How to Gap & Install Spark Plugs for Newbies.

[EDM95]

Step 1
Remove the spark plug wires. Use a spark plug wrench to remove the spark plugs from their chambers.

Step 2
Clean the spark plug if you are not replacing it with a new one. Remove all dirt and debris from the spark plug. If your doing all this you might as well replace them.

Step 3
Check the owner's manual for your car to find out the recommended gap setting, or call your parts store and ask what is the recommended gap setting for your year car.

Step 4
Use a gap tool to check the gap of the spark plug. Slip the tool between the ground electrode and center electrode. The gap tool should fit snugly at the recommended gap width indicated on the tool.

Step 5
Push the tool between the electrodes a few times to ensure proper gap. If the gap is too wide, push the ground electrode firmly against a flat surface to narrow the gap and then check again with the gap tool.

Step 6
Repeat Step 5 as necessary until you reach the correct gap. apply antil-seize lubricant around threads of the plugs reseat the spark plug and reattach the spark plug wires.

 

[crimsondragon]

For the record, I use a 11/16" deep well socket to remove my spark plugs. The recommended gap setting for a turbo'ed 4g63 is .028". Please use a feeler or wire gauge. Do not use a ramp gauge. The way ramp is set up could cause incorrect gap. If the feeler has a slight drag when being pulled through the electrodes, it is the correct gap. When reinstalling the plugs, the way I do it is to drop the plugs in carefully, take the socket and drop it over the plug. I then counter clockwise turn it to reset the threads before I torque them to 17 ft*lbs. This will lessen the chance of accidentally crossthreading which could be a real bi***. Use antiseize on the threads moderately. You want to coat the threads but not so much it'll squeeze out into the combustion chamber. Just a dab on threads will do. When you're torquing them, the lubricant will spread around the rest of the threads. If you do not use antiseize, you risk damaging the cylinder head threads. Worst case scenario I've heard is the threads of the plugs being pulled off, in which case, you might as well get a new head.

 

[DSM1G90]

If you get a Sears Craftsman spark plug socket (it's a 13/16"), it has a foam rubber insert that you can put the plug in and the foam holds the plug into the socket.

Then, you have a 10inch extension on the end of the socket and you can lower the combination into the plug well and use the extension like a screwdriver to begin the plug into the hole until snug.

Doing this procedure does two things: get's the plug end directly into the hole without chance of banging the end on a flat surface to where the gap can be altered and: (2)-by turning it slowly by hand, you can tell if you're gonna crossthread the plug to the hole and you can back it out and redo the start.

This prevents any crossthreading of the plug to the hole since we are dealing with aluminum heads (and this procedure is good for any head - auto and motorcycle - so you don't cross thread the head)

Then when snug, you can add the socket wrench to the extension to torque it down to specs.

I never use that anti-seize stuff - just make sure that you pull plugs on occasion to chek gap and conditions.

I can see using anti-sieze if you plan on keeping those plugs in their holes for 100k miles or so.

-DSM

 

[Defiant]

Well, thanks. But:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/174130-how-gap-your-spark-plugs.html

Spark plug manufacturers say to not use anti-seize. I've never heard a good story about why not.

 

[crimsondragon]

I heard its always a good idea to use antiseize.You mean when I couldn't find my one tube of it and the plugs were out, I could of just thrown them back in with no problems?

 

[Defiant]

The manufacturers of spark plugs say the plating on the plug body obviates the need for anti-seize. I've never run across a "seized" plug that wasn't cross-threaded instead of seized, and I've only had two of those- both by dealers.
I WD-40 both the plug threads and especially the plug boots.

 

[Locke]

I've never used anti-seize on spark plugs. I do, though, put a dab of dielectric grease in the boots to keep the moisture out.

My spark-plug sockets lost their inserts years ago - I use a piece of fuel line to both remove the old plug and to start threading the new one.

 

[DSMunknown]

Someone might want to consider mentioning the "crush" washer that sits on the bottom of the threads. This directly pertains to how the plugs seal to the aluminum head. We have the "hand tighten & 1/8th of a turn (or is it 1/16th?) with a breaker bar" but that may not be enough.

Not completely detrimental to performance, but something to take note of.

 

[crimsondragon]

Finally found the thread where I learned to use antiseize.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ing-spark-plugs-hot-engine.html#post151296525
He does make a point about the different expansion rates. I would imagine over time from reusing the spark plugs, the plating would wear off.

 

[LTUDSM]

if you don't know how to gap the spark plugs or even change them,then DSM is not for you

 

[DSM1G90]

hand tighten & 1/8th of a turn (or is it 1/16th?) with a breaker bar

the 1/8th is for plugs with the crush washer and the 1/16h is for tapered base (no washer) plugs (like GM plugs and similar).

?? Why the need on continuing to pull plugs ?? Get the gap set right and leave them in there.

-DSM

 

[crimsondragon]

the 1/8th is for plugs with the crush washer and the 1/16h is for tapered base (no washer) plugs (like GM plugs and similar).

?? Why the need on continuing to pull plugs ?? Get the gap set right and leave them in there.

-DSM

It doesn't hurt to pull the plugs monthly to check the plug gap. It's also good to pull them and check them out. Plugs can tell you a lot of things about your motor. Also a compression test every now and then will determine the health of your rings/valves. You can also take a can of Seafoam and clean the carbon off the top of the pistons.

 

[Defiant]

I would imagine over time from reusing the spark plugs, the plating would wear off.

"Re-use"? For a buck-fifty? Nope. If they're coming out, they aren't going back in.

Then again, I'm not sure I've replaced plugs this century.

 

[debbie]

The manufacturers of spark plugs say the plating on the plug body obviates the need for anti-seize. I've never run across a "seized" plug that wasn't cross-threaded instead of seized, and I've only had two of those- both by dealers.
I WD-40 both the plug threads and especially the plug boots.

I new a guy many moons ago who was a self taught mechanic, and not many mechanics self taught or trained could hold a torch to this guy, he said the same thing about WD40 on the threads, I’ve done this ever since and never had a difficult spark plug since.

DSMunknown mentioned using a breaker bar I would be careful on that as the head is aluminium and the plugs are metal, ideally you would use nothing more than a speed brace?

 

[donswan]

I watched a guy break a spark plug while it was in the hole, not so good for him. I got it out for him and showed him the antiseize so that it wouldn't happen again.

 

[DSM1G90]

It doesn't hurt to pull the plugs monthly to check the plug gap

True, (got in a haste there..), just that comment of "I would imagine over time from reusing the spark plugs, the plating would wear off" kinda got me.

Just that the many years of doing all sorts of internal combustion motors, I've never had any problems with spark plugs. And that's with using AC's, Champions, Autocrafts, et.al. . I didn't see NGK's until I began playing with motorcycles.

My apologies .. - DSM

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Step 1
Remove the spark plug wires. Use a spark plug wrench to remove the spark plugs from their chambers.

Step 2
Clean the spark plug if you are not replacing it with a new one. Remove all dirt and debris from the spark plug. If your doing all this you might as well replace them.

Step 3
Check the owner's manual for your car to find out the recommended gap setting, or call your parts store and ask what is the recommended gap setting for your year car.

Step 4
Use a gap tool to check the gap of the spark plug. Slip the tool between the ground electrode and center electrode. The gap tool should fit snugly at the recommended gap width indicated on the tool.

Step 5
Push the tool between the electrodes a few times to ensure proper gap. If the gap is too wide, push the ground electrode firmly against a flat surface to narrow the gap and then check again with the gap tool.

Step 6
Repeat Step 5 as necessary until you reach the correct gap. apply antil-seize lubricant around threads of the plugs reseat the spark plug and reattach the spark plug wires.

So I'm a newb and "don't know sh!t", I follow your directions and remove the wires and plugs from their respective locations...how does it all go back together? How do I know which wire goes where?

There should be a statement (step 1) " work on/remove 1 wire and 1 plug at a time" or something to that effect.


Remember that if you're going to give a "how-to", it needs to be written as if nobody knows the slightest anything about what you're trying to tell them.

 

[Defiant]

Well, there's "How To", and there's "Remove Avocado Pit Before Swallowing, Chimp".

We do too much Save The Stupid. Thanks to Child Guard medicine bottles, the morons who should have poisoned themselves out of the way with St. Joseph's Aspirin when they were three have grown up to be captains of industry. Industries like GM and Chrysler.

Bring back pharmaceutical Darwinism before it's too late.

Being told to do one plug/wire at at a time (if you can't read the numbers printed on the coils and wires) is like telling them to remove the transmission FILL plug before removing the drain (or, like having more than one thread about how to gap spark plugs). Sometimes it's more fun to just sit back and watch.

 

[Scuba_Steve]

Just remember, that stupid person will come back and ask for help here without searching 95% of the time after he realizes what he did!

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Sorry. I guess I work with too many of those people that should have accidentally killed themselves by now.

 

[Defiant]

We all do. By now, they're ubiquitous.

 

[nlzn]

Really when threading plugs into hot aluminum you aren't even supposed to hand tigthen them.

Go get at least 6"s of 3/8" hose and slip one end over the spark tip and use that to tighten it. Guaranteed not to cross thread even on the hottest of blocks

Edit: been applyin a dab of permatex anti seize to every spark plug I've changed in two years. No adverse problems detected.