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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

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E-bay has a lot of these: (cameras not dogs)
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I tend to agree, but Its a silly thing to have wheel speed sensors $250 each. This car is now a garage queen. I have more efficient rides to work, so its a weekend/track day toy now I suppose.

Its just money, you'll forget how much you spent on it after a few months. You just spent the same amount for a go pro LOL
 
Say Hi to Chris, RRE original and Muellerized crew member taking a break from working on XBOW space ships to open a package I sent with an E3-o2 manifold:
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There is a pile of parts now ready to send for prep and powder-coat. I asked for black, but these guys might make them yellow just to mess with me.
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Parts are returning,, and some assembly required. 😊
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Black parts so black, makes my dusty undercarriage look grey.

Software updates: Brent has been busy with Race Capture software updates. In the car is 2.3, and 2.4, 2.5.1 are out already. The new versions have changes to add video playback to the data analysis screens. With that, one of the guys in the forums figured out how to simulate a GoPro wifi remote control with a Race Capture Lua script! Crazy that a few lines of code can connect RC to a GoPro via WiFi. This should make syncing video to logs a lot easier.

And - while poking around on the internet I found a few Nintedo DS roms for Retro-Pie. I added few more classics to play available from the dash touch screen.
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After a bit of field testing (cough - Ski trip - cough ) I learned the used battery came with the used GoPro only lasts 1hr of continuous recording before shutting off.

And just as well, I got this all access mount and plan to power the camera from the car electrical.
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Ordered a GoPro Hero 4 silver used from e-bay to save some bank
Bastard 20G components are on their way back from Justin :hellyeah:
Motor mounts drop shipped to John...

Trying to figure out if I should delete the ABS system, or locate after market sensors cheaper than $250 each. Opinions about ABS in the Eclipse?? - It worked good for the snow, - not sure about the track. Maybe if it was working well I would not be so annoyed by it....

Thoughts? - Aaaaaaand - go!
old ABS dont work well on track, heck even the new age stuff throws a wobbly, you will have more issues overall vs removing it meaning YOU are the driver in full control not worrying if the brakes wish to work or not, i hate my modern daily abs as any slight bump when braking it kicks in and its so mega annoying and dangerous as it lets off the brakes for a split second! i am going to look at safely removing it as i much prefer a car without it,

in the DSM i dont have ABS. i can brake hard and i feel everything, more so now im dual master vs booster. you want as much feeling as you can get on the brakes and let your legs and mind do the work.

thats how i put it LOL so i vote NO abs and be a man haha

EDIT, if you really struggle to find sensors which are long gone I have some oem old ones that test out to be fine kicking about, not many but i got a few spare. incase it helps and will save a bunch of money for you, only front one i have just to note
 
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Just read through most of your thread. Amazing job!

We now have an Ohlin's option? My Koni's are really starting to limit where I want to be with spring rate and damper setting options. These ohlins look interesting.
I'm not the first - but it is custom work. TSiAWD666 had/has some variant of OHLINS.


Nice autocross vid. Those cones look sooooo small on screen. So hard to see where to go. I killed quite a few cones before going to a road course. I've never spent much time in 2nd gear. Road course is a lot of 3rd gear - track depending.
 
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Ive always heard that using poly urethane bushings in control arms can cause the bolt to bind when there is tension across the arm and the arm tries to raise, the bolt jams the movement because the metal cylinder inside the bushing catches the bolt.

Any thoughts on that? Or is that an old wives tale?
 
Ive always heard that using poly urethane bushings in control arms can cause the bolt to bind when there is tension across the arm and the arm tries to raise, the bolt jams the movement because the metal cylinder inside the bushing catches the bolt.

Any thoughts on that? Or is that an old wives tale?
That is worth some clarity -

Poly bushing upgrade in control arms pivot vs factory rubber bushings that don't

Background
The factory rubber bushings don't "pivot" The metal sleeve for the bolt in the rubber bushing is bonded as a solid part. The only "deflection" movement you get is from bending the rubber attached to the sleeve, and it acts a little like a spring. The movement you are talking about is arm movement in a direction you don't want, and the factory arms allow.

Poly bushings are an upgrade because they actually "pivot" in one direction, and do not act like a spring. The arm movement you are referring to, you don't want and is minimized.

The surfaces of the metal sleeve in contact with the poly bushing requires lubrication. The bolt and the sleeve become one part when tight, and the lubricated sleeve slides (twists) in the poly bushing giving you a smooth slop free pivot. The bolt should be tight and the sleeve and the bolt move as one. Poly bushings wear out when the lubrication dries up and the metal sleeve works on the inside with too much friction, and then it gets loose. If the arm is under load in an angle not in line with the pivot, then you are likely to have premature wear on the poly bushing. This is why arm geometry and alignment is important. Pivots only work well when the geometry isn't working against the angle of the pivot.
 
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