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Idle problem after installing Cyclone manifold

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An impact driver makes removing those screws much easier. I think they might be the same size as throttle body shaft screws, but it is possible to find them. I can get the exact size at some point if anyone would like.
Those screws seems to be really soft (low strength) otherwise how could I just break them with small screw driver!
By the way, I can confirm that the shaft seals do not leak at 30 psi because I pressure tested the intake before installing it.
 
I finally had the time to do some tests and here is where I am right now:
I was able to warm up the engine by tightening the accelerator cable as I mentioned before and it still runs as if the engine is going to die at any moment. I tried to set the base idle as per procedure but I could not get it idle properly and there was still an erratic surge as if the ECU is trying to adjust the RPM. I do not know if that should happen when you follow the procedure. I was able to get it to idle at about 900 RPM by adjusting the screw for the base idle setting but it was still running bad. I then checked my AFR (LC1) reading and it was stuck on maximum lean and the boost gauge (Greddy) was showing about vacuum around 4 to 6 in HG.
I did a boost leak and I was only able to see a minute leak around the cylinder #3 injector insulator. I was not able to do a proper test because as soon as I close the valve of my tester, the pressure inside the manifold drops to zero. However, I had enough airflow and pressure to hold around 15 psi when the valve to the air tank was open. Note that I have a 20 Gallon compressor and the regulator was adjusted to 40 psi when I did the test.
I could not get a set of injector insulators to replace them but I still do not believe that such a small leak can be the cause of the problem. The lean condition is clearly a sign of a big vacuum leak or perhaps a faulty (stuck open) FIAV. I will do the "block the FIAV" mode that is shown in a tech. article and see what happens. If nothing works, I will remove the cyclone intake and check if it is warped. If it is , I will have machined and trued and check again. Is there any other things that should be checked before I go and remove the intake?

I had the exact same problem with mine when i installed. Wideband read max lean and stumbled on idle, but normal cruising speed it was 14.3-15.1 I did a boost leak and found a leak on the back side, so i decided to take it off and real seal it. Im back on the 1g intake and its back to normal. I still have not put the re sealed cyclone back on though, but you should know a lean condition out of load will do no damage but cause a misfire and save gas. The only time it causes damage is when the car is under load.
 
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