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2G replace hydraulic clutch line?

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bowens1414

Proven Member
123
2
Oct 30, 2012
Bradenton, Florida
well she broke down this weekend my 97 gst had it running again within minutes but im just curious is the clutch line that runs from the clutch fluid cylinder to the slave cylinder a difficult fix? i know theres a leak right in the middle of the line and need to replace it soon so im just curious what it will take to do this? much thanks
 
Upgrade to a stainless steel line from STM they are around $55. Then it's just removing the old line and replacing it with the new. The hardest part IMO is bleeding the clutch. There is a how to on in the how-to section which makes it easy.
First time doing it I would say maybe 1-2 hrs to get it done.
 
Upgrade to a stainless steel line from STM they are around $55. Then it's just removing the old line and replacing it with the new. The hardest part IMO is bleeding the clutch. There is a how to on in the how-to section which makes it easy.
First time doing it I would say maybe 1-2 hrs to get it done.

Did you have a monkey helping you!?! Should only take about 15 minutes.

I do agree though, STM has a SS replacement line. I made that "upgrade" a couple years back and love it! It replace the entire hard line as well as that little cylinder thing on the transmission. Its pretty tough to get the line all the way removed with the intake manifold still in the car so you might want to just cut or bend it out of the way as far as you can.
 
Bleeding clutch should only take 15 min. Your doing it wrong if it takes longer. Maybe 25 for completely dry system. Carquest can also make ss braided lines for it. At least the one here can.
 
Well, replacing the entire OEM line with another OEM is a PITA as the "middle" is on the passenger side because it snakes all arouind the engine bay, but replacing the loine with a complete SS braided -3 line is simple (don't use a -4 line if you don't want a bleeding nightmare on your hands)

also< if you know how to build braided line don't spend 80 bucks or whatever they're charging for a prebuilt one, I built mine for the cost of 2 fitings at 8 bucks ach aftertax and bought 5 foot of -3 line for about 16 bucks, and foot is more than enough, but that way you can route it how you like and not be paying an extra 30+ dollars just to hav e some one else put on two fittings. (my opinion and the way i do everything really)

If you can't build the lines (which brake linePTFE stuff is easier than the rubber larger -6 and up hose) then pay some one you knwith a 6 pack of beer to make it and you'l learn how and still save money

again dfon't useor buy a -4 line, I made my first one out of -4 and couldn't get it bled proper;y to save me and then was told by a friend who has a little performance shop that he never had luck with -4 either although they sel them that way he nedede to vacum bleed them when made from -4... -3 line bled up fast within a few pumps and i put over a quart through the -4 to get marginal at best performance.
 
Did you have a monkey helping you!?! Should only take about 15 minutes.

I was just saying for no one that has done it before that's all. The OP doesn't sound like he has a ton of mechanical experience under his belt. It took me like 30 mins to do mine and that included putting in a new master cylinder.
 
Well, you have 3 options.

Option 1: Brand new Mitsubishi slave. Super reliable but pricey.
Mitsubishi OEM Clutch Slave Cylinder - DSM - 2G 95-99 DSM Gauge Pods - DSM Gauge Pods - Gauges - DSM Performance Parts | DSMparts.com

Option 2: New OE equivalent slave. Slightly less reliable but much cheaper with warranty.
PowerTorque® CS2107 - Clutch Slave Cylinder | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Option 3: Rebuild your current slave. The least reliable option but dirt cheap.
(You'll have to search this one up, not many places carry the rebuild kit. Maybe NAPA or Advanced. Just make sure to get the proper rebuild kit or your slave. I believe FWD slaves have 13/16" inside bore while AWD is 3/4", but not positive.)
 
Yes, RockAuto lists the same part number for both the turbo and non-turbo models - H38946.

 
Yes, RockAuto lists the same part number for both the turbo and non-turbo models - H38946.

what about the slave to master cylinder line? are those the same? mines leaking and i need a new one.
 
The metal one? I have not seen that available but the folks that do part outs will more than likely have them.
The way it looks, you could go from the steel/hose/steel to a braided steel line from the Master all the way to the slave and forget about that silly rubber line that can swell and make for a bad clutch feel/drag if it expands.
Just putting that out there for thought.
If anyone sees an issue with this, PLEASE CHIME IN!
From the search on RockAuto, they use the same Master cylinder so I am assuming that is an option for our member.
 
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