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thumper

20+ Year Contributor
91
0
Jul 17, 2002
Ubly, Michigan
Hey dsm'ers. I finally finished my rebuild this weekend. It came out alright. I have 2 minor leaks i need to fix and this problem. On my thermostat housing there is a fitting that has 2 holes one of the nipples appears to be broken off, but i'm not sure of it. I got the car not running. Now it runs so i must have done something right:thumb: Well i took 2 pics and was hoping I could get some help. I have 2 hoses that go to the TB i think that's where these go but from the inside of the housing it didn't even look like it was an opening. and i have ran the car a little bit and i don't see any coolant coming out of the nipples so??? also where would i find the wire that is suppose to go to the sensor in the first pic i can't find one under the hood loose. thanks for the help.

Edit:NM about the sensor I found it under another hose after i got looking kinda hard for it. I ran the car some more, and that piece still isn't leaking(not wet at all).
 

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the second different angle
 

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Man, I don't know either. I just put a 94 in my 97 and it has that too. Nothing comes out of it though, that's for sure so I wouldn't worry about it.
 
the hoses run to the TB as far as i know so should i just put caps over the nipples at the TB. Just like that oil return line on the intake. Thanks for the experience info it's appreciated.
 
Its an emissions device ( read completely useless ) I did exactly the same thing and broke it, but paid 22$ to replace it. It makes no difference on or off. Trash it.
 
Looking at the emissions schematic, it looks like it's part of the vacuum system. Wouldn't having that end open make something malfunction elsewhere in the vacuum schematic?

There are two splitters attached to that plastic piece that's on the water filler neck, which have two hoses (each) coming out of them and they snake out all over the vacuum system... wouldn't that leave an open end in the vacuum system? Does that open need to be closed off? Is emissions/vacuum system just using heat from water, in order to function properly in cold climates? Doesn't that run to fuel pressure control solenoid valve eventually?

I'd love to get rid of some of that snake's nest... but what can be the consequences? How about rerouting some of those hoses to serve all the components needed, except the water filler neck piece? Does anyone have anymore insight about this? I need to resolve this before cold weather.

Thermo valve is the broken piece in question. It's just a heat valve obviously, hence 'thermo.'

Attached is the vaccuum schematic and picture of splitters, 1990 car (which is mine).
 

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Leave those plugs open, it won't effect your car in anyway to leave them open, plugging them, might hurt it, i'm not sure on that part. I'm running the Taboo full race vaccum line setup, and it tells you to just leave those lines unplugged. You don't need the vaccum lines, just plug all of the ports on the throttle body. If you do get rid of everything though, make sure to block off the egr valve, if you don't, then you will have a problem. There's no coolant running through there, just air, its not heated air of anything, just air.
 
Pro3racer said:
Leave those plugs open, it won't effect your car in anyway to leave them open, plugging them, might hurt it, i'm not sure on that part. I'm running the Taboo full race vaccum line setup, and it tells you to just leave those lines unplugged. You don't need the vaccum lines, just plug all of the ports on the throttle body. If you do get rid of everything though, make sure to block off the egr valve, if you don't, then you will have a problem. There's no coolant running through there, just air, its not heated air of anything, just air.

Plugging them won't hurt anything, as they come plugged in the first place. Air might be heated by the coolant, through the plastic piece that's attached to the water filler neck.

Where's this "race vacuum line setup"?
 
That's the Thermo Valve. It is used to operate the EGR valve as a previous reply stated. No coolant can leak out of the 2 nipples. No vacuum can leak either. As the coolant heats up it changes which vacuum lines get vacuum so the EGR works when the motor is warmed up. That's all.
I removed mine and got a nice shiny brass plug. BLING!! Mark
 
search "taboo speed shop diagram" or "vaccum line diagram", and find the vaccum line elimination diagrams. You must have a larger fuel pump to do the race version though.
 
sweet97 said:
That's the Thermo Valve. It is used to operate the EGR valve as a previous reply stated.

We can see that clearly, no one was even questioning it anymore.

Yes, No coolant can leak out of the 2 nipples. No vacuum can leak either.

We've been through that already, no one was questioning that anymore.

As the coolant heats up it changes which vacuum lines get vacuum so the EGR works when the motor is warmed up. That's all.
I removed mine and got a nice shiny brass plug. BLING!! Mark

Therefore, if you remove the valve and leave the vacuum lines hanging (as some suggested), you're leaving the vacuum system open in two places. That's what I was asking, read my post again.
 
Excuse me if I repeated what everyone already knew. I thought I was expanding on the subject! Of course whenever any vacuum lines are removed they should be plugged. My '93 has all 4 nipples on the throttle body capped and all emission lines removed by a previous owner. Again, my apologies for being repetetive. Mark
 
So If I,

1. Block off the EGR valve,
2. Remove the PUrge Control Valve,
3. Remove Thermo Valve and
4. remove all the lines going from it to throttle body, Purge Control Valve and Purge Control Solenoid Valve,
5. Remove the Purge Control Solenoid Valve,
6. Remove the Charcoal Canister (is that in the pictures, how does that come into play?),
7. And cap off all the throttle body vacuum nipples...

I'll be perfectly fine?

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Do every thing on that list and it will be fine. A recomendation though, when you take out the charcoal cansiter there is a fuel line hooked to it for vapors. People have left them unplugged with no problems but I notice if you leave it unplugged you can get a light gas odor in the cabin of the car and a heavy one under the hood. Just my $.02
 
half-cocked said:
Do every thing on that list and it will be fine. A recomendation though, when you take out the charcoal cansiter there is a fuel line hooked to it for vapors. People have left them unplugged with no problems but I notice if you leave it unplugged you can get a light gas odor in the cabin of the car and a heavy one under the hood. Just my $.02

That's the vapor line coming from the tank, right? Is it even a good idea to plug it? Do I even need to remove the canister? Does canister simply vent itself to the atmosphere, simply absorbing harmful part of gas with charcoal?

I remember removing from the Laser when I parted it out, but don't remember where it was hooked to, besides the tank tube. I think I remember it had open vent mesh holes on the sides...
 
I'm sorry, dont plug it. Us a filter, like a PCV breather, to control the fumes. I used fuel line and ran it over to where the canister used to be and mounted the filter there.
 
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