The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support ExtremePSI

jdm 4g36 swapped into 91 talon

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

iblewUpMyDSM

Probationary Member
10
0
Jun 18, 2014
Regina, SK_Canada
so about a month ago i destroyed my old 4g63 and swapped in a jdm 6 bolt from idk what car. now i know jdm engines have different sensors and such so i used absolutely every sensor and manifold from my old 4g and just used the jdm shortblock. started the car and ran perfectly fine first startup. I have a video to prove its first start LOL. so i let the car idle up to temp and its running perfectly fine, i then go to drive it, 3 blocks down the road it starts running pig rich like 9;1. Now everytime i start it cold or warm its pig rich same 9;1 and sounds like its running on 2 cylinders at 600rpm. I can't drive the car because the throttle does nothing.. just dumps more gas and the car dies. it doesn't build proper vacuum it varies wildly between -7 and -11 and i know the car has no vacuum leaks at all.. I'm stumped as to what would cause this because the car ran perfectly fine on first startup and even idleing at temp before its first drive it was totally okay! Oh and one more thing. I unplugged the maf while it was idleing rich at 600rpm and the rpm's shoot to 2k and the car runs really lean like 19:1 but sounds like its running on all cylinders and the throttle is now responsive. Any help as to why this is happening?? thank you!
 
I would look for a coupler blown off on the intercooler piping and do a boost leak test before doing anything.
 
all cupplers and are on and tight. so that couldn't be the cause
 
cupples aren't split and all clamps are tight, i"ll do the boost leak test tomorrow becuase it makes sense, but besides piping leaks any other ideas? because i mean it running the way it does you'd think the piping would have to be totally disconnected.
 
I would do the leak test, than reset the ecu by unhooking the battery since you had the maf unooked. Than run it for a little bit and check for codes.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top