Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

[Justin DuBois]

Your progress never ceases to amaze me. Car looks immaculate!

Thank you!

 

[Justin DuBois]

Don’t take my word for it, Ask my teenager:

 

[CrackedDSM]

Don’t take my word for it, Ask my teenager:

Love it. My daughter says “weeee” when I hit boost in the edge. My goal is to get her addicted to boost in the talon too. Love it.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I think this is telling me, the E3o2 housing is flowing, the Boost and Lean AFR relative to targets are cooralated. Previous to this mod, the tune was aligned, (richer). The current result is giving a WideBand factor of 10% Lean, so I'm going to start with a global fuel adjust - split the difference +5% and see what that does.
View attachment 697489

After a global fuel adjustment from -11.7 to 0.00, It went a little too far, but the knock is under better control:

 

[Justin DuBois]

Bench parts:
Back from RC, some 1000cc injectors- clean and balanced. These should back down the 100% IDC so that I can use more of the airflow the DP and 02 housing are providing.

Shopping for a fuel pump.

Also on the bench is the bigger turbo back from jusMX141. The assembled cartridge spins well now, and I’m super curious about how the behavior will change, and what kind of top end flow I can get with and extended tip 20G billet compressor.

Should be interesting

 

[Justin DuBois]

More bench porn

 

[Justin DuBois]

I’d prefer this open more. Is this a normal amount?

 

[Justin DuBois]

The threads on the Alt stripped out, so now I have a long bolt, lock washer, washer, and a flange nut. No more slipping alt tension!

 

[BeatupVR4]

I hate when those strip out!

I mostly ground down the spikes on one of these and drilled out the stripped threads for a press fit from the back. This way loosening it is still a 1 wrench operation

I also had a buddy put a shoulder bolt in that location and then just put a jam nut on the tensioner bolt. Worked good too.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I hate when those strip out!

I mostly ground down the spikes on one of these and drilled out the stripped threads for a press fit from the back. This way loosening it is still a 1 wrench operation

View attachment 705182

I also had a buddy put a shoulder bolt in that location and then just put a jam nut on the tensioner bolt. Worked good too.

One wrench! You should see the pile of tools I just made pulling the lower timing cover to replace the crank sensor in the Kiggly adapter.

But, yeah. Now I need a 13mm and a 12mm to adjust the Alt belt tension.

 

[We're on Boost]

I’d prefer this open more. Is this a normal amount?

Looks wrong to me. Did you ever find out if that is on purpose? I'm surprised nobody answered here or in the other thread you started for it. Maybe it's to simulate a high duty cycle? Or to simulate a heavier spring?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Looks wrong to me. Did you ever find out if that is on purpose? I'm surprised nobody answered here or in the other thread you started for it. Maybe it's to simulate a high duty cycle? Or to simulate a heavier spring?

The WG actuator I have is off of a 14b, so it could be that. There is more movement to be had in the flapper range of motion - the actuator just isn't extending far enough. I think I need to try and locate a WG actuator more appropriate for an E3 - turbine housing. A stronger spring could also be good. There is no need to start opening before 1.0 bar.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Now that I’m back from the east coast, and had a couple days with the car, I finally figured out the issues with the Kiggly crank sensor for 6-bolt with a 2Gb CAM position sensor.

From the moment I saw the Kiggly setup, I wanted it. (so I bought 2) It is closer to what the stock ECU is looking for than anything else I’ve tried.

Mistake 1: Chinese sensors
I purchased in-expensive Chinese sensors, and they just don’t work. Period.

Mistake 2: Wiring
Before I put a 2Gb cam sensor on the head, I was trying to make a 1G blacktop CAS work for the cam signal and kiggly for the crank, but the way I powered the 1G sensor was off the crank sensor plug. When I moved the crank plug from the 1G harness to the Kiggly harness, the 1G cam sensor went un-powered, so the ECU could not fire the right sequence. Also, because the ECU is a 95, regardless of checkbox settings in ECMLink for the injector sequence, I needed to swap the coil pack trigger wire. I have a signal inverter built in to my 1G CAS harness so I would not have to do that. Turns out, the check box in ECMLink has no impact on the coil triggers (my false assumption)

So now - This 6 Bolt swap 95, is finally running with two separate sensors, like it did from the factory.

On first warmup, the idle control is improved!

Each attempt to fire with the wrong wiring, the wrong coil was triggered, and cranking was interrupted with a misfire pushing back on the starter.

While looking for details on DSMTUNERS, I was amazed how many people referenced the content I collected and posted for RRE, including the wave form study I made with the 1G and 7 bolt front case 2G sensors.

Warms my heart.

So, now full circle, I used my own research to solve my own problems. Lol

 

[19Eclipse90]

When I get time and space, I’ll be doing the same sensor setup on my ‘96.

You’re efforts with RRE are certainly valuable contributions to the community!

 

[Justin DuBois]

When I get time and space, I’ll be doing the same sensor setup on my ‘96.

You’re efforts with RRE are certainly valuable contributions to the community!

I think this is gonna be good - fingers crossed.

Also - I'm thinking how the 2Gb cam sensor and housing looks so similar to the setup on the reverse layout EVO 4G63, but unfortunately for the EVO, the sensor is on the exhaust cam and extending over the exhaust manifold where all the heat lives - heat wrap was required.

 

[19Eclipse90]

There’s no reason it shouldn’t work - I just appreciate you coming back to it as I was dumbfounded when you said it didn’t for you earlier on!


For those interested - the sensor and housing look similar to the early Evo because Mitsubishi used the same 2Gb sensor (MD327107) and housing (MB344722) in Evos up to the Evo 9 when they introduced MIVEC.

The sensor itself was common to the SOHC models of a number of vehicles, including the 3G Eclipse, Mirage, Galant, and the Outlander.

 

[Justin DuBois]

, the test drive! I got two good go fast moments, and now I can't shift.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Bit of a heart race on the freeway, when you realize the clutch feels like it works, but you can’t get neutral. Then, after you yank it into neutral, the only way to get a gear is to rev match and shove, shove again, and finally get it to crunch into gear.

Finally in the drive, it stalled in gear.

 

[We're on Boost]

Bit of a heart race on the freeway, when you realize the clutch feels like it works, but you can’t get neutral. Then, after you yank it into neutral, the only way to get a gear is to rev match and shove, shove again, and finally get it to crunch into gear.

Finally in the drive, it stalled in gear.

Did you have the pleasure of needing to stop at a red light during this experience ?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Did you have the pleasure of needing to stop at a red light during this experience ?

I was about to transition from one interstate to another, going farther away from home. Voice command to waze to re-route home, quickly showed me a way back with mostly right turn stop signs. Luck and some emergency flashers got me back on the freeway going the other way without stopping - 2nd gear. Another blip and a jump to 4th gear gets me back to the off-ramp closest to the house, then two more 2nd gear rolling stops to get to the driveway. No lights, mild traffic, and the rest I had to manage with luck.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I looked way calmer on the in-car video than I felt at the time

 

[Justin DuBois]

Trans removal:
I've managed to back the car into the garage to provide better access - I'm planning to pull the transmission on the floor, and see what the heck happened to the clutch. I suspect something fell off.

PS pump replacement:
Before disassembly, I wanted to put the pretty PS pump on to see if it is making pressure after it has been re-torqued - but no luck. It still makes little pressure when idle.

Injectors and Turbo:
On hold until I have a driving car again

Kiggly crank + 2Gb Cam position sensor:
WORKING REALLY WELL!!! I didn't think the idle control and sound of the engine would change - but it just sounds smoother. I think this is a good combo for a 2G ECU. Last log had a partial WOT pull, and I am seeing 320hp just below 4000 rpm at 19psi, after an initial peak boost of 24psi. I also found a lean spot on the SD map that I want to address right when the turbo reaches full boost. All this will have to wait now for a clutch.

 

[We're on Boost]

I suspect something fell off.

That's what it was with my 1965 Hi-Po Mustang. But with our DSMs I would suspect the slave cylinder first! Did you check that already?

 

[Justin DuBois]

That's what it was with my 1965 Hi-Po Mustang. But with our DSMs I would suspect the slave cylinder first! Did you check that already?

Yeah, the master and slave were replaced a little while back when the car was in John's shop in LA. No clutch issues on the 6hr drive home, just lately after some power tuning.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Here I have started the top work to removing the trans, referencing what was new once, VFAQ, an early concept in public group sourced documentation