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Intake Manifold comparison. Jmf street vs ported cyclone.

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More like 5.125".

I'm including the flange thickness as part of it.
Then of course there is the part you can't see inside the plenum chamber. I don't know if this is one that extends inside a little, or not.


I have to, as you already know, relocate the battery to the trunk other than that so far everything is straight forward!

KT, if you do relocate to the trunk, please show some pics of how you route the cables, vent the battery, hold down the battery, etc.
I am interested in the idea of relocating a full size battery to the trunk. It works out fabulous for BMW OEM. BMW replacement batteries (like from NAPA) are made with proper vent fitting to run fumes through a small rubber hose outside the car. But re-fit after the fact on a car not OEM for it causes some thinking to occur. Anyway, I do like a big healthy battery, and being a Boeing guy my taste for Lithium Ion is long gone.
 
I'm including the flange thickness as part of it.
Then of course there is the part you can't see inside the plenum chamber. I don't know if this is one that extends inside a little, or not.

I was gonna post what you may have been thinking but I didn't. I am on the same page as you. The Total Length From Inside The plenum is 6" this includes the inside protrusion of the velocity stacks to the edge of the flange. .
 
You can use a Miata battery too. Only downside is I had to fab a perch for it.

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Ironically I just left oreilly's and lo and behold the battery I measured was one that goes in a miata. Thanks for all the suggestion but i came up wit a way that will allow me to keep the battery in the stock location without any modifications what so ever. I will post pics when it stop raining.:thumb:
 
Good choice as relocating to the rear is a huge pita if you want to pass tech at a track and it's obviously a weight penalty
 
Ironically I just left oreilly's and lo and behold the battery I measured was one that goes in a miata. Thanks for all the suggestion but i came up wit a way that will allow me to keep the battery in the stock location without any modifications what so ever. I will post pics when it stop raining.:thumb:


But why would you not want it on the subframe, hide that shit LOL
 
not only a cutoff, but you will also have to have it in a sealed box that has a vent exiting the rear of the car.
 
No sealed box needed with a dry cell.

Aha - wondered about that.
So then you could put any size Odyssey you want in the trunk and you wouldn't have the venting problem. All you'd have is ..... all the other problems with putting it in the trunk.

With the track required shutoff switch, what is the requirement for where it is supposed to be located?
 
If i had it to do over again i would not mount in the trunk. Its not worth it. Unless you have a CLEAN bay, stick with the kit like Kyle is talking about. Just my .02
 
If i had it to do over again i would not mount in the trunk. Its not worth it. Unless you have a CLEAN bay, stick with the kit like Kyle is talking about. Just my .02

It's all good the battery is still in the stock location.
 
Same size as this one, which might have all the info you seek on the page
STM: LITHIUM PROS C680 POWERPACK LIGHTWEIGHT SMALL BATTERY

Thanks for the link. Every time I visit Street Tuned web pages I am impressed - they do a great job with their web site.

$500!

Reserve Capacity ratings are a way of giving an amp-hour rating that has been standardized in the USA to mean how many minutes it takes to drag a fully charged battery down to 10.5 volts at a discharge rate of 25 amps. 25 amps is nowhere near what a starter draws, but it is a pretty high rate.
So here are some comparisons:

Odyssey PC680 ----- 24 minutes (lead acid AGM "dry cell")
Lithium Pros C680 -- 26 minutes
NAPA Bat 7586 ----- 110 minutes (NAPA Legend 75 standard type replacement for 1g)

Potential problem I see with Li-ion C680 is max charge rate of only 3 amps. If you read the FAQs on the Lithium Pros site, scroll to bottom, read section about Max Charge rate. They are not just talking about the size of your charger. They are also talking about your alternator output to the battery. Yikes!!

Li-Ion batteries need to be managed by an electronic module that automatically shuts off the circuit to protect the battery when voltage per cell gets below about 2.8 volts or so at light load - 3 volts to be "safe". Your cell phone and lap top does this. The circuitry is built in - you don't even know it's there. You just think the battery is dead. No, it has been shut off to save its little butt. Letting the voltage go below this will physically damage the cell. It will never be quite the same again afterwards, and is more likely to catch fire. I suppose the 12V Li-Pros batteries are 3 cells (fully charged Li-ion cell is about 4 volts). So a protection circuit should kick in below 3x3=9 volts. I could not tell from their web site if such a circuit is built into the battery or not.

Fires? That is because unlike any other battery type I can think of, Li-ion batteries use an electrolyte that is a flammable hydrocarbon!!

I am tempted to say you should add in the weight of a fire extinguisher. But we should all have a fire extinguisher on board anyway so forget that one. :)

Not saying it's all death and destruction, but, things to know!
 
The manifold is on the car and all I have to say for right now is wow!:D The car pulls super hard from 5500rpm to 8500rmp. I have to say that I have heard from a few that I am going to kill my low end power and that the car will not be fun to drive from traffic light to traffic light I have to say that neither is true. The car is just as street friendly as the cyclone manifold was but with a twist, it screams up top. Overall I am happy:). Stay tuned for more updates!
 
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