GVR-4 Help with cam timing marks

[Wrathvr4]

Hello, I'm currently reinstalling all the hardware into the cylinder head after having it resurfaced. While aligning the center cam gear marks, I noticed that the dowels aren't positioned at 12 o'clock. The timing marks on the Tomei cams were made by the previous owner, not by the factory. Is it possible that my car's timing was incorrect all along, or could I be overlooking something?

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[DSMPT]

There has definitely been contact with the valves and pistons

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That contacting mark doesn't look new. Carbon deposit already in it. Probably it's from the previous owner. If those marks are from you, then 100% you could have bent the valves.
I don't know what cams you have but the pistons have dish top, so usually you have sufficient piston to valve clearance, just one tooth off doesn't make them contacted.

 

[Wrathvr4]

That contacting mark doesn't look new. Carbon deposit already in it. Probably it's from the previous owner. If those marks are from you, then 100% you could have bent the valves.
I don't know what cams you have but the pistons have dish top, so usually you have sufficient piston to valve clearance, just one tooth off doesn't make them contacted.

Great observation. I believe the issue wasn't caused by me. Prior to me removing the head, it successfully passed both compression and leak-down tests with flying colours. The reason for pulling the head was pushing coolant under high boost conditions, Which leak down couldn’t detect at 100psi. Cams are Kelford 272/278

 

[DSMPT]

Great observation. I believe the issue wasn't caused by me. Prior to me removing the head, it successfully passed both compression and leak-down tests with flying colours. The reason for pulling the head was pushing coolant under high boost conditions, Which leak down couldn’t detect at 100psi. Cams are Kelford 272/278

I am sure that you didn't do that. I have sufficient clearance with Kelford 282/288 11.50mm lift w/ 1.3mm gasket + 1mm oversize valves.
Once all the adjustable gear center hub bolts got loose and slid maximumly at the moment I revved up the engine in neutral which is 1.5 tooth moved while the engine was running. But the valves didn't contact with the pistons at all. I was lucky it didn't happen at high RPM though.

 

[Wrathvr4]

I am sure that you didn't do that. I have sufficient clearance with Kelford 282/288 11.50mm lift w/ 1.3mm gasket + 1mm oversize valves.
Once all the adjustable gear center hub bolts got loose and slid maximumly at the moment I revved up the engine in neutral which is 1.5 tooth moved while the engine was running. But the valves didn't contact with the pistons at all. I was lucky it didn't happen at high RPM though.

Thanks man, that gives me confidence going in with my new setup. Want to try the Hks so will go the 1.6mm hg as my head thickness is running pretty low at 5.180

 

[dwb]

Are you sure that's not an old witness mark? Looks like carbon on it Is there a mark on the valve too?
IMO, that would have bent a valve.

edit: oops, page # 2, I see that this has already been discussed

 

[Wrathvr4]

Back with a couple Q’s. i found time to get the timing belt and everything back together but now I’m pulling back down because I’ve noticed my fluidampr crank pulley does not quite sit where it should against the casing tdc marks. Timing marks on the crank etc we’re all ligned up perfect. Could the new timing marks on cams cause this adjustment?

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[DSMPT]

This happens with the Fluidampr. If you want, find the true TDC and make your own slit/marking.
Please refer the link below.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/fluidamper-question.544180/

Could the new timing marks on cams cause this adjustment?

No. Because the valve timing is always set based on the crank/piston position. So you are supposed to set the crank/piston position before setting the cam/valve position, which means the timing marks on the cam gears have nothing to do with crank/piston position. But if vice versa yes. In case if you made a new timing mark on the crank plate, that would affect the timing mark position on the cam gears.

 

[Wrathvr4]

This happens with the Fluidampr. If you want, find the true TDC and make your own slit/marking.
Please refer the link below.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/fluidamper-question.544180/

No. Because the valve timing is always set based on the crank/piston position. So you are supposed to set the crank/piston position before setting the cam/valve position, which means the timing marks on the cam gears have nothing to do with crank/piston position. But if vice versa yes. In case if you made a new timing mark on the crank plate, that would affect the timing mark position on the cam gears.

Ahh man thanks again! It seems I got one from the bad batch. Pretty crappy I’ve had to re mark my cam gears and now my crank pulley as well

 

[DSMPT]

Ahh man thanks again! It seems I got one from the bad batch. Pretty crappy I’ve had to re mark my cam gears and now my crank pulley as well

It's not a big deal. That mark is not used to set the valve timing. You can leave it like that if you want, and just try to remember that when you check/set the base ignition timing by using a timing light, the timing light would indicate a few degree off from the scale on timing cover.

 

[Wrathvr4]

Bit of an update, the timing seems to be much much better. My car fires up right away instead of a lot of turning over and idle sounds much healthier. I’ve yet to take her for a spin yet as I’ve noticed a rattle/knock at start up only. Dissapears after a few seconds and when revved.

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[DSMPT]

the timing seems to be much much better.

Congrats! I guess you had never had the right valve timing before by following the markings from the previous owner. It seems you now have it.

 

[Wrathvr4]

Yes thanks again mate