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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

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Yeah, ok not hard to find as an OEM part.

Riddle me this. Why can I find step studs M10x1.5 to M8x1.25 but I cannot find anywhere M10x1.25 to M8x1.25.



Justin
 
Try MiSUMi USA Thread Adapters.

I roughly chose dimensions based on what you asked for in the O2 housing to downpipe stud, but I configured part number SAB10S-40-N8-E15 that appears to be right. May reach out to ensure that the thread pitch for the M8 side would be right but I think it is.

1651861887165.png
 
Got to work with a dry scrub down onto a tarp, dawn soap spray, and then just scrub every surface, and corner to break loose the grime. The real progress was after a spray down with carburetor cleaner.
05F1AEA2-0140-48C9-A512-C25F0436BEA3.jpeg

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Now center punch - and that sure felt soft?
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Drill with left twist bit a nice small pilot hole down to 20mm total depth.
C3517397-5AF4-40F2-87BF-7CC428C7E5B2.jpeg

And what came out looks like magnetic sand
6EB6A11C-3755-40C7-907E-8B66B5B48E89.jpeg

6EF0F581-E047-407B-99E1-1E2A7E089AAC.jpeg

And I just kept stepping up the size until it was nearly all out, so I could start the Big SERT tools.
Drill, counterbore, tap
9A74DC5E-863E-428B-AACB-F290069D2312.jpeg

9240FABA-CDCC-4CA1-81A7-CEA82D0F03AF.jpeg

And then wait to install the insert until I know which insert I want, this one is if I want M10x1.25
89B71B67-33EF-4AC7-9212-2E3CE1023401.jpeg
 
Great work! I had never seen a big sert like that. Nice to know that is an option.
These are interesting. Note, they need 6mm clearance on the back side of the insert to install per the directions. This leaves one looking at 14mm deep inserts for a 20mm deep hole. I wish the design had been a little different, to get more grip at the back of the hole. I guess this is as good as it gets without removing the head and having the aluminum welded and machined. I want to look at some kind of high temp thread locker for a little extra peice of mind.
 
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Steel-It stainless steel spray paint

Back when EGT probes were a thing, and the tuning method with AFC was to find the lean setting before the EGT temps jump ( which is actually the lean setting before knock and timing is being pulled back ) I was wire brush stripping corrosion and rust from stock heat shields.

To stop the rust, I would prime the stripped metal with cold galvanizing spray, and then top coat with Stainless Steel spray paint.

I had no idea how well this would hold up - but now I do. Check out the old heat shields at the top if the image. These lasted. 10’s of years.

The middle shield is recently stripped primed and painted, and the lower shield is brand new factory part for comparison.

C920BE14-11E4-49B7-A018-E49580D4654D.jpeg

212F10BD-3AF6-45FA-9434-76C9F31538F8.jpeg
 
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Steel-It stainless steel spray paint

Back when EGT probes were a thing, and the tuning method with AFC was to find the lean setting before the EGT temps jump ( which is actually the lean setting before knock and timing is being pulled back ) I was wire bush stripping corrosion and rust from stock heat shields.

To stop the rust, I would prime the stripped metal with cold galvanizing spray, and then top coat with Stainless Steel spray paint.

I had no idea how well this would hold up - but now I do. Check out the old heat shields at the top if the image. These lasted. 10’s of years.

The middle shield is recently stripped primed and painted, and the lower shield is brand new factory part for comparison.

View attachment 661256
View attachment 661255
We would tune with those EGt gauges while listening to wu tang😎
 
Try MiSUMi USA Thread Adapters.

I roughly chose dimensions based on what you asked for in the O2 housing to downpipe stud, but I configured part number SAB10S-40-N8-E15 that appears to be right. May reach out to ensure that the thread pitch for the M8 side would be right but I think it is.

View attachment 660888
Yeah - I see how you did that. So its decision time. One of these M10x1.25 to M8x1.25 studs is $24, I got a bag of 10 - M10x1.5 to M8x1.25 studs on amazon for $12

I have both kinds of Big-SERT inserts - M10x1.5, or M10x1.25. Once the insert goes in - it's permanent (one hopes)

Still not sure which way to go. I think I need to order one and see what it is.
 
Heh, I was just proving they could be found. :cool:

I don't think I'd spend $24 for one stud unless it was my only option. Since you already have both BigSerts, I'd go with the M10x1.5 and the lower cost stud.
 
I think the idea behind that collectables site is evil - and brilliant. Buy OEM parts and put them on a shelf with a 200% price tag, and eventually (20 years later) someone will be desperate enough to buy them.

Muther#%ers

And now I am glad they exist.
Hey just curious if anyone knows which "collectibles" site he's talking about here?
 
ebay e3 manifold with one bolt snapped off, and one so stuck, it started rounding off my impact socket.

Victory 1, drilled out and tapped.
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Angle grinder takes the head off the stuck bolt
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This bolt was very hard, and I had to start with a very small drill to get a start, and one snapped, right as it punched through to the backside of the bolt. Thankfully the bit had enough sticking out of the bolt to grab with vice grip and back it out. After that it went quickly by stepping up the bit size slowly. Victory 2, the bolt backed out while drilling.
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E3s Unported / Ported
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And 150 grit planing of the flange face, by laying a full sheet of wet/dry paper face up on a metal surfaced table. Both these manifolds have a high spot in the center. By taking it down just a bit, the flange sits nearly flush everywhere with minimal shifting holding it on by hand.
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Pretty sure I know the answer but would you be willing to sell one of those e3 exhaust manifolds? I can haz? :p


I need to do that to a couple of my flanges, especially for the TB Elbow and J-pipe. I don’t trust the flatness of them at all.
 
Pretty sure I know the answer but would you be willing to sell one of those e3 exhaust manifolds? I can haz? :p


I need to do that to a couple of my flanges, especially for the TB Elbow and J-pipe. I don’t trust the flatness of them at all.
I have plans for these, so you will have to go fish!
 
Test fit Big SERT M10x1.5 with a step stud down to M8x1.25
C7D4529A-F971-4455-95D5-9C866E088027.jpeg

I think this is going to be it. Just need to decide red or green thread locker. Specs seem to say the temperature range for both is the same. Red for use before assembly, green for use after assembly.
 
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