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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

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Cold start on SD is working well - I found 2.5 sec of key on Pump prime a helpful setting to ensure a quick start when cranking.
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Factory probably accounts for a car with eventual boost leaks, dirty air filter, dirty cat, less than new compression, dirty blow-by in the whole intake system, 87 octane, a high learned knock count, etc. Just a theory. And I'm not sure how the guys at 'link derived the values on the SD table to begin with. I'll dig more into it at a later time, but 5500 was always the rule of thumb for a decently modified and healthy car. The guys out there with more extreme setups are probably higher.

The pump priming feature is super nice.
It looks like adjustments are working - I should be able to tweak in some good alignment and leave the global fuel alone.
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99 at 5000 and 91 at 5500. You're killin' me man. :]

I do like how consistent your car is. Consistency is everything. It really does look like you could get the afratioest line to be on top of your ZT-3 line. That is dream^2 stuff.
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99 at 5000 and 91 at 5500. You're killin' me man. :]

I do like how consistent your car is. Consistency is everything. It really does look like you could get the afratioest line to be on top of your ZT-3 line. That is dream^2 stuff.
Yeah, It looks like a sharp transition, but I'm just following the numbers. The AFR result is very close to linear.
Regards hyper blink on the turn signals - I have not converted to LED, so the HyperBlink is caused by a loose wire in the bulb holder. In my case, the black wire ground fell out in my hand. After stuffing it back into the bulb holder, and wedging it back where it came from, It started blinking normally.
Tuner Tip: Log single pulls, go WOT at low RPM, and get that data to align Linear WB with AFRatioEst

I'm getting close
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Started the engine after replacing the front horn, and heard something rubbing, so I shut down right away - and found the AC belt had jumped one rib off the tensioner pulley.

Thats gonna leave a mark
Fixed the AC belt, also found a small coolant drip from water neck gasket to the head. Those bolts needed to be tightened. Got another pull logged:
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A few new adjustments: With one change to the DA tables for AFR - I moved the targets from 10's to 11.0 for WOT. I'm happy to see, if I ask for 11, I nearly get 11. This is a good sign.
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E25 is responding well to 11, and I can see the knock sensor is starting to wake up.
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E25 is responding well to 11, and I can see the knock sensor is starting to wake up.
Looks pretty familiar. 5000 rpm is where my AFR hits its minimum (lowest spot on the curve) which is about 11.0 with about 11 degrees of timing, and there won't be any knock there but I might have 0.4 deg of knock retard on the run-up to it, like at 3,000 or 4,000 rpm (like you did) for short bits. Above 5,000 rpm my AFR climbs to about 12 and of course timing goes up too.
Yours and mine are pretty different setups though so I don't know how much good it does you to know that. You probably just need to keep working it per advice that's better than mine and per your own experience.

It's too bad that we can't log actual knock sensor voltage with ECMlink. That way you would see if your knock sensor is working even if you never had any knock retard. I don't know maybe you could log it with the 2g ecu (more inputs). But I think you'd have to be careful to not hook up your knock sensor to any input that has a low-ish input impedance. Would probably throw it off. In 1g world our "raw knock" number is not volts at all. It's like what we used to call knock counts. Remember that? I don't know what raw knock gives you on a 2g. I used to log actual knock sensor voltage but I was logging it with a device that had an input impedance of 1 million ohms which is probably 10 times any input we have on a DSM.

Your ziggy zaggy stuff at higher rpm - I don't exactly get what your boost control setup is. But maybe it's not good, like @DSMPT is suggesting. Maybe it's turbo surge though? Compressor surge? I notice that you've had it for a long time just like you mentioned above. I see it in the dyno sheet photo on your Specs and Photos page.
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Let's answer the boost control setup first:

EVO boost pill in a 2G:

I made this bracket because I removed the hydraulic clutch damper bracket that also has the stock boost control solenoid hanger.

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You shove the boost pill into the hose:
Mark its location with some colored shrink tube, and add a couple zip ties to keep it from moving. I used a stainless steel barbed tee to connect the hoses, and made a neat hose routing with no kinks or sharp bends.

The interesting upshot of this setup is the pneumatic bleed aspect. The logic works inverse of what I thought I knew about boost control.

With this design, to achieve maximum boost, the system leaks air through the open solenoid so that boost pressure is denied to the WG actuator. The pill is necessary to limit the flow from the boost source to a low level.

To achieve minimum boost, one simply holds the solenoid closed so that the boost source goes directly to the WG actuator, and opens as soon as spring pressure on the diaphragm is overcome. The pill acts as damper to pressure changes, to smooth out the speed the gate is opened.

For those on ECM's forum:
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Two issues today:
1. I’ve been noticing coolant dripping onto the floor, but did not see when, or from where. This time I could see it dripping at the bottom edge in the middle of the radiator when cold, but it stops when hot. (groan). I was hoping it was a loose bolt, or a loose hose clamp, but now I think I have a tiny crack or hole in the core itself.

2. Minor global fuel adjustment, and I turned boost control to Minimum boost for SD tuning and it seems like 17psi is the minimum for this setup at redline.


Still tweaking on the VE table for 11’s


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I used, for the first time, the 5v sensor GY wire at ECU Pin 81, and Sensor ground B wire at ECU Pin 92. I pull the plugs out of the ECU, and in the footwell, bring solder, shrink tube, a sharp blade, and a headlamp. I get to work pulling the pins out of the ecu harness and 3 inches back from the pin, I carefully strip away bout 3mm of insulation. Tin a small spot, wrap the bare end of the new sensor wire around it, flow as little as possible, but bond it. slide a 1" sleeve of shrink tubing over the pin and down the wire to cover the joint, shrink the tube, insert the pins, and away we go. The MDP wire had a slim blade connector on it already, so I disconnected the GM3BAR map wire, and connect the new one.

Incidentally, I think (hope) I found the leak at the upper coolant hose. That's a heck of a lot easier to fix than a radiator core.

I finished by setting up the new sensor in ECMLink, and start recording my first data with it. So far so good.
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Did something improve that I'm not seeing? It's still choppy af.
Switching to a 5bar sensor cut your resolution significantly.
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