420A I cannot download the file from ECU with ECUFlash

[Serafin]

Hello, I've been working on this for a while and I can't find any solution. I have a 96' Eclipse 2g with a 420a engine. I'm trying to download the ECU file via Ecuflash, of course I have a Tatrix cable. When I click download from ECU, an error appears after a while. The only thing written before the error is:

[19:20:09.762] Device Serial Number: TAhJALxt
[19:20:12.383] sending init sequence 2
[10:20:14.395] interface close

I just don't know what to do now. Please any help...

 

[chrysler kid]

You cant use ecu flash on the 420a ecu. So mystery solved

Ecu flash is only for 98-99 4g63 models with the black box ecu.

 

[Serafin]

I couldn't find this information anywhere, thank you very much. But can I download this unfortunate file? And if so, could you tell me how?
I just have a problem that the computer gives me too much gasoline and the engine chokes a bit.

 

[curt-s]

Are you saying you have larger injectors than stock?
You might want to look into Megasquirt but there are a number of "gotchas" with the 420a.

 

[Serafin]

Are you saying you have larger injectors than stock?
You might want to look into Megasquirt but there are a number of "gotchas" with the 420a.

I have original fuel injectors. The problem is that the engine receives a larger dose of gasoline (most likely the previous owners wanted to do it this way because the exhaust will pop from time to time and the fuel consumption is higher than it should be). I wanted to connect to the computer and check if they really didn't set too much, but the computer wouldn't respond. I am looking for a way to connect to the ECU of this car, or is it not possible to connect at all?. Do you have any way?
Thank you in advance.

ps: this is the first time I've heard of megasquirt. I have to see what it is.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

I highly doubt your ecu has been reprogrammed in any way. I think your issue lies elsewhere. If the ecu is the issue, best you can do is replace it.

 

[Serafin]

I highly doubt your ecu has been reprogrammed in any way. I think your issue lies elsewhere. If the ecu is the issue, best you can do is replace it.

Okay, I totally understand. But I still want to get to this computer because I won't give up on it, I've spent too much time on it. Isn't there some way to do this? If not, well, sometimes you have to let it go...

 

[curt-s]

As @BLACK'98DSM says, it's highly improbable that it was modified. If anything, it was modified for larger injectors and then the factory ones were reinstalled when sold to you without reflashing, which I don't believe is possible with that ECU anyway.

Either way, that would result in a shorter pulse of the injector, causing you to run lean, not rich. Nobody flashes to run smaller injectors. However, the O2 sensor would see it's lean, and increase the trim and try to bring it back into range. It's unknown at that point if it would be able to, depending on how much of a difference it needs to and whether it would run out of that adjustment range.

Anyway, it definitely sounds like your problem lies elsewhere. That's not to say the ECU isn't the problem, but it would be on the hardware side, not the programming. If that were the case, you'd probably be experiencing more issues of greater intensity.
If you're just burning through fuel, I'd be looking at pulling the injectors and either getting them tested/professionally cleaned or doing a manual cleaning using an approved method, or replacing your O2 sensor. A whacky O2 sensor could be reading leaner than it should, causing your ECU to lengthen the injector pulse width which would make you run rich in closed loop.

Have you tried a cheap $3-5 OBD2 logger with bluetooth and the Torque Android app? It can read values real-time; I use it on my daily every so often, works great.

 

[Serafin]

As @BLACK'98DSM says, it's highly improbable that it was modified. If anything, it was modified for larger injectors and then the factory ones were reinstalled when sold to you without reflashing, which I don't believe is possible with that ECU anyway.

Either way, that would result in a shorter pulse of the injector, causing you to run lean, not rich. Nobody flashes to run smaller injectors. However, the O2 sensor would see it's lean, and increase the trim and try to bring it back into range. It's unknown at that point if it would be able to, depending on how much of a difference it needs to and whether it would run out of that adjustment range.

Anyway, it definitely sounds like your problem lies elsewhere. That's not to say the ECU isn't the problem, but it would be on the hardware side, not the programming. If that were the case, you'd probably be experiencing more issues of greater intensity.
If you're just burning through fuel, I'd be looking at pulling the injectors and either getting them tested/professionally cleaned or doing a manual cleaning using an approved method, or replacing your O2 sensor. A whacky O2 sensor could be reading leaner than it should, causing your ECU to lengthen the injector pulse width which would make you run rich in closed loop.

Have you tried a cheap $3-5 OBD2 logger with bluetooth and the Torque Android app? It can read values real-time; I use it on my daily every so often, works great.

I connected it to the computer and saw the fuel consumption in real time, etc. The problem is that, as I said, someone was messing with the computer and the spark timing is set to -15 at 3500 rpm and that's why I'm trying to connect to the ECU to change it, because i don't really need "pop&bangs". It was from an application in which you can't change it but you can see the preview and that's why I'm looking for a solution.

 

[motomattx]

Post a picture of your computer, it might be an aftermarket part, the stock computer is not programmable for performance.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

I don't have all of the stock values memorized, but that sounds like fairly normal ignition timing for the stock ecu. At what throttle position was this value recorded? Those computers heavily retard ignition timing almost always, the only time you reach or exceed 0 is at WOT. It is designed to run very safely with 87 octane or equivalent fuels in any given climate. This is why Megasquirt is such an upgrade for the non turbo models (aside from adjusting fuel trims for turbocharged applications).

If the ignition timing becomes excessively retarted that would point to the camshaft position sensor being an issue. If there is no signal or a weak signal, the ecu will enter an even "safer" mode of probably around -20. At this point you're getting the pops and bangs. A while ago I was playing with my ignition timing, seeing how far I could retard it and what the result would be. I had to stop around -24 from fear of exploding my muffler. At that point it lacks too much power anyway.

Post edited because autocorrect was not on my side whilst typing this post.