The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

420A How to get rid of you CEL after doing an EGR valve delete

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ok, so most of you who plan on going turbo or just done it anyway have deleted your EGR valve. Doing this will cause your computer to throw you CEL on and off since it is trying to compensate for something that simply isn't there anymore.

There is a simple solution for fixing this.

First purchase a set of EGR block off plates and install them and block off any open vacuum lines. Then pick up a resistor from any electronics store or Radioshack. I used a 100 ohm/10 amp resistor that came in a pack of 2 for about 3$. Make sure it has the metal pins that stick out on both sides of it.

Locate your EGR sensor inside your bay (should be a red/black clip with to holes on it. Bend the two clips on the resistor to fit into the sensor and push it all the way in.

Finally get some electrical tape and wrap both the resistor and sensor going back onto the wire making sure to overlap more than once. Try starting your car and once the ECU tries to shoot the signal the resistor will shoot it right back blocking it off and permanently keeping it off instead of using a scan tool to erase it every few hundred miles.
 
I have been doing a lot of research on set ups after deleting the EGR valve and without luck I haven't found anyone that was successful in keeping the CEL off after removing it.

I was even debating on putting it back on since my car began idling rough and high rpms. After checking all vacuum leaks and everything was blocked off properly the issue still remained with the signal caused by the sensor. I was planning on removing the sensor but didn't want to risk it.

That's when my friend at work told me try blocking it off. He insisted the code kept coming up because the wire was unplugged and needed something to shoot back at the ECU. Long story short he tried several things but was only successful with a resistor being plugged into the sensor.

I went with a 10 watt 50 ohm resistor with 50% resistance. These can easily be purchased at radio shack and come in a 2pack for about 2-3$. They look like this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


If you don't remember what the plug looks like, its a oval plug with two holes, should be red and black located just under the throttle body/intake piping. I bent the two metal wires to fit into the holes of the plug. (tried to find a pic of the plug but had no luck and its too cold at the moment to go take one)

Once you fit the prongs inside the sensor simply secure the resistor to the sensor with some electrical tape. After doing this I was skeptical about the code so i drove the car for a while and still no CEL. 4 days has gone by and still no CEL and my rough idle is also gone.

It is pretty simple to do and if you have any questions feel free to inbox me.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So do plug it in too the plug on wiring harness or the sensor
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top