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Josephine Spyder GST

ipWitan

Proven Member
36
9
May 31, 2022
MARBLEHEAD, Massachusetts
Starting very small. I polished the front headlights with a 3m polishing kit. Next, I replaced the stock halogens with Sylvania Silver halogens, high and low beams. Since I had to remove the air intact to install one of the bulbs, this was my first modification to a car.

For the initial inspection, a mechanic replaced the plugs and wires, cleaned injectors, and performed a general tune up. Runs great right now. A few other basics will be addressed in the next few weeks. I have read the technical, maintenance, and repair manuals for a better understand of the systems. Good start for a noob.
 

ipWitan

Proven Member
36
9
May 31, 2022
MARBLEHEAD, Massachusetts
The car has a mystery battery drain. A mechanic with whom my father spoke believed that something related to the emissions was causing a metal plate to heated and not turning off (or come on randomly). As a result, over night the battery can be completely drained. I cannot figure out what that would be exactly as Google and the manuals have not confirmed such a device. I will ask the group about this problem when my probationary status is lifted. The car gets hooked to a trickle charger each night.
 

DogWhistle

Supporting VIP
832
356
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
Nice looking car. Be sure to fill out the details of the car in your profile so we can better help you with questions. Has the timing belt ever been replaced? Even with low miles, a 23 year old belt is on borrowed time.

We had an electrical drain in our Spyder as well. I was able to trace it to the driver’s door lock module. There are a number of possibilities for electrical drain, but you are getting good advice on your other thread.

The leds under the headlights make your car look bedazzled, LOL. You can always turn your fog lamps into DRLs if you want to change.
 

EclipseOfTheHeart97

Probationary Member
14
3
May 22, 2022
Santa Clarita - Los Angeles, California
The car has a mystery battery drain. A mechanic with whom my father spoke believed that something related to the emissions was causing a metal plate to heated and not turning off (or come on randomly). As a result, over night the battery can be completely drained. I cannot figure out what that would be exactly as Google and the manuals have not confirmed such a device. I will ask the group about this problem when my probationary status is lifted. The car gets hooked to a trickle charger each night.
You have to do a battery draw test. I believe it involves disconnecting the negative off the battery and connecting a volt meter between the terminal and the negative wire.
On milliamp setting, this will give you a reading of the amperage draw for whatever components are drawing from the battery with the car off. At this point, you would start removing fuses (and reinstalling each so as to not loose track) until you find the fuse that disconnects whatever component is creating this mystery amperage draw/drain. This will help you isolate/identify the mystery component. Make sure you don't start the car with the volt meter connected like this though, as this will literally fry the volt meter....so I've heard.
Hope this helps. You can google or you tube "battery draw test"
 

ipWitan

Proven Member
36
9
May 31, 2022
MARBLEHEAD, Massachusetts
One of the problems with the phantom drain is that, as I was told, the draw comes on sporadically. Does it even make sense that there is some sort of emissions heating element that can turn on (and stay on).
 

ipWitan

Proven Member
36
9
May 31, 2022
MARBLEHEAD, Massachusetts
Stereo update finished. Sounds pretty good. Louder than I can handle, and it bumps. Since there isn't much info on stereo installs, I will give full account.

Kenwood DMX4707 ($379)
Phoenix Gold RX 6.5 with separate tweeter (front doors/dash) ($320)
Rockfort Fosgate TMS69 6x9 (rears) ($400)
JL Audio 12w6v3d4 (DYI sealed, 11.5D x 14H x 16.5L) ($880)
Phoenix Gold MX800w 5 channel ($580)
Backup camera ($250)

The system was professionally installed. I choose the Kenwood based on features and price point. It has andriod auto (wired), and BT 4.1. It seems to work fine. I would have preferred a dial or physical button to adjust volume as the deck is somewhat hard to see and reach, so tactile response would be nice. The deck is impossible to see in direct light.

Speaker fronts were based on his recommendation. He installed 6.5 in door and tweeter in dash. The Rockfort Fosgates were selected because no other speaker fits in the back. These are made for a Harley saddle back. The issue is that specs say a 4in deep speaker will fit but larger diameter magnets will hit the sides at 4 inches, so you need a small powerful magnet. This was a costly upgrade. I had some issues with the sub recommendations. Prefab enclosures may have worked but I had issues getting confirmation from the installer. My brother (a hobby installer) pushed me to buy this high end sub and stop dealing with regrets. If powered, this sub will shake the car. Since convertibles can be notorious for obtaining output, I went with this sub as it isn't a wrong answer - just expensive. The installer wanted a ported box. My option was to built this simple sealed box, power it, and if not enough, build a ported box. The car definitely bumps, but if a ported box hits more, I may still build one. With a sealed box, I have 1/2 my trunk. The dimensions were altered from JL Audio specs but are still the correct volume. An ideal box would be trapezoidal, ported, and take almost all of the trunk, per JL Audio vented specs.

The amp was selected by the installer. It fits under the seat. I grossly overpaid for the backup camera. But it does work and has a wide field of view. As noted, you cannot see the screen in full sun rendering it pointless sometimes.

The system is very loud. I am still figuring out how to adjust the sound field to maximize bass output without distortion to the rears and fronts. Crossing over everything sounds easier than it is. The installer altered the gains to make the fronts and rears match, and selected amp controlled crossovers. The sound is very different between standing still and driving at 40 miles per hour, all with the top down. With the top up, it sounds incredible.

For improvements, maybe adding a dedicated amp for the sub and powering the hell out of it. I don't need that and it would cost another $300-400 and take up more room in the trunk.

So far, the car doesn't seem to rattle too much. I feared that the windows and/or the trunk would vibrate like crazy. The box / speaker is facing forward, per the installer who tested both options. The lights dim a little on very loud bass heavy music. Right now, it isn't an issue but could be. The installer recommended a capacitor...and a better battery.

The radio reception is terrible. I am planning to take it back to the installer to make sure he hooked up the power correctly. The antennae doesn't extend all the way (it didn't before either), but the old radio had far better reception. Maybe I need a new power antennae.
 
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