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just dont get it.

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Usually brP6es but br6es are ok. The "P" is an indicator for "extended tip" and the higher the number the COLDER the plug is. My question, LOL, is...why did you buy 8? :)
 
So i had some spars...LOL i am also a drag racer. This was suppose to be my street/race car. Then i wrecked my truck and it put this car into rush mode.. havent been to work in over a week.. really sucks
 
Well ive made up my mind.. this motor is coming out. There was a broke off exhaust stud causeing #1 cylinder to leak almost all the way around. Then i notice there is a little circular shape tear in the timing belt meaning it is gonna have to come apart soon either way.. those are the 2 final nails in this motors coffin.. here i go with late nights motor swapin.. in and running by monday morning... challege accepted... wish me luck....
 
Well ive made up my mind.. this motor is coming out. There was a broke off exhaust stud causeing #1 cylinder to leak almost all the way around. Then i notice there is a little circular shape tear in the timing belt meaning it is gonna have to come apart soon either way.. those are the 2 final nails in this motors coffin.. here i go with late nights motor swapin.. in and running by monday morning... challege accepted... wish me luck....
good luck hopeing everything goes well Dont forget the beer! or weed... hah jk
 
Can someone post a pick of the lower rear bell housing bolt. I cant figure it out. Threads are in the block and no way to go the other way with bolt...
 
That's a bolt that threads into the transmission. It's slightly smaller and is necessary. Once you have the engine out, you will see what size you need. Make sure you put one back, keeps the transmission from separating from the block, and keeps the clutch/flex plate aligned with the transmission.
 
It's easy to miss since it comes in from the back side under the starter.
 
My daily driver of about 12 years now has a crack across the manifold and a broken exhaust stud for #1. Also being a 14b the 6cm turbine housing is cracked but the car runs good and spools fine. The cracks and broken stud have been like that for 3-4 years now.

Make sure that small motor mount bolt is the right size, if its too long and bottoms out it will break or punch into the transmission case. Previous owner of one of one of my cars put a longer bolt in. Its also a pita to drill out when its broke off.
 
I dont think its a motor problem. If you put a new motor in and it runs differently ill be surprised. Your biggest clue is the black plugs.
 
So im taking things apart and cleaning before install on mew motor and i find..
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Wich i believe is controlled by this??
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Why would this be putting all that gunk in there? How can you check this oart to know if its bad?
 
Yea that's your egr valve it basically reroutes exhaust gases back into your intake. I'm sure it was leaking pretty bad to have done that much exhaust build up. If you don't need emissions it's worth removing it with a egr block off plate. If you need to keep it just buy a egr gasket and make sure the bolts are tight and the correct vacuum hose is hooked up.
 
If the regulator isnt raising pressure properly it still wont run right. You need to verify thats good first. Also unplug the MAF and see if it makes any difference. Just as a way to eliminate that. Also the coolant temp sensor can go bad, make sure its not bad
 
So im taking things apart and cleaning before install on mew motor and i find..
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Wich i believe is controlled by this??
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Why would this be putting all that gunk in there? How can you check this oart to know if its bad?
Should have stated the first pic close up is of port inside intake right behind the throttle plate
 
Compression test it. Its one of the easiest ways to get a look see in side your motor without having to tear into it. What about your idle air control valve or a relay sensor.. I'm just trying to check off all the easy stuff before it gets expensive
 
The motor that i had in it i discovered had a oil leak by oil filter housing behind timing case and had a crack in timing belt was gonna need serious work soon anyway so i am changing the motor back out. Im hoping that it was a ecu malfunction as i did have to switch ecu for the problem motor to run wich made other things in car act up.. with the motor im putting in now i will be able to go back to original ecu that came in the car. Since i had to switch most of the sensors on problem motor to match my wiring harness plugs im hoping making it all original again will fix the issue.. if my luck holds true it prolly wont fix anything.... LOL
 
Should have sent the ecu out for rebuild...and just drove the car as is to work.
 
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