The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support STM Tuned

Street Build Junkyard GST

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Lastly im getting my valve cover made by Mike over at Buschur Racing. He does a little side thing on his own outside of Buschure and he does some really unique stuff with OEM valve covers. Obviously he welds in fittings, new baffles, and powdercoat just like everyone else but he also does a billet oil threaded cap. I have never seen it let alone for the price he does it for. Here is the video he linked to me to show what the cap looks like.


Let me know once you get a price on this. I'm possibly intrested
 
I got an update on the valve cover. Should be at powder coat now. Im still waiting on a rear sway bar. Also ordered a few little things. I got the middle and top timing covers finally. Also go all my vaccum lines and fittings in. And a alternator belt in an attempt to remedy this awful squeak at startup.
 
FINALLY found a rear sway bar. Should be on the way here on Monday. Once that goes in I can finish the exhaust, valve cover and pvc and then first start on the new build.
 
FINALLY found a rear sway bar. Should be on the way here on Monday. Once that goes in I can finish the exhaust, valve cover and pvc and then first start on the new build.

Which sway bar did you go with? I have been looking for one as well but fitment has been a issue in the past
 
A few days after this was first start. Kenny Kline helped quite a bit with this. He helped me understand everything I needed to do in Link to get this think to crank over. After playing around with deadtime a bit, it cranked over and started for the first time. It was very very lean and I didnt know what I was doing at all in Link but it was running and that is what mattered to me at the time.


Lol. I bought my full v3 Ecmlink + Speed Density package from Kenny Kline just like a week ago
 
Lol. I bought my full v3 Ecmlink + Speed Density package from Kenny Kline just like a week ago
He is a good guy. He has been around a long time. I think since the beginning. Can be a little abrasive sometimes but that adds to the kenny experience LOL LOL. I advise paying attention to absolutely everything he says. Extremely knowledgeable.
 
Last part is here. Valve cover. Home stretch. Now all I need is a few days of working on it and im all set to start it up.
20200919_133031.jpg
 
26x9x15 hoosier qtp and I dont know what you mean by that. Im pretty new to drag racing so maybe I just don't know the term.
Cheater slicks have grooves cut in the center so they can get a little traction off the strip. Regular drag slicks are completely smooth. I can see why he's asking, there are 2 lines across your tires. I think those are just mold marks and will wear off though.
 
Cheater slicks have grooves cut in the center so they can get a little traction off the strip. Regular drag slicks are completely smooth. I can see why he's asking, there are 2 lines across your tires. I think those are just mold marks and will wear off though.
Then they are cheater slicks. Definatly 2 grooves down the center
 
Cheater slicks have grooves cut in the center so they can get a little traction off the strip. Regular drag slicks are completely smooth. I can see why he's asking, there are 2 lines across your tires. I think those are just mold marks and will wear off though.

Exactly. I also asked because I want to buy some DOT cheater slicks :hellyeah:
 
Well tomorrow is the big day. I have to wire a map sensor, run vacuum lines, pump in oil to prime the new turbo, and adjust a few sensors. Then connect power, make sure there isn't an electrical fire LOL, and check for fuel leaks. Then crank it over and see if it starts. Tomorrow is the big day.
 
Well tomorrow is the big day. I have to wire a map sensor, run vacuum lines, pump in oil to prime the new turbo, and adjust a few sensors. Then connect power, make sure there isn't an electrical fire LOL, and check for fuel leaks. Then crank it over and see if it starts. Tomorrow is the big day.

A couple of suggestions if I may. Not sure if the engine has been rebuilt or if it's been sitting for awhile but I would suggest some "Stabil Fogging Oil" you remove the spark plugs, and spray for 3 sec into each cylinder. It lubricates it for first starts or people who have had it sitting for awhile. Also just pull the engine fuse and crank the engine for a bit. This should build up oil pressure for you. Then pop it back in and your good to go. Keep us posted
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top