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I need a stronger transfer case!!!!!!

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4wheelsNmotion

Banned Member
265
1
Aug 1, 2002
Lufkin_Tx
Anybody got any Ideas on what to do about the transfer case in high powered AWD DSMs? I know I'm gonna have to replace my tranny soon after my motor swap, and a rear end will be close behind, but my only real concern now is where do I get a better transfer case? Or can I make the stock 2g case stronger?

MJ
 
I haven't heard of anyone having probs with the strength of the trasfer case, just the end seal on it.
 
I think the reference is to the brass seal plug in the yoke, which is the root cause of the transfer case recall.

The 23-spline transfer case is a beast; the body is cast iron (vs. the 22-spline which is Aluminium) and unlikely to be the weak link in your driveline.

As long as you keep it lubricated and check the bearings occasionally, I think you'll have more cause for concern elsewhere.
 
I am putting a 4 pinion t-case in mine. Chris Tapp has one made for his car. It puts the strain on 4 pinions instead of 2 like the 23 spline.
 
Big Boost - where can I find a 4 pinion transfercase for a 2g. Obviously you know, you have a 2g also. hook it up with details. PM me if you like.

MJ
 
stock transfer case will likely never fail from the power you'll be making.....
 
What kind of HP will the stock Xcase hold
I'm shooting for 500 at least
gonna have to get a tranny first, I know that. How bout the rear end? 2g comes with 4 bolt or what? I've hear the drivetrain is stronger, but the 7bolt crank fux it all up. I caught hte CW and haven't recovered yet.

MJ
 
Originally posted by 4wheelsNmotion
What kind of HP will the stock Xcase hold
I'm shooting for 500 at least
gonna have to get a tranny first, I know that. How bout the rear end? 2g comes with 4 bolt or what? I've hear the drivetrain is stronger, but the 7bolt crank fux it all up. I caught hte CW and haven't recovered yet.

MJ


Many people have put 600+ hp the the wheels with the stock transfer case..As for the 4 bolt rear (92-99) it's quite robust, the axles are the weak point....
 
Driver's side axels from what I hear ar ethe ones that usually go first. My luck I'll buy up a couple of driver's side axels and a passenger side will break. Thanx for the input guys. Keep it coming. Anything else you guys can thing of that I might have trouble with in a 500hp GSX?

MJ
 
Originally posted by BigBoost'98
I am putting a 4 pinion t-case in mine. Chris Tapp has one made for his car. It puts the strain on 4 pinions instead of 2 like the 23 spline.

You guys are talking about two different things. The 4-pinions you are referring to are in the center differential, which is in the transmission. Stock uses two pinions and speed designs offers a modified unit they have machined to accept 4-pinions for higher load capacity. The 23/22 spline is the transfer case differences you are speaking of.

I have not heard too many people having problems with x-fer cases. The previous poster was correct about the brass plug though. To "FIX" a leaking transfer case, the dealership MUST replace the yoke on the front of the driveshaft, since that is what is actually leaking. VERY FEW dealerships know this.
 
Hey dudes. Are drieve axels interchangeable from side to side? Can 1g drive axels work in a 2g? Which is said to be stronger, 1g or 2g?

MJ
 
Hey just a thought, but before you go out and buy all thses extra parts and spend all this money... you shoudl see if you can actually make a 500whp car....
 
thanx for the bit of encouragement. do you have any idea of what kind of car I'm building right now. My 7 bolt CWed on me so now I'm going 6 bolt. And not just your ordinary 6 bolt either. It's a 4g64 block stroked to a 2.6 with eagle H beams, wiseco's, full race 1g head with 1mm oversized valves and full crower head package(stage 3 cams, adj. gears, valves, springs, retainers),rev hard t4 mani, magnus intake, full t4 with .96 a/r exhaust, and a 50 shot on top.
Sounds like more than 500 hp is you ask me. Just gotta work out the fine tuning and I might see 500+ to the wheels. That would be nice, but I'm not expecting it for my first DSM setup. I made 280whp on the 7 bolt before the CW. That was on stock turbo and the juice.

MJ
 
1st rule in making large amounts of HP: pick your weakest link.

Build everything but that one part. Something has to break, it always does. What is the easiest to replace? or the cheapest.

My boss has a ~550HP vette. To save the rearend he puts on hard tires. When the stickies are mounted, he has 5 extra rears lying around!
 
Originally posted by 4wheelsNmotion
Hey dudes. Are drieve axels interchangeable from side to side? Can 1g drive axels work in a 2g? Which is said to be stronger, 1g or 2g?

MJ

Not from side to side, but 1G to 2G, yes. My buddy has a '99 tranny in his '90 GSX. No difference in strength to my knowledge. I agree with Austin, are you putting down enough power to matter? I have not heard of a huge number of axles breaking, except stock 3-bolt rear setups with high HP apps.
 
Originally posted by Tevenor
I would love to see the rod angle on that '2.4 stroked out to a 2.6'. :rolleyes:
I'm anxious to see as well. I am having a shop in Houston build the block. They say it's possible, but all I've heard so far is negative things. Marco Passante is known as a great builder of strokers, but he doesn't believe the 2.6 can be done with out shaving the rods down. I say knotch the bottom of the bore. The shop working on the block builds indy race motors and nascar engines. I'm a little weary, but also anxious to see if it works.

MJ
 
As soon as you are *actually* making 500 HP and not just thinking about it, then *maybe* start worrying about your transfer case breaking.
 
First, I will agree with others that 2.6 out of 2.4 is not the best engine choice at this point… I would really hate to be a guinea-pig, but if you do not mind it, it is your call. Keep us updated :)

As for transfer case, those who are saying that our transfer cases do not brake do not have cars with enough torque :). After addressing our center diffs (be it via 4 spider gears or weled center diff), our next weak points are DS rear axle (yes, even the 4 bolt) and TRANSFER CASE output shaft!

Both of those become especially vulnerable when you go into 4X4 mode (welded center diff or VC). It is a serious problem with not many solution. So far, I broke 2 rear axles and one transfer case, one of my friends has two rear axles and two transfer cases to his name. So it is pretty common once you hit mid 11’s on consistent basis.

Now, you bring up “strocked storcker” idea… Back around ‘97-‘98 Bill Lawrance was the first person to run a 2.4L strocker on a DSM. He could not keep a transfer case in one piece for more than 2-3 passes! Bill ended-up giving up on the entire DSM racing thing because of this chronic transfer case problems (I am sure there must have been some additional reasons). At that time, he was convinced that strocker motor was not feasible in an AWD DSM because it made too much torque for the drivetrain to handle.

Well, I am not sure if I agreed with him back and people are using them in now days pretty frequently. My point is that if a stocker poses a problem for a transfer case, then a “strocked strocker” will be even worse. So in theory, this is not a premature thing to worry about in such application :).

So how do you protect your drivetrain? I have a theory… Years ago, when I switched to a JDM switchable transfer case, I noticed that it had different output shaft. It is much shorter (on the inside) and does not appear to neck-down in the area where US spec transfer case output shaft tends to break.

Ever since I installed this transfer, I stopped having problems with broken transfer cases (though I am still braking axles). Now, it could be just a co-incidence. But my friend, who also went to a JDM transfer case has not broken it yet.

Has anyone ever heard about one of those x-fer cases braking in a conventional manner?

Leon
RR
 
OK, it's just a stroker motor, not a "stroked stroker". I am taking a standard 2.4 ltr N/T block, say from a 96 GS spyder or something like that, with a 6 bolt crank. A local motor shop is re-working the crank to turn over the 2.6 stroke. The 4g64 isn't much different that the 4g63, but it is a little taller and is bored to a slightly bigger displacement. I am still not full into the 2.6 stroker idea yet, necause I've been told it will not work. I have asked for the block to be proven before it goes in my car and I call it my own. I want to see the rods clear the bottom bore with my own eyes. The shop building my motor say it will work, others on the net say it will not. I'm torn in the decision.

MJ
 
>OK, it's just a stroker motor, not a "stroked stroker". I am taking a standard
>2.4 ltr N/T block, say from a 96 GS spyder or something like that, with a 6
>bolt crank.

In ’93 all Mitsubishi’s switched to 7 bolt cranks, so all Spyders had 7 bolt motors… If they tell you otherwise, they might not know Mitsu's as well they might claim...

>A local motor shop is re-working the crank to turn over the 2.6 stroke.

4G64 (the 2.4L motor) is considered a “strocker” motor by DSM crowd because it has longer stroke than 4G63 (2.0L) and slightly larger bore. So when you stroke 4G64, you end-up with what I call a “strocked strocker” :). Now, the question becomes: Why would you do that? Is 2.4L motor build-up is not tough enough?

I this shop is confident in their ability to build a 2.6L motor, they must be even better at building 2.4L motors. Whatever extra stroke you might get with 2.6L is NOT WORTH the RISK of having a motor blow up on you!!! If you have any control over these people, I would recommend telling them to build you a 2.4L (if you must have something with longer stroke).

> I'm torn in the decision.

This is simple, ask to see their happy customer cars with 2.6L motors… If they come back with any stories (and mean ANYTHING other than presenting a running car), do not get that motor.

As for where to get a JDM transfer case, look at the parts trader. Some people get them when they buy JDM trannys and if they do not need that feature, they usually sell them for $100-$400. I paid $300/shipped for my back when they were pretty rare. Sometimes it might be worth to buy JDM tranny for around $650. Keep the transfer case and sell the tranny for around $500-$600.

Bare in mind that all switchable transfer cases have 22 splines, so you have to use a matching tranny output shaft (not a bid deal)

Leon
RR
 
Originally posted by 2-0turbo


You guys are talking about two different things. The 4-pinions you are referring to are in the center differential, which is in the transmission. Stock uses two pinions and speed designs offers a modified unit they have machined to accept 4-pinions for higher load capacity. The 23/22 spline is the transfer case differences you are speaking of.

I have not heard too many people having problems with x-fer cases. The previous poster was correct about the brass plug though. To "FIX" a leaking transfer case, the dealership MUST replace the yoke on the front of the driveshaft, since that is what is actually leaking. VERY FEW dealerships know this.

My bad!! I misread the thread.:p
 
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