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How to properly mount your 2g Rear Diff

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Load bolts installed, subframe holes cut and diff reinstalled. Fits like a glove!
 
I will get some in a bit -- I didn't like the endplay values I had on the diff as I swapped to an Evo 3 clutch-type rear diff. Pinion angle is fine, but the lash is a bit high for my liking. Let me get that completed, and then I will post up pics of the diff installed on the subframe. The subframe is staying off the car for a bit because I need to install Andrew Kisner's fuel cell prototype for fitment, and need to do some sheet metal cutting of the spare tire well and some panel work.
 
I'm currently working on a set of diff mounts with the poly bushings for you street warriors.
 
Got to drive the car and it's really not that loud whatsoever. My exhaust trumpets the sound. Launching feels much more solid. There was this "thud" I was hearing before and that's totally gone. Waiting on a set of slicks to really put the abuse on them to see if the diff cover holds up.
 
thought I post up some pics of my installed diff mounts. Thanks for making these. Very nice. I kno wi'm not the best welder. I'm happy though.

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That's going to be loud as hell.

The car will never be on the street so that is of no concern. The dog box will be loud, open exhaust will be loud the all metal bushing will be loud. Little to no interior will be loud.

Weld looks a little cold. I do like the gloves though =)

I was think this actually. I'm very new to welding so thanks for the constructive input.

Kevin
 
This is a good idea however I'd rather not pull the whole rear end apart to weld a tab and put a bracket on. It would be easier and cheaper to just get a diff cover. Or what if you did just one of these mounts?
 
This is a good idea however I'd rather not pull the whole rear end apart to weld a tab and put a bracket on. It would be easier and cheaper to just get a diff cover. Or what if you did just one of these mounts?

People have broke the stock diff covers with replacing the OEM bushing with solid units.
The after market diff covers are nice. However, one of them has less fluid capacity and the other was 200 more than this solution. Since almost every other Mitsu AWD platform has the diff mounted on both sides of the snout and my car is torn all the way down, I went this direction to stop the pinion climb.
 
The seams are welded three inches out on both sides of the diff mount. Then inch on inch offf with the spot welds inbetween.

Nice job going back and re-doing those welds, it will be nice to not have to worry about them. The gusset is a nice addition as well. In the future for you, the general rule of thumb for running multiple welds is 2x the length of the weld for the pitch. So 1" weld, 2" of no weld. Less than that, might as well run the whole thing because you are just making more areas for potential cracks.
 
Sorry if bringing back the thread. I am doing a DD Street/Track car that will have full interior but about 650 WHP. I am currently at the point of deciding which route to take as far as the rear diff. I have 2 rear sub frames, one with solid alum bushings and the other is the old UMS style alum with urethane insert. So 2 questions. Would it be worth my time, money, and car to get the solid sub frame bushings you have in your pics greengoblin and twicks6? And also would I benefit from this rear diff "upgrade"? Obviously noise isnt a factor as I have full solid urethane mounts on the entire car and the damn thing might as well be a full race car. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

Nic
 
Sorry if bringing back the thread. I am doing a DD Street/Track car that will have full interior but about 650 WHP. I am currently at the point of deciding which route to take as far as the rear diff. I have 2 rear sub frames, one with solid alum bushings and the other is the old UMS style alum with urethane insert. So 2 questions. Would it be worth my time, money, and car to get the solid sub frame bushings you have in your pics greengoblin and twicks6? And also would I benefit from this rear diff "upgrade"? Obviously noise isnt a factor as I have full solid urethane mounts on the entire car and the damn thing might as well be a full race car. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

Nic

You could solid mount the 3 stock mounting points as much as you want and the diff will still twist around the passenger mount and break the cover. If you plan on launching this car at all with 650 whp these mounts are a must.
 
Well ill definitely be upgrading it was just a question of the route. So far with the bracing this looks to be a better solution than say the Frontline 5 Point Rear Diff Cover only because this stops the front and not just the rear from twisting. Then again I could be wrong??
 
Well ill definitely be upgrading it was just a question of the route. So far with the bracing this looks to be a better solution than say the Frontline 5 Point Rear Diff Cover only because this stops the front and not just the rear from twisting. Then again I could be wrong??

Correct. I've driven my car without the diff cover bolts and the aluminum front mounts installed without any problems. I don't recommend doing this but it is possible!
 
Yes I've just been really busy lately. Is there a lot of interest in the poly version?
 
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