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Is the 10" wide tire on a DSM a myth?

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Remember that the "255" refers to the section width, not the tread width. Most 255s have much less than 10" of tread. Very few tires are "square"; some are, but not many.
 
Is it safe to assume the OP meant 10" wheel instead of 10" tire?

Personally I can't believe it especially for the rear. I remember looking at my GSX rear on a lift and my EVO VIII wheels were not to far from touching the knuckle making me believe that a 9" wheel would be the max I could go. Maybe because the car was on the lift it made it look that way.
 
A ten will fit with out stretching tire. Offset of the wheel is important. And of course rolling and pulling fender. If you don't want to pull then don't run a wide wheel and run a 7.5 or 8 inch wheel like anyone would that just orders wheels that companies say for on your car, or do what a good amount of us do and just do it.
 
Is it safe to assume the OP meant 10" wheel instead of 10" tire?

This is car-related discussion site. Thus, nothing is safe to assume. But, in this case, the thread-starter actually told us which he or she meant. Take a look.
 
This is car-related discussion site. Thus, nothing is safe to assume. But, in this case, the thread-starter actually told us which he or she meant. Take a look.

LOL You're right about nothing is safe to assume. It's just that I've never heard anyone refer to tire width in inches before now, it's always been in millimeters.
 
Slicks for both drag and road-racing are often only described in terms of inches. With that said, I agree that it's weird that wheels are in inches and most street tires (and rally tires) are in metric.
 
I fit 10" r-comps inside the wheel wells with a hefty roll. Lowered a bit over 2". Obviously not stock suspension. This was (regrettably) on 8" wide +35 rims.

I see no reason why you couldn't run a 10" wide wheel. It could still be near a +30 offset. Fit would vary by tire.
 
Here's a 26x10 tire on a 8in rim 5.5in backspace. Sticks out bad and nearly rubs the strut.
 

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Tire or rim really, I'm trying to get as much rubber on the road as possible. This car is currently being transformed in order to start road racing. I actually no nothing about the best setup for this type of racing so there will be a steep learning curve.
 
If you're preparing the car for road racing, then the first question is what brakes will you have.
 
If you're preparing the car for road racing, then the first question is what brakes will you have.

Currently have wilwoods on her so I should be good there. I was looking at the roll stops that are made by a guy from this site. I also like the rear tubular subframe by Magnus but I'm not sure if that's allowed in the class ill have to run in.
 
Tubular crossmembers will usually push you up to a very high class, if not up to the unlimited class.

I'd suggest picking out your wheels/tires that you plan to run and then get out there and drive. No sense in throwing a bunch of money at it (i.e. tubular crossmember) before you even figure out how to drive the car.
 
This seems to be turning into a whole new thread (in which I'm not really qualified to participate), but I need to say that "I have Wilwoods" isn't really an answer to my question. I have Wilwoods, too, but the car wouldn't last two laps on pavement, because I also have 11.66" rotors (at both ends) for gravel/dirt racing and 15" wheels.

In any event (as it were), good luck!
 
here is a 26x10x16 drag radial on a 300zx rim. I forgot the offset but I have a pretty big spacer in there to get them to fit. I have to roll the fenders as well and run ARP extended wheel studs and they still barely clear the suspension. It was actually a pain to get set up
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