Help with oil filter housing ports.

[88BB8B]

I took this motor apart like 2 years ago and I lost my old housing with all the sensors attached still. I forgot what's what on this thing but I did some research and I think I know which holes the sensors go in, I'm assuming it won't hurt anything to block these off for the time being (until I get new ones)I might still be missing some bolts? But This is what my new housing looks like now.

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I'm pretty sure the two big threaded holes are external oil cooler ports. Will it be okay to run this with these blocked off? Would it be better to run a hose between them?

Can I run an oil pressure gage off of one of the two plugs on the front there?

Which port would feed most directly to the crank without flowing against the oil pump. I built an exteral oil pump to pump oil in for the first start after rebuilt here.

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I know you have a 2g but here is a good picture of the ports (borrowed from this thread), although this is a 1990 housing so I doubt your cooler holes are threaded. It should be helpful though.

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[88BB8B]

That looks like my housing. My oil cooler ports definitely are threaded. If I pump oil into the oil cooler return port, will it make its way to the bearings under good pressure?

 

[calgst95]

I believe you can’t just plug the oil cooler ports. Correct me if I’m wrong.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

That looks like my housing. My oil cooler ports definitely are threaded. If I pump oil into the oil cooler return port, will it make its way to the bearings under good pressure?

I believe it would, but it would have to have a filter on it and the open holes plugged, except for the cooler return. Usually it is best to assemble with Assembly Lube so you don't have to go thru this.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

When blocking the oil cooler ports, it is also recommended to remove the oil cooler bypass valve (location pictured in post #2). There is a plug that deletes this available. Alternatively, you can remove the spring and c-clip, then reassemble. Below, you can see the oil plugs and oil cooler bypass valve delete:

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[DSMPT]

Early EVO OFH. Please DO NOT just block off those ports. You may possibly damage your new engine. What Nate @2gmitsueclipse said above is correct and ideal. Or you loop those 2 ports if you don't remove the oil cooler bypass valve.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/oil-cooler-deletion-help.445668/#post-153755852

 

[danl]

Any clue on where to buy the bypass plug?

I'm a bit confused though, the bypass valve is so that oil does not get to the oil cooler when the oil is cold. Oil is still allowed to get to the bearings. Thus, if the bypass valve not allowing oil to go to the cooler when the oil is cold does not damage the engine, why would the engine be damaged when it warms and oil can not get to the cooler because the oil cooler ports are plugged?

STM (and others) only sell the block off bolts, no mention of a bolt to omit the thermo valve?

STM Engine Oil Cooler Delete Kit for DSM

The STM DSM engine oil cooler delete kit is as easy as it gets. If you plan on removing your engine oil cooler, all the lines and all the weight for drag racing, this simple kit is all you'll need!

stmtuned.com

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Any clue on where to buy the bypass plug?I'm a bit confused though, the bypass valve is so that oil does not get to the oil cooler when the oil is cold. Oil is still allowed to get to the bearings. Thus, if the bypass valve not allowing oil to go to the cooler when the oil is cold does not damage the engine, why would the engine be damaged when it warms and oil can not get to the cooler because the oil cooler ports are plugged?STM (and others) only sell the block off bolts, no mention of a bolt to omit the thermo valve?

STM Engine Oil Cooler Delete Kit for DSM

The STM DSM engine oil cooler delete kit is as easy as it gets. If you plan on removing your engine oil cooler, all the lines and all the weight for drag racing, this simple kit is all you'll need!

stmtuned.com

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/oil-cooler-deletion-help.445668/

Post #22 posted by DSMPT

Yeah this is old
No. Don't just block off only the two ports for the oil cooler. Once the oil gets hot, you would loose a lot of oil flow to the main oil gallery and would possibly damage bearings. Just loop the two oil cooler ports is the easiest and the safest. Or if you would like to block off the two ports, then remove the oil cooler bypass valve and block off its port, too. I think the port is M24 x 1.5. (or if you have an extra bypass valve just cut/remove the bypass valve rod/the thermostat part and use only the threads part or disassemble the bypass valve like the pic and use it "only temporary" to block off the port, since the rod and the thermostat part that come when it gets hot would still restrict the oil flow, so I don't recommend much but it would have much more oil flow than just block off the two ports)

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To your point, the oil flow directly to the engine is restricted once oil reaches operating temperature by the bypass valve so that it goes through the cooler. You have a problem here when this path is blocked completely (the plug). As suggested, you can still just loop the lines, as opposed to using plugs.

 

[talon77]

I totally learned something from this thread! I recently put together a fresh engine in my house and I totally plugged and disregarded my oil cooler ports for the purposes of priming the engine (by spinning oil pump sprocket with a drill) while the engine was still on a stand inside my house. I didn’t think twice about oil flow concerns due to blocked cooler ports because I clearly saw oil flowing out of the HLAs at the head (I’m reading that the cold oil bypasses the oil cooler ports, and won’t get forced through the cooler ports until oil warmed up).
Anywho, my thought is that it is ok to block the cooler ports (without eliminating/modifying the bypass valve) JUST for oil priming since only the oil pump sprocket is spinning (not the actual engine). I will connect the oil cooler and cooler lines once the engine is in the car before the car is actually started.

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[danl]

Talon77, that is my understanding after looking at the oil flow diagram. Once warmed up oil is coaxed to the oil cooler and if you have the ports blocked, you could have reduced flow to the main gallery. Priming cold should be fine, especially if you can see oil coming out the lifters.

I don't have access to my car right now, would you be able to pull the oil cooler switch to confirm if the threads are 24x1.5mm? I'd just hate to buy one if it is the wrong size, meaning I won't be able to drive my car next time I'm able to work on it.

 

[talon77]

Talon77, that is my understanding after looking at the oil flow diagram. Once warmed up oil is coaxed to the oil cooler and if you have the ports blocked, you could have reduced flow to the main gallery. Priming cold should be fine, especially if you can see oil coming out the lifters.

I don't have access to my car right now, would you be able to pull the oil cooler switch to confirm if the threads are 24x1.5mm? I'd just hate to buy one if it is the wrong size, meaning I won't be able to drive my car next time I'm able to work on it.

Not much I can do for you today because I have too many honey-do’s for the lady, but I’ll see what I can do for you tomorrow sir

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I like this tool "extension"

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[DSMPT]

Correct. If you just block off the oil cooler ports, when the oil is cold you still have the cooler bypass port open. But once the oil gets hot, the bypass valve would extend the rod and block off the cooler bypass port. It wouldn't be completely blocked and the oil pressure can push open the valve spring. So you would still have a little oil flow but probably it's not enough to keep the engine healthy. The biggest issue here is your oil pressure sensor and idiot light switch is seeing oil pressure because you block off post the sensors, so nothing will warn you even you are missing oil in the block.

As for the thread pitch, please refer the pic below. The cooler port is M16 x 1.5, the bypass valve is M24 x 1.5.

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[talon77]

@DSMPT Very helpful post, in multiple regards, thank you!

 

[danl]

DSMPT, you are awesome, thanks.

If anybody is looking to disable the oil cooler thermo valve using a plug, these are easily sourced as drain plugs for some Audi/VW models and some BMW models, so places like NAPA should be able to get them in a day. Doorman makes part 65414 that should work: https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-54798-65414.aspx

Belmetric sells them as well (out of Massachusetts USA): https://www.belmetric.com/m24x15-pl...ss-stainless-a2-metric-drain-plug-p-7345.html

Belmetric sells on Amazon if that is your thing, just search for part #: DP24X1.5AHSS

If you are looking to enable the oil cooler at all times (stock unit starts sending oil to cooler at 85 deg celcius) then you can consider Tomei part # 193040, the "Oil Cooler Killer". https://machv.com/products/tomei-4g63-thermo-killer

MachV says it fits DSM's but Tomei does not advertise it as such. It would make sense that this is backwards compatible to DSM's, your mileage may vary.

 

[DSMPT]

MachV says it fits DSM's but Tomei does not advertise it as such. It would make sense that this is backwards compatible to DSM's, your mileage may vary.

Yes, Tomei oil cooler killer will fit DSM. I have one and it wIll fit all 4g63 that have this oil cooler bypass valve. (DSM, JDM GVR4, EVO 1-9 etc)
HKS sell a low temp model in case if over cool/heat is concerned.The stock valve would be fully closed at 100 degree C, the HKS one is 75 degree C, so starts sending oil at much lower temp. The part number is 15999-AM001.

One thing I forgot to mention that the cooler bypass valve has a kind of flare seal. So if you use a plug, you may need a crush washer or thread sealant or some sort of that.

 

[88BB8B]

I believe it would, but it would have to have a filter on it and the open holes plugged, except for the cooler return. Usually it is best to assemble with Assembly Lube so you don't have to go thru this.

I certainly assembled with lots of assembly lube. I am pumping the oil in as an extra precaution, that way I will have full pressure before I start cranking. this engine chewed up its last crank in 100km so I'm trying to give every chance I can.

DSMPT, you are awesome, you've helped me well with some other questions I've had as well, thank you! This thread now contains all of the information I had to piece together from other threads as well as answers I wasn't able to find.

 

[danl]

Using the BelMetric part above I can confirm that the threads are correct for the thermo-cooler valve. However they go about 2 threads too far and bottom out before the crush washer can make a seal. Therefore, you need to put a bevel on the first 2-3 threads, so that it will not contact the internal taper before the crush washer can contact the housing. Attached are pictures of the unmodified and modified part.

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[DSMPT]

Using the BelMetric part above I can confirm that the threads are correct for the thermo-cooler valve. However they go about 2 threads too far and bottom out before the crush washer can make a seal. Therefore, you need to put a bevel on the first 2-3 threads, so that it will not contact the internal taper before the crush washer can contact the housing. Attached are pictures of the unmodified and modified part.

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the cooler bypass valve has a kind of flare seal. So if you use a plug, you may need a crush washer or thread sealant or some sort of that.

Nice! And yes that's what I wanted to tell in post #17.

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