lasthope05
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,144
- 267
- Mar 31, 2006
-
Philadelphia,
Pennsylvania
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Are you sure you ground the block correctly? Part A needs to be ground down completely to match part B.
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What I still don't understand is when I had the Saturn installed dsmlink was reporting voltage in the 13s, when I checked with a multimeter it was in the 14s? I ended up going back to the oem alternator? How are you guys wiring it in?Well, got it installed. Went to start the car, turned over..and over...and over huh. Not even trying to fire. So I look and see I tucked the fuel pump wire out of the way and didn't remember to connect it. Ooops yeah that would do it. So I connect it, car fires up on the 2nd try, I hop out and grab my multi-meter...12.08volts hmmm why aren't you charging!? Shut the car off.. start probing the charging circuit...wait how can there not be continuity from the fuse, alternator side to the positive post...start following wire...Ooops again I swore I connected that... okay 3rd times a charm.
Start the car, check battery voltage at the battery, 12.5, 13, 13.5, 13.8 wow! This thing is a beast! 14, 14.15, 14.28, 14.32, 14.37, 14.4, 14.44, .46, .48, .50, .52, .53, .54, stabilized at 14.55v. All in under probably 45 seconds on an old tired battery, damn color me impressed, and at idle!
I was going to take it for a quick spin but I'm messing with the seats and the lap belts aren't installed so that will have to wait. But thank you for those who helped with advice on this! Now I just need to wrap up that seat project and get a piece of heat reflective sheathing on those charging wires and see if I won the lottery on the alternator charging above 6200rpm as it sounds like some don't like high rpm.
Curious to see how it affects AFR as well.
Hey guys just finished up my Saturn alternator swap. And it's awesome!
If someone could give me a little info on this situation....I bought a brand new 105 amp from advance auto. Install was easy wiring was alright. I ran 2 new power wires to the fuse block then another 8 to the battery. I also ran 8 gauge ground to the battery. I ran the S terminl with a 12 gauge wire to my radio illumination wire. With I am seeing 14.7 at 900 rpm idle and a 15.3 volt charge at around 1500 rpm. Is that really bad? I unhooked the S wire and get a steady 14.3-14.8 from idle to 2000 rpm. I also noticed it seems not to stutter, as bad with no S wire hooked up. I was running the gm maf-t without a chipped ECU so I could only get o about 2k before it started running like sh**.
Glenn I was wondering if I could get your input on the 15.3 volt charge if thats ok thanks!
Hello,
Were you able to find out if 15.3v was dangerous during a cold start, did it lower once engine warmed up?
I was able to find a source for my "S wire", I connected it to the 12v wire that feeds my gauges that was about 12.8v (I think it is too low), Fuse box was receiving 13.8V, alternator was generating 13.9v.
Once I connected the S Wire, alternator generated 15.1v (measured at the alternator positive bolt).
I guess it would have lowered once the car reaches its normal temperature but I preferred to disconnect it since I was not sure if that voltage was safe.
Can anyone tell me if that is a safe voltage for a cold start?
Note: I also tried connecting the S wire to the positive post at the battery (which is in the trunk) but I didn't notice so much difference..
Did you ever get this solved? Are you getting 15v at the battery as well?
I installed the Saturn alt on my 90 eclipse with the jayracing relocation kit. Lots of good write ups for a 2g and 1g but conflicting wiring diagrams for a 1g. I ended up wiring the F (black wire on Saturn harness) to a switched 12v in the engine bay (top right wire on windshield wiper motor) and the s wire (red 12gauge wire Saturn harness) to the battery fuse, at the under hood fuse box (not the alternator fuse) . Then ran a ground wire from the battery directly to the case on Saturn alternator. Heat shrink up my stock connections and tucked them into the harness. Car runs amazing changed the whole car. 15v at the alt cable 14s at the battery. No draining the battery with the key off. Hope this helps anyone trying to do this on a 1g.
Yup sits pretty much the exact same as the OEM alternator . The Tensioner is the trickiest part tbh . I used the saturn bolt for the block .I have been wondering if those would work but wasnt certain due to design change. Your belt sits neutrally aligned? Awesome.
I am at a solid 13.8 after heatsoaking and only drop to 13.5 at higher revs but having cheaper alternatives since these are impossible to find in this city is frickin fantastic.
Its just a shame these saturns are disappearing and theyre such a PITA to extract an alt from..