How's this set up...

[cHz]

I haven't looked around for the lowest price, but this will be going on a 1g DSM. I'm pretty new to DSM's so help me out, I'm sure I'm missing a few things but I tried to get it all and I probably got some things I don't need...

- HKS SSQV BOV Kit
- Greddy PRofec B-Spec II Boost Controller
- ACT Heavy Duty (2100) Clutch Kit + Flywheel
- AEM Tru-Time Cam Gears
- AEM Tru-Power Pulley Kit
- NGK Hyper Silicone Racing Power Cables
- NGK "Race" Copper Spark Plugs BPR9ES
- Extreme PSI 3.00" Intake
- Walboro 255lph HP Fuel Pump
- FIC 650cc Injectors
- A'PEXi S-AFCII
- ARP Headstuds + Cometic Headgasket
- Extreme PSI (GARRET) STREET Core FMIC Kit
- Lotek Triple Pillar Pod
- Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge
- Autometer Cobalt Oil Pressure Gauge
- Autometer Cobalt Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
- Fidanza Short Throw Shifter
- DN Performance Exhaust Manifold
- Venom Intake Drag Manifold
- Mitsubishi TD05H-EVOIII 16G-7CM Turbo
- Custom 3" Turboback Exhaust

 

[OnMyWayTo12Secs]

all looks good, but if your gonna put allll that money in it, why not make it dynamite and do internals. Also, you don't need cam gears without aftermarket cams. aftermarket cam gears would just be a bling option, but hey if you got the money more power. But i would DEF look into some pistons and new rods!

Chris

 

[spoolup]

A few things I would change, like listed above, the cam gears are not needed wil this setup. I say skip these ane the money elsewhere. Also the trupulleys, skip those as well. The crank pulley on a 4G63 has a built in balancer via a rubber band, the AEMs do not use htis and the others are about worthless. Sorry.

The 650s are a big injector for this setup, true you can use them incase you decide ot upgrade but you MAY run into problems on getting a good tune and keeping timing in check, due ot how much you are going to have to alter the airflow to bring them in. I think you would see timing as high as 23* trying to get some good o2s. NEXT the venom mani has had some leaking issues in the past. Feel free and use it if you like but there are SEVERAL betters out there. But all points asside the stock mani would be applicable for this setup. And you can find them used for $10. The DNP ex mani are awesome. I recommend them regulary. But again the stock 2g mani/ o2 housing ported out would suitable for your setup as well.

As for the gauges, the AF ratio gauge IS worthless. They sell modified ones tht only read from 0.80 to 1.00V which are "more" accurate since there is better resolution but the sensor is still subpar. Save your money and buy a EGT for a littlem ore.

Useing a 255HP you ARE going to overrun the stock FPR so you will want to upgrade, I recomomend Aeromotive 6AN. There is a thread within the last week on people mounting theres. Check it out and get some ideas. And dont forget the gauge for that (it can mount on the AFPR housing).

The 16G has a 2" inlet, so you will need a 2" to 3" coupler for your turbo, They cost about $30 so dont forget the little things like this and the install pieces, new gaskets. ECT.

NGK BPR9ES is WAY to cold for your setup, I think 6 or 7s are more than adiquate. And last but not least. where is the loggin software? the pocketlogger will work.

I would actually add cams to this list, some FP1 or 264's would be a nice addition and give a bit more top end. Saving the money from the ex mani, pulleys, and intake mani, will more than pay for the EGT and cams.

Dont forget suspension, and time behind the wheel. The #1 thing I see is people throwing parts at a car and still running 14s. Be pataince and dont jump in head first, test the water. Oh and upgrade your profile please. Thanks. Happy boosting.

 

[spoolup]

Ohh and regardless of the previous post, That setup is still pretty mild, keeping a good tune and keeping up on the maintinace you SHOULD not dynamite your engine. HOWEVER I did see a local welt a valve on a stock T25 from not tuning properly. Follow the tuingi guide found here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58403

 

[cHz]

Alright, thanks. I planned on taking it to a dyno and get professionally tuned. I was thinking about picking up EPROM ECU and DSMLink. I wouldnt need SAFC-II then would I?

 

[spoolup]

no, DSMlink is a tuning program and logging program in one (it actually does more but that will come later). The SAFC just allows you to control airflow which tricks the ECU to add or remove fuel. so if you go with DSMlink you do not need a SAFC.

 

[cHz]

What exactly is EGT? Would I want an AEM Uego Wideband?

 

[spoolup]

EGT is Exhaust Gas Temp, its a probe that you drill into your exhaust mani that allows you to monitor the temp of the exhaust pules leaving the engine. Greddy makes the more commonly used EGT on a DSM (they have a PHW peak hold warning that saves the peak EG tyou have reached since last reset, and has aoutput for a warning light if wanted), but IMHO their probes suck, it cost me to lose my T28 after 2 weeks when the seath fell off and dropped thru the spinning turbo. OUCH. But TRE sells a nice probe that you can replace with the greddy probe. There are several posts on EGTs here.

AEM Uego, PLX, innovative, and a few other make widebands. I like the PLX since they have several packages avaliable and DSMlink supports a optional input for them (they also support the use of several other loggable aux funtions. Greddy bost gauge, mitsu oil temp, delphi/ GM and AEM map sensors, various widebands, turbo XS boost reference, the list really goes on.)

The widebands are not REQUIRED but VERY bennifical. There are several posts on them. Here is a parts list fro this site on widebands: http://www.dsmtuners.com/parts/default.php?cPath=3_175_182

 

[cHz]

Alright, thanks. For the fuel pump/fpr, the 255 will work the 6AN, right? From extremepsi, do I need the installation kit? it's $80 more.

 

[cHz]

Is the GReddy PRofec e-01 Boost Controller worth the extra $200 over the PRofec B-Spec II?

 

[spoolup]

I would say no, but at the same time I would say that the prof b is not worth the money it cost either, and yes I have one. I do not know if your 1G is FWD or AWD, but I am FWD. I have actually just bought a turboXS dual stage with ball and spring 1st stage, and will be using that in the new setup (engine is in the garage tomorrow YEAH). But currenlty Im using the prof b spec2 and the "remote switch control" to toggle low/high boost between my 1-2 shift. But its a handfull and being radio operated it does not always work or I endup pushing the controller around the backside of the steeringwheel. But using the turbo XS I can wire it into the unused FPR solenoid plug on my firewall and using DSMlink and its nitrous controls dialog screen I can have the ECU toggle between low/high boost based off of throttle position, RPM, knock, speed ect. So I know EXCATLY when I will hit high boost. Lets say 45MPH, but at a throttle limit of 80% or higher, if I overrev the BC will toggle to low, and if I have excesive knock, it will switch to low boost. Being FWD this featuer is awesome and makes it a little easier to drive.

But EBCs can also be nice, like limiting a boost spike controlling the gain, set point, ect. The old prof B is a great BC but for somereason I have not liked this new one, it is hard to keep boost constant, it changes with extreme temp changes, and it sucks when you do a pull against a C5 or similar and the car never leaves low boost. But for AWD and these changes not really mattering it may be great. Plus you have ot runa vacuum line into the car to the back of the control unit. Another source for leaks ect. K.I.S.S. has never made more sense than here. Again this is just my preference.

 

[cHz]

I'll be AWD. Well, I'd like an EBC, if not the Greddy, any other suggestions?