johnny racecar's fmic, who has one?

[Agent11br]

98spydert - any news on that write up/vfaq you were working on?

Just curious

 

[Turbocharged]

Wow 30 pages now.
I've boosted 16psi on my T-25 and it feels perfect. I noticed when comparing my DSMLink logs between the smic and the fmic, that my intake temp has dropped at LEAST 20 degrees.

Why do you guys keep saying that you intake temps dropped xx degrees after the fmic install? Do you have an intake temp gauge that reads temperature AFTER the intercooler? If your refering to the intake temperature that a data logger/dsmlink gives you... thats just the outside ambient temperature (under your hood) as read by the MAF. Your intercooler setup WILL NOT change the temperature of the air before the turbo. Any decrease in the temps read by a datalogger after a fmic install are purely coincidental.

If you are seeing a 20 degree decrease in intake temps, its because the ambient temperature is 20 degrees cooler than your previous run.

Which brings me to this question. Does anyone with this fmic have a post intercooler intake temp sensor? If so, what kind of temps are you seeing? Ive already purchased a different intercooler, but I am still interested in this things performance.

 

[Stoner]

I dont think that anyone will have that kind of setup with this core. But I can say that on 20-21psi the outlet pipe coming out of the core is very cold as the inlet is very hot so it seems to be working well. I am on a evo3b16g by the way.

Once summer gets here I think we should start a new thread with 1/4 mile times with this core. I wish I could do it now but the track doesnt open until late March. I have run more boost than before this upgrade and gotten a DSM Link Estimated 320 whp out of it. The car feels a lot better (butt dyno) than before. But that is all the info I can give for now.

 

[elementalwindx]

Why do you guys keep saying that you intake temps dropped xx degrees after the fmic install? Do you have an intake temp gauge that reads temperature AFTER the intercooler? If your refering to the intake temperature that a data logger/dsmlink gives you... thats just the outside ambient temperature (under your hood) as read by the MAF. Your intercooler setup WILL NOT change the temperature of the air before the turbo. Any decrease in the temps read by a datalogger after a fmic install are purely coincidental.

If you are seeing a 20 degree decrease in intake temps, its because the ambient temperature is 20 degrees cooler than your previous run.

Which brings me to this question. Does anyone with this fmic have a post intercooler intake temp sensor? If so, what kind of temps are you seeing? Ive already purchased a different intercooler, but I am still interested in this things performance.

Does it matter that the temp outside and humidity, and time of day were almost exactly the same if not off by maybe 5 degrees at most? Sorry I dont bother to put an intake temp sensor in my intake heh.

 

[JessesTalon]

Why do you guys keep saying that you intake temps dropped xx degrees after the fmic install? Do you have an intake temp gauge that reads temperature AFTER the intercooler? If your refering to the intake temperature that a data logger/dsmlink gives you... thats just the outside ambient temperature (under your hood) as read by the MAF. Your intercooler setup WILL NOT change the temperature of the air before the turbo. Any decrease in the temps read by a datalogger after a fmic install are purely coincidental.

If you are seeing a 20 degree decrease in intake temps, its because the ambient temperature is 20 degrees cooler than your previous run.

Which brings me to this question. Does anyone with this fmic have a post intercooler intake temp sensor? If so, what kind of temps are you seeing? Ive already purchased a different intercooler, but I am still interested in this things performance.

well if you have a maf-t and you put it where ppl normally put it... (after the IC) then it does read temps going into the intake manifold...






Thats how I did it... and found my temps dropping quite a from smic to fmic...

 

[vinh766]

i didn't get a shot to take at look at it w/ my stock smic, but w/ my readings off of my Maf-T, i got a difference of about 7-9 degrees difference between my JRC intercooler and my supra MK4 stock SMIC. from my stock to the supra felt like night and day of a difference, and from my supra smic to the JRC felt like, night and HOLY SHIT! iono bout u guys, but i run this on a big 16g setups at 21 psi and it is freezing cold on the outlet side of it. i have 2.5 inch piping to and from it. i love this intercooler, and the whole setup, like i posted like 50 posts back, costed me 400 for the core + licp + piping to the turbo. gotta love that.

 

[90CherryTSI]

I've been thinking about buying the coolingmist digital air temp gauge and mounting it in my TB elbow. I just installed the water/meth injection (single stage for now until I get the FMIC in then DS). I'm almost curious enough to spend the $80 to see the drop. It'd also be a good alarm that the jug is out of water. I could run the test on with/without water to see the temps, before/after FMIC, then before/after dual stage water. It's got to be a big jump in each of the categories, just figure the surface area to cool air stock vs FMIC, not to mention the piping. Hrm....nobody run any tests like this yet?

 

[blackGSX2g]

well if you have a maf-t and you put it where ppl normally put it... (after the IC) then it does read temps going into the intake manifold...






Thats how I did it... and found my temps dropping quite a from smic to fmic...

The GM sensor doesn't measure intake temps...its just set constant at like 80* so your ECU is happy.

 

[blackGSX2g]

I've been thinking about buying the coolingmist digital air temp gauge and mounting it in my TB elbow. I just installed the water/meth injection (single stage for now until I get the FMIC in then DS). I'm almost curious enough to spend the $80 to see the drop. It'd also be a good alarm that the jug is out of water. I could run the test on with/without water to see the temps, before/after FMIC, then before/after dual stage water. It's got to be a big jump in each of the categories, just figure the surface area to cool air stock vs FMIC, not to mention the piping. Hrm....nobody run any tests like this yet?

They have digital water temp gauges on eBay for like $20 that measure from like -30ish up to like 350ish. Thats what I was planning on getting before I put the FMIC on.

 

[90CherryTSI]

what's the difference between an "air temp gauge" and water temp gauge? Does it really matter which you use for measuring air temp? Wasn't sure if something would/could "burn up" if a water temp gauge wasn't in water...

 

[98spydert]

98spydert - any news on that write up/vfaq you were working on?

Just curious

I didn't know I was working on one :laugh: I think someone else was working on the how-to write up, the guys with the 2G and GVR4 who did the install.

I said I'd get some DSMLink logs up but the machine shop that rebuilt my head screwed up and my valve seals are leaking like crazy... go figure

I did make a few untuned logs when I first installed DSMLink and I've logged 40 lbs/min on the evo 16G @ ~19psi while on 91 pump. I'm getting a Greddy electronic boost gauge this saturday so I can log boost using DSMLink, then as soon as someone over on the DSMLink forums finds a good IAT sensor we can use, I'll log intake temp at the throttle body elbow also. It all takes time though

I'd be afraid of using a cheap ebay IAT sensor or a water temp gauge to measure air temp on a forced induction car. The sensors that are being looked at over at the DSMLink forums are rated as being able to measure 66% of the total air temp change in >15 seconds. When we're changing hundreds of degrees in seconds, we need something faster than that. Also water has about 24 times the thermal conductivity as air so a sensor made to measure water temp changes probably won't be designed to to do the same with air. Compressed air has a higher thermal conductivity but still not has high as water. When I find out what sensor to use, I'll let you guys know. So far the only decent one I've seen was mentioned above, the coolingmist set up. I really don't want to pay that much for the gauge though when I can just log it with DSMLink.

 

[elementalwindx]

Me (Greg) and FWD98GST (Ion) are working on the write up for 2g's. I've been waiting for him to get back up w/ me about the parts he edited and changed but he hasn't been online in like a week I think.

 

[Agent11br]

cool, I'm excited to see it

 

[kevingst]

I finally got mine done. I got lazy and bought the Dejon Tool intake pipe and turbo j pipe. I've had the Dave B. uicp for awhile now. I would've liked to have done the passenger side pipes differently, but the uicp didn't really allow for it. I've enjoyed the Dave. B. pipe, but I think it's time to move on to something else. I ended up not using my rre pipes (the old ones from the 16g/14b kit), they were pretty thin. I was having enough problems burning through the 16ga. pipes. I still haven't boost checked the car yet. I'll wait till tomorrow when it's light out... in case anything pops off. Can't wait to get a log on DSMLink and see if my 4k+ knock has gone away. Anyway, I now present the dirtiest engine bay and probably one of the most ragged out cars on this site. But I keep it runnin'

 

[elementalwindx]

I finally got mine done. I got lazy and bought the Dejon Tool intake pipe and turbo j pipe. I've had the Dave B. uicp for awhile now. I would've liked to have done the passenger side pipes differently, but the uicp didn't really allow for it. I've enjoyed the Dave. B. pipe, but I think it's time to move on to something else. I ended up not using my rre pipes (the old ones from the 16g/14b kit), they were pretty thin. I was having enough problems burning through the 16ga. pipes. I still haven't boost checked the car yet. I'll wait till tomorrow when it's light out... in case anything pops off. Can't wait to get a log on DSMLink and see if my 4k+ knock has gone away. Anyway, I now present the dirtiest engine bay and probably one of the most ragged out cars on this site. But I keep it runnin'

Looks like your paint went on better than mine. I should have used 2 90deg bends on my driver side to go around the radiator and all that like you did, instead of a simple U bend cut in half and supported by a radiator coupling. Good job man Time for a new sig pic. Interesting way u have your turboxs flange/adaptors hooked up.

 

[coltboostin]

Couple of things

KevinGST- I think if you went through all that work that you should have sold the flange adapter and purchased a weld on bung for the Turbo xs valve. I would look, and actually perform better.

TO ALL-I noticed that most, if not all of you are using mild steel piping, I hope you guys painted, or had coated the INSIDE of your plumbing, because that shit will rust, even the aluminized stuff, and rust much faster then you would believe.

 

[Stoner]

Couple of things


TO ALL-I noticed that most, if not all of you are using mild steel piping, I hope you guys painted, or had coated the INSIDE of your plumbing, because that shit will rust, even the aluminized stuff, and rust much faster then you would believe.

How would you coat the inside of the pipes? And I have had my homemade UICP (aluminized) on for over a year and its still clean on the inside, we will see how long it lasts.

 

[kevingst]

I've had my rre pipes and the DaveB. pipes on for at least 3 years now. They're all mild steel, and all looked fine on the inside. The rre pipes were somewhat rusty on the outside where the powdercoating had come off, but that's it. I don't know how Dave B. does his pipes now, but back when I got the pipe he only offered 1g or 2g flange. I forgot my reasoning, but I chose the 1g flange. I've already stated I need a new uicp, if I decide to change the bov setup...then so be it. As far as appearance, that's purely a matter of opinion. And PLEASE, someone explain to me how going to a different mounting adapter would make it work better. Because I could've sworn that for the past 3+ years it's been working just perfectly. Coltboostin', do you have any sort of testing to back this stuff up or do you just like throwing your penny thoughts around?

 

[coltboostin]

I've had my rre pipes and the DaveB. pipes on for at least 3 years now. They're all mild steel, and all looked fine on the inside. The rre pipes were somewhat rusty on the outside where the powdercoating had come off, but that's it. I don't know how Dave B. does his pipes now, but back when I got the pipe he only offered 1g or 2g flange. I forgot my reasoning, but I chose the 1g flange. I've already stated I need a new uicp, if I decide to change the bov setup...then so be it. As far as appearance, that's purely a matter of opinion. And PLEASE, someone explain to me how going to a different mounting adapter would make it work better. Because I could've sworn that for the past 3+ years it's been working just perfectly. Coltboostin', do you have any sort of testing to back this stuff up or do you just like throwing your penny thoughts around?

Simply put, it will flow more air. I have seen 2g's with decent sized turbos going from having surge problems to little to no surge from switching form the adapter. Have never had experience with an adapted TXS on a 1g, but I imagine it would not be much different.

As far as rust, well, you live in Cali, so it may not be a problem for you. I used to always use mild piping on intercooler plumbing until I saw some horrid looking (inner) piping off of cars that have one had the piping in question for 6 months to a year, but the worst case cars were winter driven, so Im sure that contributed.

I think that anything, even a light coat of paint inside the pipe would help. Also, power coating would have no issue sticking to the inside of a pipe.

 

[Bostedquest]

Sorry, but what is the sellers ID on ebay that is selling these...
I read about haf these posts, and have heard several names, but no Ebay ID's... the one link posted on the first page was over 90 days ago and no info can be found from that link...

is it tjn115 ? that is the closest looking one with the same demensions... after a while they just all look the same...

 

[Stoner]

Go here for the intercooler being discussed in this thread. He is now selling directly from his site, and I dont know if he is using ebay anymore.

And about the rusting pipes, how would winter driving affect the inside of the pipes? Or were you just refering to the outside?

 

[elementalwindx]

Sorry, but what is the sellers ID on ebay that is selling these...
I read about haf these posts, and have heard several names, but no Ebay ID's... the one link posted on the first page was over 90 days ago and no info can be found from that link...

is it tjn115 ? that is the closest looking one with the same demensions... after a while they just all look the same...

You are correct, it is tjn115. Link on his homepage shows it.

 

[98spydert]

TO ALL-I noticed that most, if not all of you are using mild steel piping, I hope you guys painted, or had coated the INSIDE of your plumbing, because that shit will rust, even the aluminized stuff, and rust much faster then you would believe.

I used Aluminized steel piping and never coated it. It's fine, no sign or rust inside or out. That's the whole point of using the aluminzed stuff over the regular mild steel.

 

[trebornash]

Yo Stoner,sounds like you've worked in muff shop before. I bent my UICP
outta 2.5 alluminized. We stopped using regular steel tubing a decade ago. Rusts out too quick and is way too heavy.

 

[97gstblack]

I just recently installed the 30x7x3 on my 97 eclipse. Guysat JRC are awesome and will work with you, they sent instructions on install also.
Some things that i think suxs is that you have to reloop your powersteering which im confused on, so i didnt. I guess if you do theres less trimming on bumper but if you dont reloop it youll have to cut your bumper quite a bit, but not that much maybe a good 1.5-2 inch.(dremmel work perfect for me)
Another is that it seems like all the pipes are just slightly short an inch, it fits but your pipes have to be perfectly lined up. I had to go buy some straight radaitor pipe to get my J pipe to attach to its attaching pipe.
If they would of made the core 1 more inch it would take complete view of the core with seeing no endtanks.

Other then that the frontmount is perfect, i got a great deal on mine new. Unless you plan on running something bigger then a 50 trim I would say this fmic is fine. Some of you may of had a better time installing yours but that was my experience, took maybe 2 hrs.
What I like the most is being able to keep the reinforment bar!

my .02