2G Innovate LC-2 wiring help

[alexr254]

I've searched and searched but could not find my exact scenario.
I am confused on the yellow wire bit.

My build is a 99 Spyder 2.4l 4g63 head swap and 16G turbo.
Using ECMLinkV3 and the Innovate LC-2 wideband.

I understand the pin outs, and understand pin 76 is for the front O2 sensor.
What i am not understanding is if i should tap into it, or replace it? I am guessing tap.

Also is it best to install the wideband sensor in the front O2 housing and do the narrowband suimilation? Or is there a better way? Should I use the rear sensor location?
Which way would stop the CEL from coming on from this?

 

[99dsmer4g63]

I used the rear o2 input. I cut the wire about 12 inches from the ecu and connected to it with my wideband wire. I didn’t tap it because I didn’t want to risk a bad signal with backfeeding the rest of the original wire.

I use the front o2 like the factory intended and welded an additional bung in my downpipe. So I’m not simulating the front sensor.

If you do what I did make sure to check the lock rear o2 sensor box under the misc tab in ecmlink. I have no check engine light like this.

-Daniel

 

[habitatguy187]

You can simulate narrowband if you want to. Many like to keep the factory o2 signal tho. I will say it’s definitely nice to have two sensors to compare data sometimes.

Check out these links

widebandbasics [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

lc2install [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

 

[alexr254]

Thanks all.
I’m just trying to keep it simple. I already have too much complications to deal with.
I can’t weld aluminum and I don’t know anyone who can.

So if I use the front sensor and simulate narrowband, am I tapping in the line or cutting the line and taping off the harness side?

 

[99dsmer4g63]

You sure your exhaust is aluminum?

Some people will completely remove the rear one and replace it with the wideband so they can still run stock front o2 sensor if adding a bung isn’t on your to do list.

For your other question I suppose it would be what you want to do. I’ve seen people do both.
However what I personally did was cut the wire about 12 inches from the ecu plug. Then tied my wideband into the ecu side of the wire. Thus leaving the wire to the o2 sensor dead throughout the rest of the car. As I stated I wanted a good signal and figured it would cause less issues. But to each their own.

Make sure you get the right wire on the ecu. The front and rear o2 inputs are beside each other and are both white. Make sure you set ecmlink up appropriately for the proper wideband input and where it needs to find it’s sensors and if your simulating or not.

-Daniel

 

[steve]

So if I use the front sensor and simulate narrowband, am I tapping in the line or cutting the line and taping off the harness side?

Best to unpin the factory narrowband O2 sensor at the ECU connector and wire your wideband's signal to a spare pin (from a J.Y. or partout) to insert into the connector. That way you can revert in the future without having a hacked up harness. And you won't have a long wire running into the engine bay to pick up noise like you would if you tap into it.

 

[alexr254]

Best to unpin the factory narrowband O2 sensor at the ECU connector and wire your wideband's signal to a spare pin (from a J.Y. or partout) to insert into the connector. That way you can revert in the future without having a hacked up harness. And you won't have a long wire running into the engine bay to pick up noise like you would if you tap into it.

Good idea! Thanks