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How does my TB deflection look?

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That is pretty loose. Were you able to re-install the pin back in the tensioner after you removed it? Was the tensioner new?
 
Okay, that was cold btw, and I just took it for a drive and now it's tight. Is that correct? I did have a but of trouble with the grenade pin as I recall but couldn't say for sure why. tensioner, auto tensioner, idler pulley all new
 
Your deflection looks great in the second video. You also want to check the deflection on both sides of the cam gears of you can.

But it's perfectly normal for the belt to loosen up a little after sitting for a while.
 
Its normal for that spot to loosen up after a while due to the way how the cam gears end up. Mine has the same slop after a few hours too

Why do you have 95/96 cam gears? Has there been any swaps done?
 
I friggin broke one of my originals trying to get it off. I've broken a few things being stupid AAMOF <--- making up my own acronyms
 
Deflection means nothing. The tensioner as measured from the protrusion of the hydrauloic tensioner was either right or it wasn't. There is nothing more to check. You don't need to check between the cam gears, worry about whether it's hot or cold. You only need to measure the protrustion AFTER the motor has been rotated six times. Why? You remove slack from the idle side during install by rotating the motor (it didn't actually take six times to remove slack). You also put all the marks back in line with 6 revolutions so you get to check that also. If at that point the tensioner is correct then put it back together and you don't have to worry about it until the next service interval.
 
Choose your own service interval. I change mine at 40k. Unless I spot a leak I don't look at it. I've logged 300k mi on DSMs. I don't look at it. You may if you wish.
 
Deflection means nothing. The tensioner as measured from the protrusion of the hydrauloic tensioner was either right or it wasn't. There is nothing more to check. You don't need to check between the cam gears, worry about whether it's hot or cold. You only need to measure the protrustion AFTER the motor has been rotated six times. Why? You remove slack from the idle side during install by rotating the motor (it didn't actually take six times to remove slack). You also put all the marks back in line with 6 revolutions so you get to check that also. If at that point the tensioner is correct then put it back together and you don't have to worry about it until the next service interval.

Sure, unless something goes wrong. And lacking experience I asked.
 
Last time I checked, maybe 1k miles ago when I replaced the belt
 
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