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Wheels and tires ordered


Since no machine shop would cut the gears I had to have them ground down by a local cam shaft company hopefully there won’t be any issues with it digging into the housings the reason I left some of the teeth was so the shafts could still get oiled and it wouldn’t cause any damage to the front case the only other option was the magnus front case and since this is an old one and was free I don’t feel so bad doing this to it

Update quite a few lines ran the nt03+m will not clear the ctsv brake calipers however I had a feeling that would be the case I’m running a 1” spacer even though I hate the idea it clears the calipers by about a quarter inch I had taken several measurements prior to the install I’ll get some photos once the tires are mounted and I can drop the car back on all 4 wheels I’m planning on running some 235/40/18 Yokohama r8888 for the streets I’ll show some photos of clearances when I get a chance for now all I have is more engine bay photos
For anyone that cares to know I had to do two separate size spacers due to the CTS-v brembo upgrades they are 25mm thick (1”) the hub centric spacers are 5x114.3 70.1 -72.6 for front, and 5x114.3 cb67.1-72.6 for rear, 12x1.5 studs size I recommend contacting the company as they aren’t really listed but they are the only company that offer 7075 aluminum spacers along with ISO grade 12.9 studs and nuts im not worried about excessive wear on the bearing however Saftey is of the upmost importance
Well slowly things are falling in line with the heat reaching 115 inside the shop I haven’t been out there much in the last two months and helping another friend get his daily running had put a stop to any real work on the car plus iv been kinda putting off working on the last bit of the brake lines to the rear just because I have to get under the car however I had to shim the clutch and run all of the boost reference hoses plumb the electronic boost controller and I even put in a dump pipe on the turbo just to get it going for now it’s been a ton of small things all adding together and sadly I won’t be able to run my COP till I get a spark box it’s one of the last pieces to this puzzle for me



Was a little buisy trying to get the car ready for yep fest all of the brake lines have been ran however somehow my prop valve decided it wanted to seize up and the front brakes don’t get fluid other than that she’s finally back on the ground on all 4s still has yet to start I have to chase down some wiring gremlins and also helped a buddy fit a gt3582R into his galant vr4 I’ll have to get some photos of the brake lines and how they are ran



So iv been trying to chase down a no spark issue someone recommended replacing my CAS after the ptu tested good so here’s the check $89 Amazon special with Mitsubishi guys in it I have spark on cylinders 1/4 nothing on 2/3 last piece of the puzzle


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still no spark on coils 2/3. iv been chasing through the list of possible items it could be tested ptu, cas, had ecm link check the ecu and I replaced all of the coils with NGK brand coils doesn’t seem to be any of those. I believed it may have been the cop wiring or the dyna arc2 both turned out fine I’m going to chase through my wires and make sure
Nothing came loose as well as replace the oem pigtail on my CAS
Sorry it took so long for an update this was one of the things iv been dreading to do I was able to test all of the wires to verify continuity my make shift diagram help me diagnose the issue. The two bright red connectors pin 2,7 on the ptu lead back to the ecu at pin 54 and 55. so checking signal from pin 54 (coils 1/4) to pin 7 on the ptu pigtail and pin 55 (coil 2/3) to pin 2 on the pig tail showed that I have a good connection from ecu to the pig tail and from the ptu pig tail to the coil plug. After cranking the car over several times and measuring the output of pin 54/55 pin 54 had 1.5v out while pin 55 had something like 12.1 micro volts I had inspected the ecu prior to installing however I didn’t catch the excess solder from whoever had done the repairs to this ecu I’m going to be swapping with a known hood ecu this weekend to verify my findings


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I believe iv fixed the issues I have spark on all 4 cylinders it seems to have been a combination of a bad ecu a bad connector and what we are suspect was a bad wiring diagram for a COP. However I won’t know till I get it turned by Kenny Kline

I swear ima burn this car down 😂 well fixed the no spark on cylinders 2/3 completely required the COP and borrowed a friends ecu new plugs on the CAS, ptu, and the COP I have it started and running and get it tuned on the 28/29 I noticed some fluid coming out of the manifold not sure if it’s unburied gas or oil so I picked up a new stainless exhaust manifold gasket along with a helicoil kit for one of the studs that’s stripped out I’m hoping that the leak is coming from bottom middle stud, that goes threw the oil passage, on a 6-bolt motor I didn’t rtv it on install so fixing that as well


After putting the dsm on hold for the last 8 months I was finally able to get back to working on her last night I did a boost leak test felt the air chuck wasn’t supplying enough air for me to locate any of my leaks so I threaded a quick adapter that are found on most air tools and hooked it up to my 100 gallon tank set at 35 psi needless to say I found them quickly injector orings , the bottom of the S90 throttle body and a 3inch coupling that I’ll be replacing with one of these eBay clamps that I tested to 80psi without any issues. So I’m back on track the one thing that caught me off guard was my wideband isn’t starting up when I give it power hopefully nothing friend when I jumped the battery I still have yet to figure out why my ark 2 isn’t working I think it may have been dead on arrival because the car works fine if I bypass it

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