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2G How To: 2G AWD M/T to A/T Swap

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So recently I converted my 2g Talon to Automatic and I couldn't seem to find any good info on the internet or really anywhere else on how to do or what parts I needed so I have decided to create this lil FAQ to give out all the information I have learned through my experience.

Now first of all you may be asking yourself why the hell anyone with a fast car would want to swap to automatic? Well its simple, for drag racing it cant be beat, not only can a auto trans shift faster than you ever will be able to but it also is more consistent and since during the launch the entire driveline is preloaded you are far less likely to break parts like axles, driveshafts t-cases etc etc.

First of all I will list all of the parts that are needed and their part numbers:

-Rear Engine Mount Bracket - MD753003
-Both Passenger Side mounts - MD753957 Trans Bracket, MD911274 Body Side Mount
-Engine Plate - MD194962
-Starter - MD172861 for 95-96, MD178511 for 97-99
-Speedometer Sensor Gear - MD757055 for 95-96, MD760150 for 97-99
-Shifter w/Cable and Brackets - MB910542 Cable
-Transfer Case - MD758203 for 95-96, MD748595 for 97-99
-Rear Differential

Now I will break down all parts of the swap and what needs to be done.

Motor Mounts - Some of the motor mounts on the trans are completely different and are impossible to swap over from your manual trans. Luckily both pieces to the front mount are the same and the mount on the drivers side for the engine can obviously be left alone. But both passenger side mounts are different. And on the rear of the trans the bracket that mounts on the trans is different but the mount that stays on the body of the car can stay.

Transfer Case and Differential - Both the transfer case and differential will need to be changed, the transfer case that is used will be dependent on what year car the transmission is from, t-cases for 95-96 cars are different from the 97-99 ones. You can find out what year the trans is by checking the VIN number stamped on it. And as for the rear differential the gear ratio between m/t cars and 5 speed cars are also different, but any rear differential from a 95-99 auto car will work, look for one with a 3.307 Gear ratio.

Shifter - Obviously you will need to install a shifter, which will bolt right in and then you will also need the single cable to connect it to the trans, you will also need to make sure you have the bracketry to connect the cable to the trans.

Shift control - Now this is where the swap may get a little difficult, there are two different ways to go about controlling the trans. You can either A) Buy a Transmission control computer, wiring harness and all sensors and let the computer control it. Or B.) Buy a IPT Shift controller, make some plates to cover the holes for the speed sensors on the trans and call it a day. I myself went with the Shift controller, it was the easiest method and now I can control my trans as if it were a stick by the push of a button. If you decide to try to piece together the computer system for the trans then all I can say is good luck, it wont be easy. There is one other method to control the trans and that would be with a AEM EMS or other Stand alone system but I wont even go into that.

Mounting a 2G Trans to a 6 Bolt Block - If you are using your stock 7 Bolt motor then you don't need to even worry about this section, but if you are running a 6 Bolt block then you will also need to order a Kiggly Adaptor Kit which includes all parts to connect the trans to your motor including the shim to push the trans away from the motor a little bit, if this isn't done then the torque converter gets pushed too far into the trans and blows the seal.

Links to help out:
IPT Transmissions - http://www.importperformancetrans.com/mitsubishiauto.shtml
VFAQ Gear Ratio Chart - http://www.vfaq.com/mods/Trannies.html

If you have any other questions, more info or corrections please post up or email me at [email protected]

Scott
 
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Just wanted to post up a little piece of info. . .

I am currently having problems replacing the rear roll-stop mount on my 5-speed 97 GST.

I ordered part # MB911266 and the mount I got *LOOKS* very similar to the one that came out of my car, but there is indeed a slight difference. The one that I was given is shifted to the drivers side of the car by about 1/4"-1/2" and has a light blue paint dot on it whereas the one that came out of my car has a red paint dot.

Now one would think that 1/4"-1/2" isn't much, but considering all of the bushings are Prothane replacements and fit considerably much more snug than stock, this makes it quite difficult to actually get all 4 mounts in place.

The part # for the AT is MB844289.

I will be headed to the dealership tomorrow to get this straightened out and confirmed.


Rear Roll-Stop
MT: MB911266 + Red Paint Dot
AT: MB844289 + Blue Paint Dot

Front Roll-stop
MT: MB844274 + Red Paint Dot
AT: MB844275 + ?Blue? Paint Dot


I think you may be fine so long as you do not mix colors (MT front roll-stop, AT rear roll-stop), but I would not chance it. Just get the proper ones . . . they are different part #'s for a reason.


*****UPDATE*****

Okay . . . the paint dot does not mean a thing. Best I can figure is it is to signify that the part has gone through quality control.

As for the difference between the AT and MT rear mount- I have no clue. I ordered an AT rear mount to compare with one I already had that I *thought* was for an AT, but they did not match. I would still highly suggest just spending the little extra cash and get the proper mounts ;)
 
Just wanted to say thanks for this thread! It will help a lot when I do the swap.

Do you need new front axles as well? I read that you need new front axles in a different thread. I just want to make sure when I put in the new trans that I don't need anything else and it can be a quick swap in.
 
On the drivers side axle, the portion that bolts to the block has to be changed. The automatic one is located differently. The passenger side will work on both the 5 spd. and auto.
 
On the drivers side axle, the portion that bolts to the block has to be changed. The automatic one is located differently. The passenger side will work on both the 5 spd. and auto.

That's the only part that needs to be changed? I can still use the out part of the axle?

What about the rear axles? I can use those with pretty much any rear diff?

Sorry for so many questions but I'm finding it hard to find a knowledgeable person that is willing to help.

Thanks in advance!
 
I think the manual swap is a no brainer. I am going to be doing this to my car this winter too, but i have a complete running and driving parts car so i should have everything. NOW for the question i have been wanting to ask someone... Have you driven the car yet? AND im curious to hear how the car feels? harder to launch? Any times to compare?
 
I'm surprised this isn't a sticky. Anyway, like asked above, will the rear axles from a MT rear diff work on a AT rear diff?
 
Yah they will fit. The only thing you have to watch out for is LSD vs Non-LSD rear axles. They are different. The LSD axles have a little extra nub on one of the axles.


I'm surprised this isn't a sticky. Anyway, like asked above, will the rear axles from a MT rear diff work on a AT rear diff?
 
So...

Rear LSD axles will fit both LSD Auto and Manual rear diffs

and Non LSD axles will fit Non-LSD Auto and Manual rear diffs

Correct?

I'm about to give up on finding a parts car so I think I'm going to have to start buying random parts and put the car together.
 
I want to do this swap but run a simple up/down 2 button shift system, will I have to find a TCU? If so, what all can I pull the TCU and sensors from? Are there any other vehicles that also have the 2g AWD auto transmission/driveline? A full list of everything to get the TCU in and working would be sweet.
 
If you run a shift box solely you dont need a tcu. You will connect the shift box to the two solenoids in the trans and thats it. You will have to find a tcu, engine harness from auto car, and a ton of other sensors etc. to do a full swap (it would be a pain in the ass).



I want to do this swap but run a simple up/down 2 button shift system, will I have to find a TCU? If so, what all can I pull the TCU and sensors from? Are there any other vehicles that also have the 2g AWD auto transmission/driveline? A full list of everything to get the TCU in and working would be sweet.
 
Ah sorry, I ended up finding a super clean 2gb auto that I bought, and it was cheaper than buying all the parts individually anyway. I'm going to run the RoadSurge box and TCU (TCU for daily driving because 100% line pressure shifts would get old fast).
 
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Does anyone have any instructions on the electrical side of this swap as to what connections are needed and what are not? Great info
 
You'll need a harness out of an auto. Just the engine harness.
 
Should have specified I well be using the trans in an AEM equipped car with out the TCU
 
ok so now i am confused i asked in a post if i could just use a shift box instead of switching my harness on a 2g manual to auto swap and i find this thread and u say its way to hard to switch the harness and the shift box works fine. so my question is what are the pros and cons of each choice then. i understand every part i need to swap drive train wise but harness wise im stumped now. like i said i was told i just need the hole engine harness to ecu/tcu. am i wrong or is there more i need. i have already gotten a tcu and shifter set up and cables.

scottr126 you are about 10 min from my house i know i have meet u a few time over the years do u got any info on this that could help me out. turboanything is a buddy of mine and told me were to get a good deal on a auto tranny/tcase/torque converter so i got that covered. since my 95 has a lsd rear diff im going to try to find a auto lsd rear so i don't have to change axles.
 
I am not sure of everything involved in switching to a full automatic harness. Obviously you will need to the full engine harness and a TCU but I am not sure if it is tied into anything else to get wheel speed or??? Also you will need all of the sensors for the transmission ie; the speed sensors and PRNDL switch.

In the end if you do the swap and get a TCU working it will be better. Wiring in a shift box is easy but you end up with full line pressure all the time and always have to shift manually.



ok so now i am confused i asked in a post if i could just use a shift box instead of switching my harness on a 2g manual to auto swap and i find this thread and u say its way to hard to switch the harness and the shift box works fine. so my question is what are the pros and cons of each choice then. i understand every part i need to swap drive train wise but harness wise im stumped now. like i said i was told i just need the hole engine harness to ecu/tcu. am i wrong or is there more i need. i have already gotten a tcu and shifter set up and cables.

scottr126 you are about 10 min from my house i know i have meet u a few time over the years do u got any info on this that could help me out. turboanything is a buddy of mine and told me were to get a good deal on a auto tranny/tcase/torque converter so i got that covered. since my 95 has a lsd rear diff im going to try to find a auto lsd rear so i don't have to change axles.
 
On the drivers side axle, the portion that bolts to the block has to be changed. The automatic one is located differently. The passenger side will work on both the 5 spd. and auto.
Are we 100% sure its just the drivers side going from manual to auto that has to change or is the the passenger side axles that are different?
 
The Intermediate shaft is longer on the auto. It needs to be changed.
 
The Intermediate shaft is longer on the auto. It needs to be changed.
Thats part of the drive shaft, I know about that, I am talking about the axles.

Is the drivers side axle on a manual different on a automatic? And could the same be said for the passenger side?

Well im hoping this answered my question:

On the drivers side axle, the portion that bolts to the block has to be changed. The automatic one is located differently. The passenger side will work on both the 5 spd. and auto.

I think I got it. Just wanted to confirm.
 
Old post but feel it's best to keep some good information in one post versus many. I'll talk to Chris about getting this as a sticky if possible.

But onto my question that I have in regards to this, I'm curious about the front axles for a 6 bolt in a 2g. The transmission is getting pushed over to the passenger side about 3/4" or so. Are y'all shortening the axle on the passenger side or leaving it alone and it has enough room to spare or what? Are you swapping out this axle for another? I understand it's best to use an auto because it's easier to get it out if need be but I'm worried more about the length of the shaft. I know there's methods of getting the manual shaft out if that's needed so that's not my concern (using hose clamps to tighten around the shaft and then using a pry bar against the clamp to pop it out, and many other methods). I don't wanna have it binding up in there and becoming an issue. I hear of some people getting it shortened but is everyone doing this???

As for the driver's side. I know Jeff Bush sells the bracket for the intermediate shaft to get it in the right alignment and all but he's also telling me that he's going to make a run of the shafts that go along with the bracket, but he has no idea of a timeframe and right now at the moment I want my car done. Not wait months and months. So that being said, what are y'all doing about the intermediate shaft? Using the manual shaft? Getting one from an auto? If it's one from an auto that's needed, I'm wondering if the dealer would still carry it being that these parts are getting harder to find now.

Just thought I'd throw this in here because it seems to be an important one that's being overlooked. Thanks!
 
Not 100% on this as I’ve just set up my shiftbox and yet to run in the car.
There was a topic on here in regards to line pressures and shift points.
A way to run a shiftbox without full line pressure all the time through a manual/auto modes.
If you are to run the shiftbox in full manual mode it would be line pressure as you set gear change with shifter or toggles.
If you were to switch to run it in automatic mode you can set up line pressure and shift points to similar to standard.
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Okay sorry to bring up an old thread AGAIN... but im really wanting to swap an auto into my newly acquired 2gen.

From what im gathering I need:
Auto trans w/ both motor mounts
Intermediate shaft
Transfercase
Rear Diff (need cv shafts if swaping lsd to non lsd)

My only question is the TCM side of things. I do not want to run just the forced for box, I want to be able to turn on and off full line pressure shifting.

What is needed to get a factory TCM installed in a manual? Also what wiring do I need to do for solenoid plugs on trans? Do I need an entire auto engine wiring harness?
 
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