My1GLaser
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,565
- 31
- Dec 4, 2006
-
Bartow,
Florida
I did quite a bit of searching on this and couldn't find anyone who said how much their fork moves when the clutch pedal is pushed. Mine moves almost 1/2" and I don't think that is far enough, but I don't have anything to compare it to.
The problem is that the car won't go into gear while running and if I try to force it into 1st then the car starts to creep forward so I know the clutch isn't fully disengaging. I have temporarily fixed it by over-adjusting the rod under the dash, and I know the slave cyl won't self-adjust anymore. I can drive it right now, but I know its not correctly fixed. It isn't my DD but I wanted to drive her b/c its been down for 5 weeks since I smoked my street disc at the track.
I replaced my clutch disc with an SBC kevlar disc. FW is stepped to .608" ACT 2600 with only 400 miles on it. One shim under the pivot ball, which is only a couple thousand miles old. Taboo SS clutch fork is in the center of the "window." SS clutch line. Bled the clutch several times. The pedal assembly has been removed and all the bushings were replaced with bronze, and there is NO freeplay.
I am going to get another master & slave, but in the meantime this is driving me crazy and I'd like to see what is normal clutch fork movement. Plus, I have read enough threads where new MC & SC didn't fix the problem and people had to pull the tranny again for one reason or another.
Is there another slave that I can buy that gives more throw? I have read about the Isuzu slave cylinder, but I think it is only used by people with twin-disc... How can I change the ratio of pedal movement to fork movement? Yes I know the extended slave rod doesn't fix this.
Oh yeah, since OEM MC & SC are so FU(CKING expensive are there other replacements that people are having good luck with? Wagner, Beck/Arnley, Perfection Clutch...
The problem is that the car won't go into gear while running and if I try to force it into 1st then the car starts to creep forward so I know the clutch isn't fully disengaging. I have temporarily fixed it by over-adjusting the rod under the dash, and I know the slave cyl won't self-adjust anymore. I can drive it right now, but I know its not correctly fixed. It isn't my DD but I wanted to drive her b/c its been down for 5 weeks since I smoked my street disc at the track.
I replaced my clutch disc with an SBC kevlar disc. FW is stepped to .608" ACT 2600 with only 400 miles on it. One shim under the pivot ball, which is only a couple thousand miles old. Taboo SS clutch fork is in the center of the "window." SS clutch line. Bled the clutch several times. The pedal assembly has been removed and all the bushings were replaced with bronze, and there is NO freeplay.
I am going to get another master & slave, but in the meantime this is driving me crazy and I'd like to see what is normal clutch fork movement. Plus, I have read enough threads where new MC & SC didn't fix the problem and people had to pull the tranny again for one reason or another.
Is there another slave that I can buy that gives more throw? I have read about the Isuzu slave cylinder, but I think it is only used by people with twin-disc... How can I change the ratio of pedal movement to fork movement? Yes I know the extended slave rod doesn't fix this.
Oh yeah, since OEM MC & SC are so FU(CKING expensive are there other replacements that people are having good luck with? Wagner, Beck/Arnley, Perfection Clutch...