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Hx35 6.7 Cummins turbo

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Chris_decker01

Probationary Member
3
0
Sep 14, 2021
Dublin, Virginia
1990 eclipse gsx

Okay I am trying to learn as much as I can I'm 18 and not as experienced as everyone else yet.
I have read many forums on here about the hx35. I recently purchased a hx35 and the seller said it was from a 6.7 Cummins. It's a twin scroll deal.
I found a bullseye power .70 a/r housing to swap onto it to get rid of the twin scroll. I also purchased a t3/t4 manifold, tial 50mm bov, and a 38mm wastegate. Plan on running speed density and do away with maf as well. There is still several parts I need to acquire before my build starts.

I have a few questions as far as what I'm missing. I will be changing to bigger injectors and 450 fuel pump. I'm already on link v3 with my big 16g. What else will I need and what down pipe, o2 will I need. Can someone send me a link to it and inform me better on what else I need.

As said above I have read the forums I just can't make sense of some of the parts mentioned and where to find them.
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Most downpipes for the vband housings are custom and normally not cheap. Check out Morrison Fabrication. They sell a hot parts kit. I'm unsure if they sell the downpipe alone. Your parts list is pretty good. I would upgrade head studs to arp and make sure all the maintenance is good. Like the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. Are you keeping emissions related stuff? Also, are you running a stock motor?

I had all the preventive maintenance done. And my 20g actually spun a rod bearing. I currently make 530whp with a hx35. Just be careful. I'm using DSMLink for the boost control.

Another part you didn't mention was cooling. I have custom rad setup. But you might need a 1g rad in your 2g. The factory fans won't fit. You can fit 1 but not both. Make sure you have a good fan.
 
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I purchased arp head studs , hks stopper type head gasket, kelford 272,272 cams , I bought a set of brain crower dual valve springs/kit cooling wise I have a mitsumoto dual core aluminum radiator with matching shroud/fan kit although I was told I can only use 0ne fan for clearence purpose, while using the hx35. I've pretty much purchased everything to do the swap some odds and ends I still need to get. Waiting on Safelite to put a new windshield in my car friday and then I will be putting it in my grandfather's garage for the winter to pull the motor, timing belt ,water pump and doing a balance shaft delete as well while it's out. What is your thoughts on using my stock intake apposed to a aftermarket ? Also throttle body ? Wanting to run e85 , I have a set of fic blue max 1800cc e85 injectors in my cart haven't purchased yet , wanting to make sure that is the right route to go before making the bigger purchases. Thanks for the reply man especially from someone actually running the hx35
 
Did the BEP housings come in the t3/t4 flange? I thought the BEP housings were used to bolt up to a stock flanged manifold.
Yep. I wish there were still used units out there for 1/2 the price :(
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You are running a FMIC, aren't you? I didn't see anything about your intercooler setup.
Also, the twin scroll is actually a good thing, it makes that turbo spool faster than an open flange setup.
Here is my son, with a HX35/Twin Scroll @MorrisonFab manifold and that thing spools quick!
He melted a piston ring land on that run (he dialed in too much timing, unbeknownst to me) on a fresh 7 bolt I built for him, but you will see how quick he gets out of the hole!
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It's a killer turbo, stick with the twin scroll, you'll love it. I just made 460HP with my hx35 on a bone stock motor. Walbro 450, 1000cc injectors. I did like 4 install videos that will give you a general idea of a few of the things involved. Just search "Hx35 dsm turbo upgrade" on youtube.


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HX40>HX35 :p ROFL
 
I purchased arp head studs , hks stopper type head gasket, kelford 272,272 cams , I bought a set of brain crower dual valve springs/kit cooling wise I have a mitsumoto dual core aluminum radiator with matching shroud/fan kit although I was told I can only use 0ne fan for clearence purpose, while using the hx35. I've pretty much purchased everything to do the swap some odds and ends I still need to get. Waiting on Safelite to put a new windshield in my car friday and then I will be putting it in my grandfather's garage for the winter to pull the motor, timing belt ,water pump and doing a balance shaft delete as well while it's out. What is your thoughts on using my stock intake apposed to a aftermarket ? Also throttle body ? Wanting to run e85 , I have a set of fic blue max 1800cc e85 injectors in my cart haven't purchased yet , wanting to make sure that is the right route to go before making the bigger purchases. Thanks for the reply man especially from someone actually running the hx35
Get an aftermarket intake manifold. Without one, upgrading springs is almost a waste, as there is little power to be gained above 7k with the stock intake manifold. Once you put the aftermarket intake on, rev to the moon, and make power the whole way there!

As far as your cooling goes, you CAN use two fans. The driver side fan will have to be aftermaket slimline, in a pull configuration. Wire both fans to turn on when the ecu tells the passenger side fan to kick on, using a relay to control both fans at once. Make sure you get a good slimline fan with plenty of CFM to keep the car cool.

Keep the stock throttle body. Aftermarket ones leak, shafts break, and guys have gone 8's on the stock one. No reason to upgrade it, unless it's completely junk. Then just buy another OEM one or rebuild yours.

Are the FIC 1800's Hi-Z? if you can swing it, get the 2150's. You can grow into those and will almost never run out of fuel ( until you start approaching the 800+ whp range)
 
If you run 2 fans, run 2 relays triggered by the same source. The factory relay is meant for 1 fan and 2 will draw more current than that relay is rated for, just to clarify.
On my 1g, I don't have enuf room to run a puller on the drivers side so it is a Spal pusher fan.

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It's a killer turbo, stick with the twin scroll, you'll love it. I just made 460HP with my hx35 on a bone stock motor. Walbro 450, 1000cc injectors. I did like 4 install videos that will give you a general idea of a few of the things involved. Just search "Hx35 dsm turbo upgrade" on youtube.


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Just watched the videos thank you great channel you have setup

Also emmison
Most downpipes for the vband housings are custom and normally not cheap. Check out Morrison Fabrication. They sell a hot parts kit. I'm unsure if they sell the downpipe alone. Your parts list is pretty good. I would upgrade head studs to arp and make sure all the maintenance is good. Like the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. Are you keeping emissions related stuff? Also, are you running a stock motor?

I had all the preventive maintenance done. And my 20g actually spun a rod bearing. I currently make 530whp with a hx35. Just be careful. I'm using DSMLink for the boost control.

Another part you didn't mention was cooling. I have custom rad setup. But you might need a 1g rad in your 2g. The factory fans won't fit. You can fit 1 but not both. Make sure you have a good fan
Also
Most downpipes for the vband housings are custom and normally not cheap. Check out Morrison Fabrication. They sell a hot parts kit. I'm unsure if they sell the downpipe alone. Your parts list is pretty good. I would upgrade head studs to arp and make sure all the maintenance is good. Like the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. Are you keeping emissions related stuff? Also, are you running a stock motor?

I had all the preventive maintenance done. And my 20g actually spun a rod bearing. I currently make 530whp with a hx35. Just be careful. I'm using DSMLink for the boost control.

Another part you didn't mention was cooling. I have custom rad setup. But you might need a 1g rad in your 2g. The factory fans won't fit. You can fit 1 but not both. Make sure you have a good fan.
Also emissions is not a problem car is/ will be fully track driven.
 
I do have a aftermarket intake. However it's not needed. The stock one is capable. I have a s90 throttle body but a 1g tb is a upgrade for 2g. Also 2g have less room for fans than 1g. If you look at my rad, I tucked it under the support.

The last thing I forgot to ad, make sure your oil drain is correct. It needs to be -12 or 3/4. Morrison sells a kit for it. Kind of a tight fit but the drain is important.
 
+2 on the @MorrisonFab drain, I have 2 since 2 cars are running Holsets. They are a real nice piece and a lot easier to work with than a big -12AN line. :thumb:
 
Instead of putting $400 into a single-scroll T3 turbine housing and still needing a suitable manifold I'd keep the housing it came with and look into getting a properly-built twin-scroll manifold to match. Those non-gated 12cm2 or 14cm2 factory HX35 housings aren't easy to find, and yours actually came with one.
 
My son's DSM is running the setup that Jus is talking about and it spools soo good.
Good advice @JusMX141 :thumb:
 
Those non-gated 12cm2 or 14cm2 factory HX35 housings aren't easy to find, and yours
My son's DSM is running the setup that Jus is talking about and it spools soo good.
Good advice @JusMX141 :thumb:
actually came with one.
I didnt know they are hard to find. I have a 12cm housing and I believe the 14cm. Is there also a 16 and 18cm? Either way, I tried both housings and I saw about a 400 rpm spool difference between them. I'm running a true twin scroll.

There is a thread or comment somewhere posted by bastarddsm (I think that's the name) where he talks about different setups. I believe the result was a open housing was better? I'll have to find the thread and link it here.
 
I was not aware those factory housings are getting hard to find. I have a hand full laying around. Few hx35's too.
I doubt they're non-wastegated. I just scrapped about 20 wastegated ones earlier this year and probably have 30 more still here. The non-gated 12cm2 3524123 housings you will not find used anywhere and are about $250 new.

There is a thread or comment somewhere posted by bastarddsm (I think that's the name) where he talks about different setups. I believe the result was a open housing was better? I'll have to find the thread and link it here.
Single-scroll will always outflow twin-scroll of the same a/r and twin-scroll will always outspool single-scroll of the same a/r when properly set up.
 
From my experience twin-scroll can be a good option for a street orientated car. For most all out drag cars that will see some street open scroll usually ends up the way to go as spool is not much of a issue.
 
From my experience twin-scroll can be a good option for a street orientated car. For most all out drag cars that will see some street open scroll usually ends up the way to go as spool is not much of a issue.
For what it's worth, I tried the 12cm housing and a larger one, both twin scroll. The only change was shifting the powerband 400ish rpm later. I hit 35psi but towards 6500ish the boost falls off. I'm maxing my 7blade out. Hx40 is a better move in my opinion. A hx40 in a twin is probably the best setup.
 
I messed around with the hx35 back in the day quite a bit, and I could never get it to make any power as a twin scroll. The car trapped around 120 on a 14cm ts housing on an open manifold at 25psi, and it took over 35psi to do it on a twin scroll 12cm setup. I've learned a lot since then, so maybe i should revisit it, but it'll probably be an HX40 in a garrett housing if I do.

Learning what I've learned over the years, I don't think I would recommend a ts setup on something as small as a hx35 unless you were trying to autocross it or something. Unless you find one of the old 21cm t/s housings it'll just make too much torque and not do well at high rpm. Hard on transmissions, clutches, cranks, ect....
 
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