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Installed bigger turbo and runs bad

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2g2ner86

10+ Year Contributor
62
0
Apr 17, 2010
Hazleton, Pennsylvania
I just installed a 16g on my car and now it will barely stay on at idle. I have no boost leaks and my narrowband gauge is stuck on the highest rich it could go and doesn't move.my car also won't stay on at idle after it warms up. Do I have to reset my ecu after adding the turbo or could it be a bad o2 sensor?
 
Yes. Everything is all hooked up. My car runs fine until it's warmed up. Also, it seems like I have less power with this turbo but I am still running stock boost. I'm afraid to turn it up until I get a tune.
 
I know this doesn't sound like it could be the problem since you didn't do anything with the ignition system, but I had the same problem with my old 91. It would run fine until it warmed up and then just die. It turned out to be the ptu. When it would get warm, something would open inside it and kill all spark. So I would check your ptu and possibly your coil pack.
 
The car will stay running. It's just when I come to a stop the idle will drop to 550-600rpm quickly. And if I don't rev it a little it will stall. But even if I rev it and it doesn't stall, it will still idle at 600rpm. I will check the ignition though thank you for that.
 
Yes. Everything is all hooked up. My car runs fine until it's warmed up. Also, it seems like I have less power with this turbo but I am still running stock boost. I'm afraid to turn it up until I get a tune.

Bigger Turbo usually means you ll need more than stock boost pressure just to get it going, i.e turbo like 35r you ll need a min of twenty some odd lbs just to have it spool.

As, for your issue, double check everything you removed.
 
For the guy that said, that when his car got warm something opened up killing spark.

I feel that would be more a voltage resistance issue.
Seeing how resistance gets higher the warmer it is.
Something might have had a few more ohms then intended.
 
I would recommend doing a boost leak Test and make sure you haven't blown any of the hoses to the turbo or intercooler. If these hoses aren't all the on it would cause the car to run very poor.
 
upgrade your fuel pump and injectors, and check to see if you have a boost leak, exhaust leak, or any shaft play


He doesn't need to upgrade injectors with 16g if hes planing to run over 20 psi then he can think for bigger injectors and fuel controller!!!! he can do 15 20 psi on stock injectors with only fuel pump upgrade and exhaust leak or shaft play doesn't have anything to to with bad idle when the car its hot !!!!

2g2ner86

Do you still have your antifreeze, hoses hooked up to your throttle body ? I had this problem before but the opposite, way the car idle ok when cold and when it gets warm it goes high. The fiav valve change position, depend how hot or cold the throttle body gets . Check that ..
I forgot to ask do you have any piggyback installed ? and what blow off valve do you have ?
 
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Bigger Turbo usually means you ll need more than stock boost pressure just to get it going, i.e turbo like 35r you ll need a min of twenty some odd lbs just to have it spool.



bad information to be spreading around ROFL couldn't be further from the truth.


but anyways double and triple check everything you did.. all else fails put the old turbo back on and see if you still have the problem.
 
bad information to be spreading around ROFL couldn't be further from the truth.


but anyways double and triple check everything you did.. all else fails put the old turbo back on and see if you still have the problem.

Like what this guys said!

I would check you work a few times, make sure every little thing is correct! ALL Sensors are plugged in, your not venting your bov, and you have not boost leaks!
have you checked the plugs to see if you might have fouled them out for some odd reason?
And again, if you fail to figure it out, put the t25 back on and see if it helps!
 
First off, before you go upgrading turbos and such, get a Wideband 02 sensor. The narrowband will not help you in cases like this. Also, you'll need something to tune with. The car will be able to compensate somewhat for more airflow, but you'll never see the type of gains you are looking for on stock controls. It's just keep acting up, and in alot of cases actually slow you down. The computer will retard the timing to keep the car "safe".

As mentioned above, check for vacuum leaks, if you have the BOV vented... plug it back in. Check for other boost leaks. Get a boost gauge and wideband at minimum. With a 16g on stock fuel, you'll only be able to run it at low pressures.. i.e. 12-15psi. You'll need to get bigger injectors and at least a 190 pump to go any higher.
 
A bad 02 will cause bad idle. An exhaust leak at or just before the factory 02 can cause a bad idle if the leak is bad enough. The reason a leak can cause a bad idle is because the pulsing of the exhaust can cause fresh air to be sucked into the exhaust making the 02 read lean. The ecu will see this then try to compensate by adding fuel. So your ecu will think its lean but the aftermarket will see it as rich further down once the free air mixes in with the exhaust better.

What # is your gauge actually reading. It should be 14.7 +- a few points fluctuating up and down a little, anything higher than 15.3 or so is too lean anything lower than 14.3 or so is too rich. At wot it should be in the 10s on a stock ecu. That nb gauge is a worthless light show as well, Dump it and get a real wb.
 
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