The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

  • Join the Community!

    DSMtuners is a massive archive of DSM information - but more importantly, it's a COMMUNITY! Join in and participate with other DSMers, and invite all of your DSM friends to make this place their home. Chat with others, create a build thread, post questions and answers. Get involved! Logging in will also remove many of the advertisements, along with this notice. ;) It will also allow you to view images in threads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
724
532
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Now to start hardening the Interior trim plastic.
Before the epoxy, the smaller bits that are cracked and falling off get tacked together with superglue. The thin liquid seeps into the cracks, and improves handling for the steps ahead.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
724
532
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Got out the epoxy, ziplock bag, scissors and masking tape. Made a dam with the tape and created a valley to fill to strengthen the thin plastic support holding onto the screw mount.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Pushed some epoxy into the bag to mix:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Then I cut the corner of the bag and dispensed the mixed epoxy into the voids, and edges that could use some support
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

And a not pretty but done - support behind the plastic tabs.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Now leave it for 24hrs, and check it and hope all the epoxy has cured.
 
Last edited:

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
724
532
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Looks like pb blast in the background raging again two oreilly
Panels look better than oem
Standard stuff for DSM work

new tool
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


The price was great - not built for speed, but if you don’t have a valve spring compressor, better than nothing!

I’ll see if this will allow for a valve stem seal replacement.
 

CrackedDSM

Proven Member
1,896
558
Dec 17, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
new tool
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


The price was great - not built for speed, but if you don’t have a valve spring compressor, better than nothing!

I’ll see if this will allow for a valve stem seal replacement.

100% need the same thing done, so I’ll be waiting to see how it works out for you.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
724
532
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Pump the cylinder with compressed air through the spark plug hole and the valves should stay up. :thumb:
You ever done it with air?? If I tap on the spring to release the retainers, I'd worry that the tap would break the seal and release the pressure - allowing the valve to fall. That, and I don't have a fitting for my compression tester to put air into the piston.

I'm going to use nylon rope in the combustion chamber, and back up the rope with the piston.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
724
532
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
On the cleanup bench, I took some time with a wire brush, carb cleaner, breakclean, and good old dawn soap in water.

before
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

after
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

ok, so on the big spring clip I used red abrasive pad on a 90ged angle grinder air tool.

not shown
The arm on the old WG actuator was crusty, so I abrasive pad grinder took it back to shiny with lots of pitting. I hit it with cold galvanizing spray, and probably finish it with Steelit, and now I see the old actuator is not the actuator I will be using, because the China E3 turbine housing has a different size flapper arm pin. So no need to finish it at the moment.
 
Last edited:

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
724
532
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Ready for media blasting:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Also - just going to look under the cover and document the cam caps assembled, right before I take it apart.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

vanilla gorilla

Proven Member
675
25
Sep 11, 2007
Orrum, North_Carolina
You ever done it with air?? If I tap on the spring to release the retainers, I'd worry that the tap would break the seal and release the pressure - allowing the valve to fall. That, and I don't have a fitting for my compression tester to put air into the piston.

I'm going to use nylon rope in the combustion chamber, and back up the rope with the piston.
I use the hose from a compression tester kit. Youll have the cylinder at TDC. The piston will stop the valve if it does fall.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
724
532
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
The dental floss method works well
i don’t know this sorcery

Remove intake CAM
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


97 CAM sensor needs threads to bolt up the trigger adaptor so I drilled and tapped the end of the 1G intake CAM:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

17/64 tap drill
M8x1.25 taps - first the pointy ones, then the flat ended bottoming tap.

Lots of cutting oil, and compressed air to evacuate the shavings.
 

T bags

Proven Member
163
90
Apr 9, 2022
Newark, New_Jersey
i don’t know this sorcery
Old school small block chevy trick that works great when you don’t have a compressor. Dental floss and a good magnet worked wonders for me year ago on dsm’s. Excellent detail on the photos
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
724
532
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
successful I think 🤔
Here we continue with cam and valve work, Located a pile of new seals and gaskets:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Exaust CAM removed
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

And now turn the crank back to lower the #1 piston.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

And I fed as much rope as I could into the cylinder. Note tape is protecting the piston from the end of the long driver, being used as a visual depth gauge while messing with crank position.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I advanced the crank by hand until the piston pushed all the rope up against the valves and head, holding light pressure to prevent valve pressure from moving the crank.
This allows the valve spring compressor to push the top down releasing the retainer clips.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Down to business, old seal comes off with long pliers.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


And new seals go on, with a deep socket 10mm and hand pressure after an initial tap with a mallet.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Aw dang- see this is why we look close at the pictures. I f-ed up the one on the right. pushed it on too hard. Fixed it.

And the reverse - tricky part was getting the retainers into position with a light magnet on a stick, and getting it back inside the opening in the tool.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

All rope removed and everything timed to TDC, and then the CAMs go in. CAM guard lube.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
724
532
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Timing belt back on
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

So annoying setting the tension in the car. Trial and error finally gets it so the tensioner pin slides out smoothly.

Cover on, and now the new 97 CAM sensor housing can go on.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

CAM sensor adaptor installed
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Brick by brick - The 97 CAS fits the space better than the 1G black top CAS. This is possible to use now that a Kiggly crank sensor is installed. I'm looking forward to seeing how stable these two sensors perform.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I like this shot of the water lines
 
Last edited:

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
724
532
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Lets see the list:

Phase 1 (Exterior)
Things to locate:
2” thick 2Ga Eclipse door caps - Looking!

Body Shop:
Paint 2Ga door caps
Protective film install

Phase 2 (Engine and Interior)
Things to locate:
Grey plastic interior door switch trim - Looking!
Low profile adjustable CAM gear hardware for AEM gears (completed)
Valve spring compressor (completed)


In progress:
Hood Latch clearance (completed)
Interior Mirror Trim - epoxy reinforcement (completed)
Cyl 1 Valve guide seals (completed!)
Drill and tap 1G intake cam for 2Gb CAS (completed!)
2Gb CAS install - (completed)
Wiring for 2Gb CAS (completed)

TD05H turbo rebuild
Refinish 3" exhaust components
Front bumper brackets and misc powder coating
Hot parts refurbish (spot welding)
 
Last edited:

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
724
532
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
New sensor, new wiring harness
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


This pops up here next to the egr valve, and goes under the Intake Manifold.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

behind the engine, and over to a bracket hanging on the timing cover, 2Ga style
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


hot today
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
724
532
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
So, I am learning. The “upgrade” TD05H rebuild kit thrust washers needs a little more than the stock cartridge allows, so I’m working out how.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned VR Speed Factory

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Top