The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support ExtremePSI

2G Help with als with auto trans

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jpmxrider489

10+ Year Contributor
2,410
146
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I'm looking for some guidance on als/launching. The trans has kiggly front clutch and IPT end clutch. Also have fourced four valve body and TCU. I also have IPT converter in the car. I also still have the factory TCU. Ill upload 3 small logs of ALS attempts. I also tried settings in the one image. I uploaded a image of how I have it wired. I also have a vacuum pump to help the brakes. The car has a hx35 and on e85. The car is wired to the brake switch for the TCU. One image is forced four and one is what I read to try but unsure how or if I can. When I enable clutch cut, the car wont go past that rpm at all while WOT.

Now my confusion is since I'm using the break switch already to the TCU, should I do more already? Ecm Wiki says autos don't use the clutch switch at all.
How do I tell my "stall" in my log? I only build about 3psi and ALS doesn't seem to be working. Timing is not held at 10
I don't even know if my setting are where they need to be? I tried what other people recommended. I'm not getting any pops or bangs LOL. The car acts the same as if I disable it.

There are several people somehow doing this without a CDI or Nitrous. Please don't tell me I need that. I'm trying to make this work as other people did.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Because you didn't meet all the parameters you set for the antilag activation. In the log, the TPS % didn't meet the number you set that's why the antilag didn't get activated (Assuming you wired everything properly). Should set the TPS % much lower to test, then see if it would be activated. Once it's activated, you can hear ignition is retarded and can see it in log.
 
Because you didn't meet all the parameters you set for the antilag activation. In the log, the TPS % didn't meet the number you set that's why the antilag didn't get activated (Assuming you wired everything properly). Should set the TPS % much lower to test, then see if it would be activated. Once it's activated, you can hear ignition is retarded and can see it in log.
What specifically needs wired to what in order for als to work? I have the tcu wired accordingly to the forced four image above. I dont believe I have the other image wired with a second relay. Is the clutch wire totally irrelevant for auto guys? I will lower tps and try again. I'll update tomorrow.
 
I don't have the lig in front of me at the moment. But I believe I had it set to activate above 70 percent throttle. Even if it's not at 70. ALS should work as long as my tps is higher than what that value is?

Then the rpm should be lower or higher to trigger it? I read the wiki as its the starting rpm. So anything higher than XYZ should trigger as long as my tps is good?
 
What I wanted to say is, you did set the antilag controls as below. The TPS % is set as 90% or higher, but in the log, you didn't exceed 90% while the vehicle speed was between 0km/h and 4km/h. That's why it didn't get activated. When you reached 90%, the vehicle speed already reached 8km/h. And I said to lower the TPS %, because it would be easier for a test to see if it would be activated as it should. The numbers should be up to you, once you confirm that it works.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I tested it again with two separate settings. Let me know what you think. Its not really that aggressive. I would like to build 10 just faster. In this I built 5. What should I adjust next?
 

Attachments

  • als test 3.elg
    24.5 KB · Views: 20
  • als test 2.elg
    51.3 KB · Views: 17
The antilag is not activated yet. Should change the number for "Use clutch cut with speed" to higher number, not "0". Then see if it would be activated.
My clutch cut thing isnt installed so that shouldn't matter? Any other recommended settings. Then I can try multiple and report back.
 
My clutch cut thing isnt installed so that shouldn't matter?
You don't need it to activate the antilag. Change the number of "Use clutch cut with speed", any number but 0, then the antilag should be activated (the numbers are just for a test. The actual number would depend how you like in your use). You can do an activation test even in P or N, doesn't need to be in D. Once you successfully activate it, you would easily feel and can see it in log. The ignition timing line would become more zigzag like the pic below.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
You don't need it to activate the antilag. Change the number of "Use clutch cut with speed", any number but 0, then the antilag should be activated (the numbers are just for a test. The actual number would depend how you like in your use). You can do an activation test even in P or N, doesn't need to be in D. Once you successfully activate it, you would easily feel and can see it in log. The ignition timing line would become more zigzag like the pic below.

I lowered the tps point. And put in a value higher than 0 for the clutch cut speed. I don't see a change.
 

Attachments

  • als clutch log clipped.elg
    12.8 KB · Views: 22
I lowered the tps point. And put in a value higher than 0 for the clutch cut speed. I don't see a change.
You now have "0" for "And speed", it was 4 in the first log. Change that number to any number but 0, and see if it would be activated.
 
That seemed to work. But didn't build much at all. I have to do it in gear to provide load to actually spool. Do I raise rpm to build more, adjust the fuel percentage to make afr line up, and adjust timing accordingly?

Also in my forced four tcu I can set a stall up rpm and tps. Is there a certain rpm that needs to be?
 

Attachments

  • als kinda worked.elg
    14.4 KB · Views: 19
You now have "0" for "And speed", it was 4 in the first log. Change that number to any number but 0, and see if it would be activated.

Maybe I didn't express myself well. You still have "0" for "Use clutch cut with speed" and "And speed". What I wanted to say is make those numbers "2" or higher and try again.
I have changed in the log above.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
My bad, I was seeing an old log. Yeah now you have it. So try some changes and see how would be working. But since your car is auto, I am not so sure how much gain you can actually have. My 2g is auto but I don't use the antilag, I use it only on my manual 1g. My honest opinion is nitrous would probably be the way to go. (I know you mentioned not to tell you that 😄)
@1990TSIAWDTALON Marty, I know you have a similar setup with a shift box. Do you have any suggestion?
 
My bad, I was seeing an old log. Yeah now you have it. So try some changes and see how would be working. But since your car is auto, I am not so sure how much gain you can actually have. My 2g is auto but I don't use the antilag, I use it only on my manual 1g. My honest opinion is nitrous would probably be the way to go. (I know you mentioned not to tell you that 😄)
@1990TSIAWDTALON Marty, I know you have a similar setup with a shift box. Do you have any suggestion?
So I just tried less timing and more fuel and the the other way around. Also tried a few other things as far as timing, fuel, and rpm. I actually cant build more than 2 now. Its like it made it worse. Do you have a shift box? Do you see a reason to do this image. Mine is wired the forced four way. I might try and post on the dsmlink forum. I dont go on there much. I can confirm timing does change now in my logs.

I dont want to go the nitrous route yet. Some classes wont allow it. Plus Its a decent amount of work to install and tune. This is much easier for me to learn as I go.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
If it were me, I would log the stall up attempt, then load those 4 timing cell boxes to -10 to -12* and see if you can get more boost.
Since I am having fueling issues, I can't just go out and try what I am telling you but I do have a log somewhere that is called Stallup Tune and I loaded up all the surrounding timing boxes to -10*. I never got a chance to test it correctly but I will. You should give it a shot. Go do a stall up (don't stand on it more than 10 seconds max, log it then change the area of timing that it is in to a very negative number) I just use -10 but it might like -8 or -12, depends on the motor and converter.
Just my 2 cents. Wish mine would fuel up, I'd just go out and do it myself. (But if it'd fuel up, I'd have the NOS going)
I've been watching the thread. :)
Marty
 
So I just tried less timing and more fuel and the the other way around. Also tried a few other things as far as timing, fuel, and rpm. I actually cant build more than 2 now. Its like it made it worse. Do you have a shift box? Do you see a reason to do this image. Mine is wired the forced four way. I might try and post on the dsmlink forum. I dont go on there much. I can confirm timing does change now in my logs.

I dont want to go the nitrous route yet. Some classes wont allow it. Plus Its a decent amount of work to install and tune. This is much easier for me to learn as I go.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
To raise RPM would affect but add more fuel wouldn't affect much.
As I understood that the wiring in the pic is to activate No Lift To Shift feature by e-brake switch instead of clutch switch. Personally I don't have experience with that in ECMLink on my 2g, but at launch, it would give you fuel cut to help building boost while you are pulling e-brake besides extra braking power. then you can combine ignition retard by antilag and fuel cut at the same time. (ECMLink is fuel cut, not ignition cut).
You can have similar effect by setting launch limit RPM close to the antilag rpm or vice versa, you should try it. I have had better result by setting the antilag RPM about 100RPM lower than launch limit RPM.

If it were me, I would log the stall up attempt, then load those 4 timing cell boxes to -10 to -12* and see if you can get more boost.
Since I am having fueling issues, I can't just go out and try what I am telling you but I do have a log somewhere that is called Stallup Tune and I loaded up all the surrounding timing boxes to -10*. I never got a chance to test it correctly but I will. You should give it a shot. Go do a stall up (don't stand on it more than 10 seconds max, log it then change the area of timing that it is in to a very negative number) I just use 10 but it might like 8 or 12, depends on the motor and converter.
Just my 2 cents. Wish mine would fuel up, I'd just go out and do it myself.
I've been watching the thread. :)
Marty
Thank you for the input, Marty!
 
If it were me, I would log the stall up attempt, then load those 4 timing cell boxes to -10 to -12* and see if you can get more boost. I do have a log somewhere that is called Stallup Tune and I loaded up all the surrounding timing boxes to -10*. I never got a chance to test it correctly but I will. You should give it a shot. Go do a stall up (don't stand on it more than 10 seconds max, log it then change the area of timing that it is in to a very negative number) I just use -10 but it might like -8 or -12, depends on the motor and converter.
Just my 2 cents. Wish mine would fuel up, I'd just go out and do it myself. (But if it'd fuel up, I'd have the NOS going)
I've been watching the thread. :)
Marty
So that is something that I'm confused with. Are you able to upload the stall up log or screenshot. I dont know what a stall up looks like in the log (learning as I go). All i know is while on the brake and in 1st or 2nd, it wont rev past 3k and little to no boost. I have tried 10 and 5 on the Als tab with no resolve. You saying to track the log and in those cells change it to that?

Also on the forced four, are using stall up in the output tab?
To raise RPM would affect but add more fuel wouldn't affect much.
As I understood that the wiring in the pic is to activate No Lift To Shift feature by e-brake switch instead of clutch switch. Personally I don't have experience with that in ECMLink on my 2g, but at launch, it would give you fuel cut to help building boost while you are pulling e-brake besides extra braking power. then you can combine ignition retard by antilag and fuel cut at the same time. (ECMLink is fuel cut, not ignition cut).
You can have similar effect by setting launch limit RPM close to the antilag rpm or vice versa, you should try it. I have had better result by setting the antilag RPM about 100RPM lower than launch limit RPM.


Thank you for the input, Marty!
I will try adjusting the als and launch rpm and see what happens. Is that wiring the ebrake or foot brake?

I will post another log tomorrow. Marty and I go back and forth pretty often. We have almost identical setups.
 
I haven't tried the forced four stall up but do know someone that tried it. It puts the trans in 2nd until you let off the brake and then shifts to 1st for launch.
I cant show a picture of the log but you are right on with how you are explaining it back.
You do a test launch and log. Go to the log and see where the cars timing is at during that then change those timing boxes. I'm not a "tuner" I'm an engine builder but I can make my way around tuning for my purposes. Retard timing during stall up. Do you run a ARC2 box? It has -10* built in retard with th purple wire I believe.
My car has a near stock converter and I can't build more than about 3lbs but didn't get to test my stall up tune. I had just started playing with it when gremlins crept into the works.
 
I will try adjusting the als and launch rpm and see what happens. Is that wiring the ebrake or foot brake?

I will post another log tomorrow. Marty and I go back and forth pretty often. We have almost identical setups.
Sorry for the confusion, I didn't see it very well and I was thinking to activate it by e-brake switch like drifting guys and mixed up in my head. The diagram in the pic you uploaded should be with foot brake switch. But the idea is the same.
 
Last edited:
I cant show a picture of the log but you are right on with how you are explaining it back.
You do a test launch and log. Go to the log and see where the cars timing is at during that then change those timing boxes. I'm not a "tuner" I'm an engine builder but I can make my way around tuning for my purposes. Retard timing during stall up. Do you run a ARC2 box?
My car has a near stock converter and I can't build more than about 3lbs but didn't get to test my stall up tune. I had just started playing with it when gremlins crept into the works.
So I'm adjusting timing on the DA table and not the sliders correct? So set rpm, timing, then fuel in that order? Also fuel gets adjusted on the als tab till afrs match. For timing I'm only adjusting the the 2-4 boxes right. I'm not making the the table smooth around the boxes. I don't have a arc2. I don't really plan on changing the cars setup much until winter. Even then, I want to stay on this setup until the stock system cant work with it.
Sorry for the confusion, I didn't see it very well and I was thinking to activate it by e-brake switch like drifting guys and mixed up in my head. The diagram in the pic you uploaded should be with foot brake switch. But the idea is the same.
So im not very good with wiring. Very basic just like the instructions above. So since I already have a relay for my brake switch for the tcu, can I still use the brake switch for a second relay for a different purpose? I thought since I already use the brake switch on something, it becomes unavailable for others.
As I understood that the wiring in the pic is to activate No Lift To Shift feature by e-brake switch instead of clutch switch. Personally I don't have experience with that in ECMLink on my 2g, but at launch, it would give you fuel cut to help building boost while you are pulling e-brake besides extra braking power. then you can combine ignition retard by antilag and fuel cut at the same time. (ECMLink is fuel cut, not ignition cut).
You can have similar effect by setting launch limit RPM close to the antilag rpm or vice versa, you should try it. I have had better result by setting the antilag RPM about 100RPM lower than launch limit RPM.


Thank you for the input, Marty!
I can try and wire a second relay to the brake switch. Ill try and adjust the launch rpm and als rpm 100 apart. Hopefully I can do that tomorrow. Not sure If I should do that before I try other things? Can I just make a T that goes on the current relay or should I give it another relay?

Thanks for the help so far guys.
 
I attached logs of ALS testing after doing the brake switch wiring. 2 logs are with timing change and 2 are without timing change. Not sure if doing the brake wiring helped or not. But I was able to gain 10 psi. I also changed launch limit and als rpm to close to each other. Not sure if that was the solution or not either.

Could I raise the launch rpm and als rpm to around 4k, would that help build boost quicker or help in anyway? I didnt change timing values to the same. I just gave the 4 a few down clicks.
Also, what are the next steps for me? Not sure where to go from here.
 

Attachments

  • Als test CS 1st gear timing.elg
    18.6 KB · Views: 19
  • als test after timing CS.elg
    18.6 KB · Views: 20
  • als test clutch sw 2 8psi.elg
    19.2 KB · Views: 18
  • als with clutch sw.elg
    16.2 KB · Views: 19
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top