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Is my boost level normal?

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ferrerj003

Proven Member
50
0
Apr 13, 2013
Toronto, ON_Canada
Hi everyone. So my 95 TSI AWD is currently boosting at 9 psi max. I thought this was normal at first but I've heard that stock boost is from 12-15. The wastegate actuator is connected directly to the turbo nipple. So now I'm wondering if something is wrong. I've heard of doing a boost leak and I'm going to try that really soon. Gonna re-read over on how to do it. But is there anything obvious I'm missing or is this normal?

The main point I was gonna bring up is my BOV. It is the Turbo RFL XS BOV. What I'm thinking is the coupler thing connecting the intercooler to the BOV, it's like "ripped", it looks like it burst open. It started affecting my idle but my mechanic temporary sealed it with alot of tape and my car has been running fine since. The boost level was the same from before I went to my mechanic, and since I bought the car actually. I was supposed to replace the coupler with my mechanic but I never got back to him due to financial issues. I posted some pictures so you can see, you can still kind of see the tape. Any suggestions?

Also I have a better picture of the BOV itself but it's in one of my other posts and it won't let me upload the picture.
 

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The wastegate actuator is connected directly to the turbo nipple.

If you're not running a boost controller, then the max boost you'll be able to run is what the actuator is rated at. If I remember correctly, the t25 actuator operates at 10 psi...sounds like you need a boost controller.

I'd be more concerned with recirculating your bov.
 
I am not sure on what the wastegate boost is on the t25 but its a possibility your only running 8psi because you have it hooked up directly to a boost source and not the stock Boost controller.

Look into that.

EDIT: c2ypt1c beat me to it :p
 
It's a 15psi actuator trust me.

I'm fairly certain stock pressure is 10-12psi.

EDIT: Spanky_DSM beat me to it ROFL

Hes got boost leaks galore, this is his 2nd thread about this.

Judging by that tape job, I'm sure he does LOL. That would explain the 9psi, but if he ever wants to get above 12psi, like stated earlier, he needs a boost controller.
 
I had a t25 with the line looped and it hit 15psi every time, this was a year ago.

:hmm: Well, I definitely remember mine being @10-12psi, straight from the compressor to a new t25 actuator that I picked up from Mike at RRE. Maybe your actuator was going bad? Who knows, but I think the OP has enough info to resolve his problem (hopefully).

Not sure if OP is troll, or real question.
Yeah that mod list has a slight scent of troll...
 
Lol ouch getting banged on for being poor. That's why I didn't wanna go back to the mechanic for just that reason.

And yeah it is my second thread but I wasn't sure to post on other thread since it's off topic, not trying to break rules or anything.

Had a long talk about the BOV, from what I know it's uncirculable, if that's a word. Probably gonna get it replaced eventually, when I have the money LOL.

@93AWDDMS Thanks for the support, I think I'm gonna go for boost leak testing before installing the MBC.
 
Lol ouch getting banged on for being poor. That's why I didn't wanna go back to the mechanic for just that reason.

And yeah it is my second thread but I wasn't sure to post on other thread since it's off topic, not trying to break rules or anything.

Had a long talk about the BOV, from what I know it's uncirculable, if that's a word. Probably gonna get it replaced eventually, when I have the money LOL.

@93AWDDMS Thanks for the support, I think I'm gonna go for boost leak testing before installing the MBC.

do a BLT (boost leak test) before you get a MBC. and yes uncirculated is a word even if its not in the dictionary. or it might be. but how your BOV is now in uncirculated. you can either get a 1g or a 2g stock BOV and be fine, 1gs are better. but you have to work with what you can get your hands on.

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EVERYBODY has financial issues from time to time. and just like spanky dsm said. most of us drive a DSM not only because we cant afford an evo or also just because we like the eagles, talons, lasers over the over. you can have all the financial issues in the world but still be building a drag car.
 
Most of the stock set ups i've seen when by-passing the boost control solenoid only run either 9 or 11 psi. Extremepsi sells a oem mitsu wastegate actuator and its 11psi. So 9 psi sounds about right considering the age of the wastegate actuator.
 
Alright I hope I'm not too far bad with the boost leaks, gonna try doing a test within the next couple of days. What my mechanic told me, but it doesn't really show in the pics, is that the former owner used a coupler that fits directly on the piping, but is way too big for the inlet on the BOV. So he kind of just really clamped it hard and squeezed the tube over. So he said we'd have to look for a coupler that changes size from one side to the other for the best fit. Not sure what the sizes are I'm gonna check them out soon.
 
You should really disregard that post. Financial issues is why most of us drive a Dsm and not an Evo. Atleast i do, and make the best of it.

Heh. Between maintenance and getting my Talon up to spec after getting it used a few months back (coolant temp sensor, oil leaks, ball joints, tie rods, ect.) it is getting to be almost as expensive as my Evo VIII was. This IS my second DSM though (I somehow keep coming back).

Anyway, doing a BLT with any significant amount of pressure will probably point you right to that electrical tape. I'd be concerned with boost leaks WAY before I worry about recirculating that BOV or using a MBC.
 
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