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1G Idle position switch

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SrKegler

15+ Year Contributor
1,123
35
Feb 29, 2004
Daytona Beach, Florida
Completely lost adjusting the idle position switch. The posts I found said to adjust the switch until the test light comes on, then turn 15/16 more.

With the switch all the way down or all the way up, key on, engine off, I never get the test light to light up.

Used a multimeter, shows 12V on the prong, voltage never changes adjusting it all the way up or down. Does this indicate a bad switch?

Problem is my idle won't adjust below 1200rpm. Jumps to 2K on cold start up. TPS is set at .63V, timing is firm at 5BTDC, all timing marks are perfect.
 
Try an ohmmeter on the switch and see if it ever see's ground by attaching one lead to the switch's spade terminal and the other lead to ground then open and close the throttle to see if the ohmmeter ever changes and shows just like it would if you touched both leads together. That is a good test for the switch and it could be that it is just bad since these cars are old. You may have to adjust it or just remove it and test it by pushing in on the plunger and doing the above test. Just trying to help ya out.
 
I think you're making this too complicated.

You just want to test continuity. So set the multimeter for that, and connect the probes between the lead at the top of the idle stop switch, and the little arm underneath it where the throttle cable linkage comes in.

You should hear the buzzer for continuity on your multimeter with the throttle closed. Tighten once you have that.
 
Spot on!!!! Good clarification. Thanks tmoney!
 
Thanks Tmoney. Electronics are way over my head. I try following the steps posted on here but when they don't work, I'm lost.

Grew up on points and condensers. Thought I was in hog heaven when I was one of the first to put a record player in my 60 chevy.
 
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