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Placed my @Archer Fabrications order this morning for short route intercooler piping. Already a good experiance as I checked out and didn't notice a shipping cost overcharge. Kyle, on the other hand, was on top of that shit and within 15 minutes of the order had reached out to me and issued a 300 and some change refund. It appears I clicked worldwide on shipping. Awesome dude.
 
Not much to update at this time.
Building a second cylinder head and going to swap out my current one once I'm done. Early on I made a few cheap mistakes that I'm going to correct. I also snapped a fuel rail bolt and I really want to get it out and have failed. So. New head. Performance partout is supplying the new head and extremepsi gave me all the supporting parts. Gunna give the head a quick port and polish but anyone who has ever done porting knows "quick" means like 12 hours of work.
Lastly, gunna finish running the power wires that I have been avoiding doing for some reason, installed.the ets intercooler, @Archer Fabrications is making me some intercooler piping that will go on, and lastly throw the ecu back in and give the key a turn.
Earlier this year I had redone must of the wiring in the car so let's hope the main 60amp fuse from B+ can stop blowing at key on.
 
Head is dropped off at the machine shop. This place is nuts. Trophies everywhere. Crazy CNC everything. Apparently they build and race new GTRs. And it's weirdly secluded. I attached a photo of the place. Not even a sign. With that, they have a rediculous hourly rate. 135 an hour. Woof. Place is called Larry's auto machine in CT.
Anyway, head is getting cleaned and they are removing a broken bolt. Broken bolt is hourly and they say it should only take a half hour but if I get a 300 dollar bill for 1 bolt I'm going to be pissed.
Yeah yeah yeah. Pay to play. Still expensive.
20210419_124332.jpg
 
Few things have happened. Today I recieved the coolant resevuare (misspelled I know) that I ordered from Vamos Fab. Very high quality peice designed to fit perfectly with the intercooler piping that archer fab has shipped to me today.
I also shipped my cylinder head off to MAPerformance to be rebuilt. The head has a quality pocket port done to it and they are going to be doing all the typical head machine work aswell as new bronze ferrea valve guides, ferrea 6000 stainless valves, and a valve job. All freshly machined and assembled. Ready for me to slap my cams in and send it.
 
Alright. I'll admit it. I'm a little nervous. My head is in a different state and I'm nervous. At a shop I have never had anything worked on for alot of money and I'm nervous. Hope this goes well. First time I have had my shit worked on like this. I have always done everything myself or local.
 
So a chunk of time has gone by. My head got back within 2 weeks and was immaculate. If you are on the fence about sending a head to maperformance, don't be nervous. They do good work.
Just about everything is installed now. I'm currently waiting on a coupling to come in from Amazon and then oil and coolant which I'm picking up today. Them I have to run a few grounds and try to start.
We shall see this weekend if my car comes alive or blows up in my garage. View attachment 631576View attachment 631577View attachment 631578View attachment 631579View attachment 631580View attachment 631581View attachment 631582
 
**electrical problem has entered the chat**

I have been having an electrical issue for a few months now. That's why I was so excited about gave power and no fire. With excitement didn't last long as the issue reappeared the next day. Here is a link to the thread where I am working that out with some members

 
Well excitement is back.
Long story short, the car was experancing a voltage dip. It was explained to me that somewhere along the line, my car was pulling enough amps to hit the limit of what my battery could provide dipping the voltage. The car reacted as such. This only happened at key on. I unplugged everything in the ignition circuit and cycled power over an over again. Never found the issue. Plugged everything back in and changed the battery, and like magic, the problem is now gone. So it was ether a loose connection or a bad battery. Ether way, it is gone and im glad.

Knock on wood.

So tomorrow I'm pumping some of the old gas out of the tank, pouring a splash of the new gas in there and going to test for leaks in my fuel lines and hopefully have enough time to work through my pre-first-start checklist and let her rip.

Cross your fingers....
 
Nice car. Injectors are somewhat controlled by the CAS so maybe try another or test it?
I'm going to rent a noid light first before I start swapping parts. If I'm not getting spark too then i know for sure it's the cas or cps.
If I have spark then I have a feeling the injectors may be clogged in which case I'm going to test with the noid lights and see if im getting signal to the injector themselves.
If the noid light doesn't flash then I will know it's a wiring fault.
I know the the ECU is sending the signal via injOn as a logged value in ecmlink which tells me that the cas and cps are sending a signal (may be a bad signal) at the very least.
We shall see. Easy diagnosis at this point. Progress all the same though.
 
It's during the week so I never really feel up to working on the car during the weekdays. But, I have tested for spark and I do infact have spark.
So really I'm down to seeing with the noid light if my injectors are getting power and if so the issue is the injectors.
 
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