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1G How To Install Evo LSD into 1G DSM/GVR4

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Evo 8 Rear Diff Install

The purpose of this is to go from a Viscous Coupler to a Clutch type. This is a fairly easy swap to do and it will take a bit of time. There are 2 ways of doing this.

1. Leave rear sub-frame in and do the swap in the car.
2. Remove sub-frame and take out the rear diff housing and do it on the bench.

I went with option 2 because I was replacing all my subframe bushings and installing my Whiteline rear sway bar. This will be a good breakdown of everything you need and factory specs to follow. Let’s begin!

Note:
· If you would like to retain your 4WS on your Galant VR4. Stop right here! You can’t keep the pump ring on the diff.

Things you will need:

· 4 bolt axles and cups
· Evo 8 Diff with inner cups
· CV Axle grease
· CV Straps with tool.
· Diff Paint for checking back lash
· Back lash dial.
· Tools
· Torque Wrench
· LSD Rear diff fluid or Mitsubishi Diaqueen

Removing Rear Subframe.

1. Jack up car

2. Pull Rear Wheels off

3. Drain Rear diff Fluid (yes this is a step because some people forget to do this.)

4. Remove the rear Caliper and attach it to something (If you leave the rear shocks in you can zip tie the rear calipers to the rear springs.)
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5. Remove Rear E-brake Cable from brake caliper and from the subframe. I disconnected them all and moved the cable to the top of everything so it is out of my way.

6. Now you can either remove the rear shock or just disconnect the lower mount of the shock off of the trailing arm.

7. IF YOU HAVE ABS- there are two plugs under the car near the E-brake cables at the tunnel. Just disconnect those and make sure they are not secured to the car in any way.
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8. Remove the 4 Bolts/Nuts from the driveshaft at the rear diff.

9. Put your jack or a transmission jack under the rear diff.

a. Two or three people would make the next steps easier

10. Remove the 2 nuts going up into the frame of the car at the mustache bar.

11. Remove the 2 bolts for the subframe then remove the 2 nuts and take off the cross member bracket.

12. The rear subframe should be completely free. Now just remove it by going down and back as much as you can and lower the subframe.

a. Keep an eye on the driveshaft. It will most likely get caught by the rear sway bar.

b. It helps to rotate the whole thing to remove the whole assembly

13. Now its out!!!!

14. Now remove the mustache bar from the back of the diff.

15. Remove the 4 bolts/nuts for each of the axles and pull the axles.

16. Remove the two bolts on top and the two bolts behind the lower control arms.

17. Now your rear diff is free.

Evo 8 Diff Prep.

If you would like to do the plate swap here is a guide to do it. The advantage of this is for the rear to lock and allow the car to over steer instead of under steer.

1. Remove the Drive Gear from the housing.
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2. Mark the case so it goes back together the same way. I just scribed a line on the side.

3. Remove the 4 screws to open up the case.

a. If you can’t turn them easy I would use a Hand Impact tool to loosen screws. Don’t need to smack it hard. Hit it just enough to break them free and make sure the tip fits snug into the screw. Don’t need to round them out and make your life harder.
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4. Once removed you can take the cover off. I put the housing side down and removed everything 1 by 1 and wiped them all down.
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5. Now to restack the plates

a. A plate has 4 tabs out. A clutch has 4 tabs in. Outside Plate is smooth on one side.

b. The factory setup is: Outside Plate, Plate, Plate, Clutch, Clutch, Plate, Pinion Gears, Plate, Clutch, Clutch, Plate, Plate, Outer Plate.

c. Restack Setup: Outside Plate, Plate, Clutch, Plate, Clutch, Plate, Pinion Gears, Plate, Clutch, Plate, Clutch, Plate, Outer Plate.
Factory Setup
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6. Now 1 by 1 put them back into the case. I would put some fresh oil on them. (Whatever diff oil you will be using. Must be LSD diff fluid. Mitsubishi Diaqueen is the best)

7. Put the differential case cover back on and tighten down the 4 screws by hand.

a. Verify that the clutches are seated in there correctly and not sitting higher than the case.

8. Now to remove your DSM Differential case

Swapping to Evo 8 Diff

1. Remove the 8 bolts from the rear diff cover

2. Remove the 4 bolts for the bearing cap

a. Be sure to keep them on the side they came off of.

3. Now remove the rear diff.

a. Be sure to keep the bearings and side bearing spacers with the correct sides.

4. Now take off the DSM drive gear and put it on your Evo Diff Case.

a. Bolt Torque: 58-65 ft-lbs

b. Use Lock Tight on bolts.

5. Now put the DSM Bearings on the Evo diff and put the Evo Diff case half way in. Take your shims and put them on each side. It’s going to be a tight fit so use a small rubber mallet to help push in everything. Make sure it goes in evenly

6. Put you caps on and torque down.

a. Bolt Torque: 29-43 ft-lbs.
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b. Your back lash should be fine but if you want to check it use the paint and gauge to check it. Look at pictures for directions.

7. Now your half way there. If you have a new breather now would be a good time to replace it.

8. Prep the diff and put some sealant on the diff cover and put your 8 cover bolts in. Let setup then torque down.

a. Bolt Torque: 22-30 ft-lbs

9. Now to change your axles to make them work. Break the straps off of your inner cups. Try not to rip the boot.

10. Remove the inner cups and take your Evo inner cups and switch them over.

a. The tri-Bearing is the same on the Evo and DSM. So if yours is bad you can swap it over. Or if its good you can keep them for later if it goes out.

b. Put some CV grease in the cup and then put them together.
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c. Take your new CV strap and tighten down the boot to the cup.
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11. Now install your diff into your rear subframe.

Install Diff and Subframe

1. Put diff back up into Subframe and put the two top bolts in then put your side ones in.

a. Bolt torque: 72-87 ft-lbs

2. Attach the mustache bar back on and torque the bolts

a. Bolt torque: 58-72 ft-lbs

3. Put the axles in and torque down. Make sure the axle clips lock into place.

a. Bolt/Nut Torque: 40-47 ft-lbs

4. Fill you diff with fluid

a. Gear Fluid Quantity: 0.7 Qts

5. Now time to put everything back up into the car. Put it reverse of how it came out and it should be easy to do. Remember that the driveshaft will get in your way.

6. Once you have everything lined up and the bolts through torque the nuts down.

a. Mustache Bar Nut Torque: 80-94 ft-lbs

b. Cross Member Bracket Nut Torque: 80-94 ft-lbs

c. Cross Member Bolt Torque: 51-61 ft-lbs

7. Now that the rear subframe is in, attach everything else.

a. Struts

i. Upper Bolt Torque: 29-36 ft-lbs
ii. Lower Bolt Torque: 65-85 ft-lbs

b. Rear Calipers and E-brake cable

i. Lower bolt Torque: 16-24 ft-lbs
ii. E-brake Cable Holder Bolts Torque: 7-10 ft-lbs

c. Drive Shaft

i. Bolt/Nut Torque: 22-25 ft-lbs

d. Clip in your Wheel Speed Sensors.

8. Attach wheels and lower car down.

9. Your all done Enjoy your new tail happy DSM/Galant VR4

Difference Between the Evo and the 4 Bolt Axle Cups
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My Broken Housing
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Checking Backlash
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Good Luck Everyone!
If you have any questions or improvements I should add feel free to message me.

I am not responsible/liable for any damages to your car while trying this modification that is not a factory setup. Just putting it in to cover myself.
 
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