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I blew up my Holset AGAIN! Now I give up.

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Just something to add to all of this, I have my turbo fed from the head(NO BS NO OIL SQUIRTERS)(Also I get 110psi of pressure from my OFH at 7k WOT), I have a pressure sensor right on my -4 feed line. At idle with NO Pressure, I can fill a 8oz container in 15 seconds. THAT'S ZERO pressure. Think about what your OFH is doing to that. What people need to do is measure the oil coming out of the drain, not pressure because journal bearing turbos don't necessarily rely on pressure so much as volume and trust me if your spiting 80psi of -4 at a turbo or even restricted that thing will fill up the CHRA in about 1 sec. This whole oiling problem needs to be figured out quickly this whole problem is giving holsets a bad name.

What we need to do is make a standard to how fast the feed should fill a measured container at a certain pressure. Or something along those lines.
 
so maybe I should pull the return line off and fill up a bottle and see how long it takes. Then get the fitting and see whats going on. The only tricky part is that my restrictor is where the oil goes into the turbo, using a nitrous jet. I won't be readying pressure after the restrictor, just before it.

Sidenote, I drove a cummings dodge 3500 the lastnight and was looking at the oil pressure. It sees 20psi at idle and crusing part around 40 and WOT about 55. Gives me something to shoot for I guess.
 
But that is not the pressure that the turbo sees. We need some sort of method of determining how much oil is enough. Maybe if someone has a truck with a turbo on it if they wanna pull a line off and use a measured container and see how long it takes to fill lets say 1cup? Doing this at idle should give us something that could help some what.
so maybe I should pull the return line off and fill up a bottle and see how long it takes. Then get the fitting and see whats going on. The only tricky part is that my restrictor is where the oil goes into the turbo, using a nitrous jet. I won't be readying pressure after the restrictor, just before it.

Sidenote, I drove a cummings dodge 3500 the lastnight and was looking at the oil pressure. It sees 20psi at idle and crusing part around 40 and WOT about 55. Gives me something to shoot for I guess.
 
I just searched the turbobricks.com forums and couldn't find anything about them having this problem with the holset's. They don't run restrictors and there drains are in the "fat" part of the oil pan. I noticed that on my 2g pan its in the small part of the pan and close to the crank. I'm really starting to think the flow of the drain, crank case pressure may be a factor.
 
i thought a -10 was a ok size for oil drain?
 
I have been feeding my holset from the head (with balanceshaft) since November, been running 28psi since probably late December without any kind of smoking or anything. Maybe you SHOULD check for shaftplay? Your problem could be something else, OR maybe you keep getting beat holsets?
 
Both turbo had almost no shaft movement with no oil in them. The second one had zero. I thought it could possibly be bad luck, but mine too was fed from the head, and last longer. I am still drawning things up and deciding how I am going to solve this.
 
Well I got the oil pressure gauge set up and at cold idle the car is at 60psi with 20w-50. At full temp it idles at 24psi!! I do have a .078 restrictor in the line so I am sure I am if not below, dangerously close to the minimum 10psi required. I did not drive the car around because it is midnight now and I can wait. The car is either at 20psi or 58-64psi, As soon as you touch the las it hits 60ish and doesnt move. I only can take it to 7500, but I think I am okay as long as I ditch the restrictor.

:hmm: If only I knew how much that restrictor really dropped the pressure. O well it is going, And I am going to reclock the oil inlet and outlet to straight up and down for maximum flow.
 
Really? how cheap is cheap, I have a hx35 sitting right here making a good paper weight.
I stock genuine Holset parts kits at all times for the HX35 and HX40. As long as the wheels haven't hit the housings, the turbo is 100% rebuildable for $150 or less total invested.

If the wheels have scuffed the housings and the turbo needs rebalanced, you will spend about $50 to get that service done. If the wheels have hit the housings and there is significant damage done, throw the turbo away...you can buy good HX35's for $200 or a little more.
 
would be a good idea to fix your oil pressure and flow problems before throwing another holset on there...
 
I think that most of the people having these problems are running used turbo's.
There's nothing wrong with a used turbo as long as it was well cared for. I've already torn down Holsets for customers that bought them used and wanted them rebuilt before they were installed, and there was literally no visible wear on any of the used parts. As long as there's no shaft play, it means the turbo was well-lubricated and the journal bearings were supported fully by the incoming oil pressure and they never contacted the housings.

Diesels are a million times easier on turbochargers than a gasoline application. For starters, the oil used in diesel applications has a higher film strength because of the increased engine loads and more detergent from the added soot so the turbo's internals generally stay cleaner with less wear. A diesel's exhaust is cooler, and their overall engine operating temperature (and oil temperatures) are lower. Another key benefit is diesels do not have throttle plates, so there's no chance of a blow off valve being too stiff and not opening enough to prevent compressor surge. To anyone not familiar, surge will wear the journal bearings and thrust plate quicker than anything else because of the excessive loads forcing the turbo to spin against it's normal direction of rotation.
 
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