The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

2G i want a aggressive look on my 2g what offset and wheel size should i run?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Eddie Gonzalez

Probationary Member
3
0
Feb 24, 2015
Weslaco, Texas
what up fam i need help on what offset and width on wheels i should get for a aggressive look on my eclipse i would like the wheel to stick out a little cause i would like to put flares on it after i get the wheels, your car pic and spec will be much appreciated thanks dsm fam!!
 

Attachments

  • white eclipse 720.jpg
    white eclipse 720.jpg
    61.6 KB · Views: 1,236
I can't offer any offset specs, but I plan to go with 17" wheels. I'm choosing this because I can have more tire, without sacrificing the look. Once you get to 18" and bigger, your tire options narrow (and get more expensive). Tires are also a key element of the suspension system. With less sidewall, you'll have a harsher ride as there's not as much cushion to absorb bumps and such. Furthermore, depending on the specs of an 18" wheel, coupled with a suspension drop, you could have more issues with tires rubbing the control arms or wheel wells (for wider wheels/tires).
 
id really like to know the specs on the setup for the above photo
 
Specs for the above photo are 18x10.5 +15 with a 275/35...also, 17x9 +35 wont stick out any, so they would be fine without flares. If you are wanting flares, go with something similar to the above specs, but be warned they are going to really stick out. You have to give us more than just wanting flares at some point. What type of flares? How far down the road?
 
You can use a tire calculator to help get an idea of how much something will stick out. My fav. http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

Just play around with wheel and tire specs then you can use a tape to get an idea how it will set on your car.

Keep in mind that many will say anything lower than +25 can wear out wheel hubs quicker. Also when you add a wheel spacer it does the same thing with lowering your offset, sticking the wheel out further from the hub. That black 2g does look sweet.
 
I think an aggressive looking wheel setup is about more than just the wheels. People often get the formula for an aggressive looking wheel setup wrong by using oversize wheels, too much drop, and too little sidewall on their tires. The key to an aggressive wheel setup is a balance of a all 3 of these things.

95talongirl's car is only on a 16" wheel (the Motegi traklites pictured below) but her car looks great because it's paired with a properly sized tire and moderate drop. Alternatively, Mr Clean's 2G is sitting on an 18" wheel (which normally looks too large IMO) but his car looks great as well since he has plenty of sidewall and the car isn't sitting hella flush looking like $hit.

Personally, I think wheels with lips look more
aggressive, but it's more about the overall appeal. Gofer's car looks plenty aggressive on Evo 9 Enkeis, and they have no lip at all. Notice how he's done a great job highlighting the whole fender area with small touches like the red lettered mudflaps and the matching red Mitsu diamonds on the center caps. These are important things to note, because all the little things combined make for a balanced appearance, and give the car's stance an overall aggressive look.

Taking everything I've said into consideration, you can get the
aggressive look you're going for with or without fender flares. Just keep in mind, fender flares alone will look like crap. You'll need to pair them up with all the little details to look good. You'll need a wide wheel with a low offset and maybe even a set of spacers. You'll also be doing irreversible modifications to the body, which should be taken into consideration if you get over things quickly.

Below, I've highlighted a few 2Gs I think look great. Notice, none of these cars are looking hella
flush with super tucked wheels, stretched tires, or neon green spokes. There's a reason for that. As mentioned, a 17" wheel at about a +30 offset is a great choice for any 2G DSM.


RPF1s
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Rota-ish
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Evo 9 Enkeis
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


STRs
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Motegi traklite
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
i'd take my wheels over any of those, the last three are pretty nice though. The way I see it, OP is just getting ahead of himself. All of these cars push the power required to upgrade the brakes and get bigger wheels to allow better cooling. Otherwise you're all walk and no talk. First thing is first; you will need coilovers to make it look good, and this is a great mod to ease you into the suspension world and help your understanding. Eclipses sit like a truck, the wheel gap is horrid. Fix that wheel gap and any wheel would look pretty good. As far as offset, well I can't really run anything over +40 because I have brembos so if you plan on upgrading your brakes or other parts of the car in the future you need to develop a realistic plan so we can help you choose what size and offset so you don't have to change them later and blow more money.
 
Last edited:
I have xxr530 17x8.25 wide with a 245/40 and a 2inch drop and i rubbed like crazy but i cut out part of inner fender lip and they fit like a dream with a little camber.
 
Scott McIntyre's 17x10 +12mm wheels wrapped with 275/40 tires on a 2g and running a t28 for autox.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Not sure, you'd have to ask him. Scott McIntyre is his DSMTuner's username.

OP, this is a good thread to read through. ---> http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/help-me-pick-wheel-and-tire-size.432775/

Basically, the experienced DSMers that want an aggressive tire/wheel setup on the street say to run a 255/40 on a 17x9 +35 wheel. Eric (turbosax) runs them, which you can see some pictures of at the end of the thread linked above.

Here's a shot I took of it when I went to the Shootout, that's a 255/40/17 on a 17x9 +35 wheel with no spacers.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I spent a ton of time stressing over wheels and tires. I have FWD so I was looking to get the widest tire possible. So I was going back and forth between 17" w/255 or 18" w/245. I really liked the stock chrome wheels but they just were not wide enough. I liked the idea of 5 or 6 spoke. I scoured craigslist for months trying to find an affordable set. I ended up finding some Axis 18x8 +40 wide tracks in perfect condition for $350 (I spent another $60.00 on lug nuts and wheel locks because my stock ones didn't fit). They have a wide polished lip with hyperblack centers so they are still pretty shiny without the extra weight of chrome. I looked at Volks (TE37s) and ROTA Grids but the cost was astronomical (If you can afford to pay for a lighter wheel then it is worth it). I found some TE37 replicas for $600 brand new for a set of 4, that was the best new price. The only thing was that nothing was polished so you would have to either do that yourself or pay to have it done. So I got lucky by waiting it out, my wheels are used but they came off a show car and have very little miles on them and no defects. My wheels also fit (based on the DSM 18" wheel chart) with a few mm to spare on the fender and knuckle.

Next were the tires. This is where 18"s can screw you. If you want to keep overall size the same as stock and not have to mess with the speedo then you are stuck with 225s or you have to chase down the elusive 245/35/18. That tire size only comes on a few stock cars (including lambos) so good luck finding any good used ones. If I was going to buy new I found Michelin Pilot Sport all seasons for $217.00 ea. on tire rack. These were the most affordable all season Y rated tires with a 45,000 mile warranty (warranty is rare on Ys). These had a tread wear rating of 500. I had almost bit the bullet and purchased those tires when I got lucky again and found a set of 245/35/18s on craigslist for $350.00. These were Bridgestone Potenza S04 Pole Positions. These retailed for $173.00 each on tire rack but I normally would not touch them because they are summer tires with no warranty and only a 280 tread wear rating. The guy had purchased these for a set of custom RIMS for his Audi S4. Ended up not liking the RIMs so he sold those and was left with tires that would be tough to sell because of the rarity of demand. Fortunately I had a rare demand. They had less than a 1000 miles on them and still had the nubs on the tread (not just the sidewall). There was no patch work, curb rash or any other visible damage so I couldn't pas them up. These tires are sticky as F***. Solved my FWD wheel spin launch problems and I have a set of Urethane Avid motor mounts on my dining room table that should help with wheel hop. Corning performance is incredible too. Now I have no illusions that these tires are not going to go 45,000 miles like the Michelins but I may consider buying them again if they make it passed 30K (but I doubt it).

The other thing that I was surprised with was the fact that the ride quality did not suffer (stock suspension) from having the 35 series. The tires are grabby though and will tug on the steering wheel sometime on rougher patches of road.

All in all I was very happy with my finds. Just have patience if you don't have money.

Please excuse my fender to tire gap as I am planning on changing springs and dropping 1 - 1.5 inches.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
iloveboost, what is the offset on your rims? The rears look like they have a deeper lip to them or is it just the angle of the picture. Since you're FWD you can run a staggered setup, I'm just curious if that's what you did.
 
AWD's can run staggered setups, I don't understand why I keep seeing this being brought up. Running different offsets/widths of wheels doesn't effect rolling diameter, it's the size of the tire (rolling diameter) that damages the viscous coupling.

JS uses a staggered setup on his AWD.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Isnt staggerd also to do with the revolutions and the diff gearing and thats why alot cant run it due to it not matching correctly? If it doesbthen the front needs to be re geared aswell to prevent failure! Thats what i understand is the issue on staggering wheels on awd
 
I used to run a 225 in the rear and 215 in the front onky because i was an agressive driver and needed the rear end to keep more grip for me. I know it was not correct but i liked it being fwd it is ment to be the other way around but it worked for my driving skills at the time.

Now i run 245/40/17 +34 8.5" wheels it sticks out a little but not enough to worry about. I would upload a pic but there above size and i need to rescale it then upload it
 
It sticks out about 1/2" in the rear and about 1" in front
 

Attachments

  • DSC_1295_1.jpg
    DSC_1295_1.jpg
    311.5 KB · Views: 389
i'd take my wheels over any of those, the last three are pretty nice though. The way I see it, OP is just getting ahead of himself. All of these cars push the power required to upgrade the brakes and get bigger wheels to allow better cooling. Otherwise you're all walk and no talk. First thing is first; you will need coilovers to make it look good, and this is a great mod to ease you into the suspension world and help your understanding. Eclipses sit like a truck, the wheel gap is horrid. Fix that wheel gap and any wheel would look pretty good. As far as offset, well I can't really run anything over +40 because I have brembos so if you plan on upgrading your brakes or other parts of the car in the future you need to develop a realistic plan so we can help you choose what size and offset so you don't have to change them later and blow more money.

There are a few things to consider here. An aggressive looking wheel setup, and an aggressive performing wheel setup are two different things. Sadly, one doesn't always translate into the other. Also, an aggressive looking wheel setup just depends on who's looking at it. Everyone has their own idea of what looks good, so it's all in the eye of the beholder. If you want good looks, they can generally be achieved by concentrating on a well balance setup like I mentioned above.

In regard to the OP getting ahead of himself, I'm not sure I agree. Very few people lay out a build and execute it exactly as planned all at once. Goals change, budgets fluctuate, and you figure out what works and doesn't along the way. Personally, I establish long and short term goals, and try to meet them as circumstances allow. That may mean buying a set of wheels, and then trading up later on for something that works or looks better. Spending money is all part of the process, so as long as you buy smart and stay within your budget, you'll be fine if you need to buy and sell a few sets of wheels before you find "the ones". You're absolutely right about developing a realistic plan before you shop, though. Although spending money is part of the process, you should be smart when you do it.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top