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2G How to remove IOD? And test its fuses?

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waltah

10+ Year Contributor
368
156
Mar 2, 2011
fairfield, Virginia
There's a square yellow looks-like-a-plug in the lower left of the 2g engine compartment fuse block. It's called the I.O.D. and contains two fuses, one of which (F11 on diagrams) supplies power to the ECU. (Like ... important, right?)

How do you test those fuses? They seem to be regular blade fuses but the tops are mostly covered so they can't be tested where they are.

And how do you remove the IOD? The answer may be 'apply more brute force' but sometimes when I do that it doesn't turn out very well.

And for a whole bunch extra points, what does I.O.D. stand for? It's an abbreviation for something and in other models of '90s Mitsubishi you pull it out in order to disable everything but essential circuits to operate the car so the battery doesn't run down so quickly during storage. I've no idea what its function is in 2g Eclipse since pulling it seems likely to disable the ECU (via loss of power to pin 80) and thus disable the engine.
 
There's a square yellow looks-like-a-plug in the lower left of the 2g engine compartment fuse block. It's called the I.O.D. and contains two fuses, one of which (F11 on diagrams) supplies power to the ECU. (Like ... important, right?)
I'm guessing you dont' have the cover. Those fuses are for the radio and the dome light
Here is a pic
How do you test those fuses? They seem to be regular blade fuses but the tops are mostly covered so they can't be tested where they are.
I don't have info on how to remove the cover
And how do you remove the IOD? The answer may be 'apply more brute force' but sometimes when I do that it doesn't turn out very well.

And for a whole bunch extra points, what does I.O.D. stand for? It's an abbreviation for something and in other models of '90s Mitsubishi you pull it out in order to disable everything but essential circuits to operate the car so the battery doesn't run down so quickly during storage. I've no idea what its function is in 2g Eclipse since pulling it seems likely to disable the ECU (via loss of power to pin 80) and thus disable the engine.
Ignition off draw.
radio needs power to keep presets and dome light works even with key off.
 
Test the fuses with a DMM. It won't "think" it is a good one when one isn't.
Visual inspection isn't good enough.
 
Ignition Off Draw = I.O.D. One thing about being old is there are things of no importance at all that you've wondered about for decades. Well, I.O.D. is one of mine -- thanks, Paul.

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This is the view from just above the passenger headlight with it pushed in so the two fuses (and thus the Radio, Room Light, and -- subject to confirmation later -- ECU memory voltage on pin 80 and more) are connected.

Steve's write up for debugging of the ECU and MFI start up process here:


says pin 80 gets power from the #19 multi-function fuse but at least in the '97 Talon manual I have and -- I think -- in my '95 GS-T it comes from dedicated fuse #11 which is the right hand fuse of the two in the I.O.D. connector as you face the front of the engine compartment relay block. I believe this fuse also supplies a whole bunch of other stuff: In addition to the room lights and door ajar warnings, the auto transmission, scan tool (pin 16 of the OBD II connector), luggage compartment and every darn thing that has a memory function are supplied from this fuse.

What does the cruise control have to 'remember'? But its computer is said ('97 Talon manual) to be one of the dependents on dedicated fuse #11.

The fuse on the left (seen from front) is #12 and I believe it supplies only the radio and central door locking loads.

Checking stuff like this out is more complicated than you'd think because on this parts car most of it doesn't work anyway!

Also I think there is no #19 multi-function fuse in the '95 GS-T and other 2g cars -- that fuse block stops at #17.

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This is the view when pulled straight up until it clicks in place with the fuses disconnected so all those full-time draws are shut off. You can see the red 10A fuses in there.

Pulling somewhat harder pulls the thing completely out and I'm pretty sure the fuses can be changed. The top looks to have one of those hinged-on-one-side, hooked-on-the-other schemes and it should be just a matter of figuring out exactly what tool and where to stick it to get it open.
 
Steve's write up for debugging of the ECU and MFI start up process here:


says pin 80 gets power from the #19 multi-function fuse but at least in the '97 Talon manual I have and -- I think -- in my '95 GS-T it comes from dedicated fuse #11 which is the right hand fuse of the two in the I.O.D. connector as you face the front of the engine compartment relay block.

Thanks, not sure where I pulled 19 from. It is #11 from the relay box in the engine bay. I've updated the incorrect information.

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This is the view when pulled straight up until it clicks in place with the fuses disconnected so all those full-time draws are shut off. You can see the red 10A fuses in there.

Pulling somewhat harder pulls the thing completely out and I'm pretty sure the fuses can be changed. The top looks to have one of those hinged-on-one-side, hooked-on-the-other schemes and it should be just a matter of figuring out exactly what tool and where to stick it to get it open.

The IOD connector is also referred to as the shipping connector, they pull these at the factory and the dealership pushes them in when they are doing pre-delivery prep.

The fuses might slide in from the side of the holder if you need to change them.
 
There's a square yellow looks-like-a-plug in the lower left of the 2g engine compartment fuse block. It's called the I.O.D. and contains two fuses, one of which (F11 on diagrams) supplies power to the ECU. (Like ... important, right?)

How do you test those fuses? They seem to be regular blade fuses but the tops are mostly covered so they can't be tested where they are.

And how do you remove the IOD? The answer may be 'apply more brute force' but sometimes when I do that it doesn't turn out very well.

And for a whole bunch extra points, what does I.O.D. stand for? It's an abbreviation for something and in other models of '90s Mitsubishi you pull it out in order to disable everything but essential circuits to operate the car so the battery doesn't run down so quickly during storage. I've no idea what its function is in 2g Eclipse since pulling it seems likely to disable the ECU (via loss of power to pin 80) and thus disable the engine.

IOD is Ignition-Off Draw (Ref: IOD Meaning). Maybe this link help you Where Is the IOD Fuse Located? (Complete Guide)
 
It is also commonly refered to Parasitic Draw. When something is pulling amps but the key key is off.
 
Thanks, not sure where I pulled 19 from. It is #11 from the relay box in the engine bay. I've updated the incorrect information.
It's #19 in the multi-purpose fuse block for the 1g's isn't it?
The IOD connector is also referred to as the shipping connector, they pull these at the factory and the dealership pushes them in when they are doing pre-delivery prep.
An improvement over my 1g Expos: In those cars you have to pull the IOD connector out to switch that stuff off, then you put it back in upside down for storage. In the 2g Eclipse you just pull it up to the detent notch ... less chance for it to get lost and you can see immediately that it's up = off.
The fuses might slide in from the side of the holder if you need to change them.
That's the secret. Push firmly with something like a 2mm punch from the opposite side to the one visible in the photo and they slide right out through that slot. I'll leave that fuse out since the car came without a radio and central door door locking will have to wait for installation of working latches, lock cylinders, and lock cylinder switches.

Yeah ... a hard life up to this point.

I have full-time power on pin 80 and IGN-1 power to 82, CEL bulb is good, but no CEL and no start so I think the ECU is dead. There's plenty else to work on while waiting for that.

The non-working hand brake was easy -- it just needed adjustment.

Thanks everyone!
 
It's #19 in the multi-purpose fuse block for the 1g's isn't it?

Yep #19 in the junction block at the driver foot, looks like a copy paste mistake when I first wrote the 2g version from the original. With all the other differences I missed that one.
 
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