How does it look under here?

[juntjoo]

Help me out with my suspension/drivetrain check up. Tie rods and axles are obvious..



right? But how about ball joints and bushings on the control arms?


ball joints look good. Couldn't pry up on em like my manual explains to test for, and the bushings have just micro cracks as it appears to me.

And how about these struts? Are they supposed a little lubed to the touch up there or totally dry as they are? No signs of leaking.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

my main symptoms are crackling when I turn, i'm thinking new axles, not just boots, and wheels steer a little on their own, more and more as time goes by. wutchas think?

 

[DSMTyson]

You need to redo your attatchments(pictures) they aren't working.

 

[juntjoo]

Stupid tapatalk app. Load a bunch O' picks then your phone rings when u return tapatalk goes 'oops, couldn't hold it moment for you'. Crap app.

 

[Jr Grey]

I would go though the suspension only because the car is old and if you looking to pull any power out of it you want the suspension and brakes to be in very good working order

good luck bro

p.s. that's the way I went and as of now I only have suspension and brake mods

 

[juntjoo]

Thanks grey. I'll have to get the pics up later. "systems are down" it seems however I try.

Anyway, I probably need struts and ... well, a lot. I just want to get the pics up to show you guys the control arm bushings and ball joints and a leaking power steering boot. I'll update with pics later...

I've got to start shopping around and get familiar with my options. I saw I think at rock auto $700 400hp rated axles that looked like they were made of gold. I'm only looking for 200 max hp down the road but I wonder would these last 7(7 x say $100) times longer than say some cardones or duralasts. Or is that a silly supposition about more expensive parts in general?

what's a worth while upgrade for a non racer that still wants better performance? I'm thinking suspension and axles/differential (considering that $200 lsd rig, not sure exactly how it works but it goes right in the center of the differential and it improves performance) more so than breaks/rotors and steering components. So of anyone has any opinions feel free to share. Thanks

 

[PrimerPLus]

Stock axles will be just fine. If I had to replace mine I'd go to the local parts store and get some. I would not spend $700 on axles.

 

[Thungar]

Get the lifetime garentee axles from Orielly bust em up and replace when you ruin one.

 

[WES_393]

Forget those fancy high-performance axles. I suggest GSP axles from Advanced Auto. I replaced both my fronts with GSP brand axles and they have held up to whatever my 16g could throw at them. Including 1.5 second 60 foot times.

Oreilly sells some quality OEM stuff, but their Master Pro line is junk IMO. Just yesterday I had to replace my Master Pro wheel bearings. They lasted less than 2k miles on stock rims/tires. I had a Master Pro axle get stuck half way in the trans because it was splined wrong. I had to pull the engine/trans just to get the rest out. Even as a former employee of Oreilly, I saw nothing but problems with Master Pro parts. I know many have had good luck with them, but I say it's best to avoid the risk all together.

 

[juntjoo]

Thanks for the suggestions. I like the idea of getting parts with lifetime warrantees. I like that. Cheap with lifetime warranty. I'll go by that motto until I discover which parts I need stronger or I just get tired of replacing them.

 

[juntjoo]

Edit: moved this post forward

 

[juntjoo]

So now Tapatalk is uploading pics for me

 

[juntjoo]

What do you think? Can't I just pop some new boots over those tie rod ball joints? And that leak coming from the boot, shouldnt that just be a loose clamp?

CV joints done. Replacing axles.

how do those control arm ball joints look? I squished some grease out trying to separate it from the hub. Can't I just inject some more? They're really dirty, but seemed to pass the pry bar test with some support from a jack (didn't pry upwards at least with the force of my arms)

And those struts. They compress and decompress with good resistance tho I don't know what to look for. What about those seats at the top of the struts? Can they be upgraded for a softer ride?

Thanks

Edit: pics above post

 

[fhudsonjr]

Those ball joints need to be replaced. Don't trust 'em just because they pass the pry test.

 

[tektic]

You could replace the boot for like $10pr replace both tie rod ends for $30. Up to you. Wheel bearings ans ball joints too. I just got good quality ball joints for $10 each on rock. Wheel bearings were 40 a side with seals. 2 Dual piston front calipers for 120. Just do it all. It will be good for another 60 k miles easy.

 

[juntjoo]

Those ball joints need to be replaced. Don't trust 'em just because they pass the pry test.

Thanks, how can ya tell tho because they're just dirty. is it just a time thing- after so many miles they just get weak or something? Would they cause alignment issues like how my wheels feel like they turn an inch on they're own? Could that be from loose ball joints? Tie rod ones and/or control arm? Thanks again. Trying to understand these parts best as possible

 

[juntjoo]

You could replace the boot for like $10pr replace both tie rod ends for $30. Up to you. Wheel bearings ans ball joints too. I just got good quality ball joints for $10 each on rock. Wheel bearings were 40 a side with seals. 2 Dual piston front calipers for 120.

control arm ball joints without the control arm? I thought you had to get the whole arm. You talking about rock auto? Thanks...

 

[juntjoo]

Has anyone replaced just the ball joints in the control arms and could briefly explain how it's done and what tools I'd need? My Haynes manual says they're not serviceable but I think I've read otherwise and they have for sale just the ball joints and tools for removing and replacing them, and much cheaper than the entire control arm. Thanks

 

[leepen]

Has anyone replaced just the ball joints in the control arms and could briefly explain how it's done and what tools I'd need? My Haynes manual says they're not serviceable but I think I've read otherwise and they have for sale just the ball joints and tools for removing and replacing them, and much cheaper than the entire control arm. Thanks

Yes I did..and it suked ended up buying the LCAs. But what i did was freeze the BJ for 2 days, to shrink it. I used a jack a a 6lb hammer to knock the old BJs out, inserted the new frozen BJs in LCAs. now heres the weird thing, both BJs had the same PN and bought at the same time. the PS BJ set fit nice and tight. The DS wiggled in the LCA

 

[pauleyman]

Ball joints have long been available at any parts store. Remove the boot, remove the circlip and then have the joints pressed in and out. If you experience the problem of the last post where the joint is loose in the arm then you'll have to get a new control arm. You do not have to freeze them etc. You'll need a ball joint press or hydraulic press and if you don't know what you're doing with those tools take it to a shop and have them do it or you'll ruin the joint or the entire control arm. One of these works very well. Torin Hydraulic Shop Press – 20-Ton, Model# T52001B | Hydraulic Presses| Northern Tool + Equipment Yes I own one.

 

[juntjoo]

Yes I did..and it suked ended up buying the LCAs. But what i did was freeze the BJ for 2 days, to shrink it. I used a jack a a 6lb hammer to knock the old BJs out, inserted the new frozen BJs in LCAs. now heres the weird thing, both BJs had the same PN and bought at the same time. the PS BJ set fit nice and tight. The DS wiggled in the LCA

Not sure what the ds is but doesn't sound encouraging

 

[19Eclipse90]

DS = Driver Side

You can rent a ball joint press from Autozone.

 

[juntjoo]

Thanks. Yeah, I'm looking into them now. I might just buy one. Will any do? Theyre for pressing AND removing them? Are our bj's, ha, bj's, weird in any way? Found some videos on how to use em. Thanks guys. Good info.

Hey, how stiff are the bj studs(?) supposed to be? I figure loose is bad and mine are dang stiff.

Pauleyman, I plan on getting a press if and when I ever get a house with garage ...though they look kinda like the size of a big chair, that you can't sit on, or a small door. And if it's light enough... I suppose it could just rest against the wall in my living room... if I want to carry all that equipment...

 

[pauleyman]

If you ever get a press learn how to use it. 20 tons can hurt you if you don't understand what's going on. C clamp style ball joint press works but they are a little clunky.

 

[juntjoo]

Yeah, I've noticed via a few videos. I'll take the rental option to be safe.

 

[1992 Eagle Talon TSi]

When I change the ball joint on my talon I used the ball joint press, 4wd drive adapter and an impact to remove them and install them. I work at oreilly's so I just removed my control arm And did it there. Also I would highly recommend using MOOG ball joints, I compared them to the house brand and they were a lot beefier.

You may be wondering why I used the 4wd adapter for the press, it's because that was the only thing I could get over the ball joint and in between the lip of the control arm, the supplied adapters hit the outer lip and I was afraid I would bend the control arm and a new arm was about four days out.