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2G Help with a modular cooling setup or EWP

jpmxrider489

Supporting VIP
2,347
104
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
My water pump is going out I believe. Coolant temp goes down while revving the motor and I hear a slight whine as well. So I have been thinking about going electric. Was wondering thoughts on this. The car isnt a daily but is driven on nicer days. I have a -16 hose setup on a chase bays rad. The car doesnt over heat driving around at all. I see 185 no matter what. At idle, it does get hot. I am upgrading fans as we speak. What are the pros of running a electric water pump on a street setup?

Second, would it be beneficial to delete the thermostat and run a frontline fab delete plate with the bung for the coolant temp sensor? I dont care about how long the car takes to warm up.

Honestly, I have no real reason to do either other than maybe it would be done on the future. I am more curious about people's thoughts. I do not have a heater core or fiav. I just want the most versatile/simple setup. I know about other water pipe/thermostat options. I just want info about the thermostats delete and ewp.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,525
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Cons are its more work over factory and more wire work for the fans to the unit (depends which brand you go with)

Pros are everything! I picked up a DC 150 units on the basis that the ultima guys who race never ever have any issues anymore once they install these! They cool when you turn the engine off and stop hot spots alot better.

16an is fine but it is advised to be on the smaller side since our system is based near the 20an size which is what i opted to work with.

Currently dont have mine installed since im waiting till i can tube the front end and made my new rad and intercooler towards the end of the year. If yoir on FB Chris vasques has just installed his and he got his because i said it was a good way to go so he did it all already. Check his video out on it as he can tell you now everything vs me where im currently taking my advice from the race team down the road LOL

Getting the frontline covers is a good idea, and if going EWP then you 100% need to ditch your stat as its not needed. The DC unit comes with a temp sensor which tells the unit to switch on at your pre selected temp
 

spyderdrifter

Supporting Member
5,164
670
Jul 11, 2009
Some where in, Colorado

jpmxrider489

Supporting VIP
2,347
104
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Cons are its more work over factory and more wire work for the fans to the unit (depends which brand you go with)

Pros are everything! I picked up a DC 150 units on the basis that the ultima guys who race never ever have any issues anymore once they install these! They cool when you turn the engine off and stop hot spots alot better.

16an is fine but it is advised to be on the smaller side since our system is based near the 20an size which is what i opted to work with.

Currently dont have mine installed since im waiting till i can tube the front end and made my new rad and intercooler towards the end of the year. If yoir on FB Chris vasques has just installed his and he got his because i said it was a good way to go so he did it all already. Check his video out on it as he can tell you now everything vs me where im currently taking my advice from the race team down the road LOL

Getting the frontline covers is a good idea, and if going EWP then you 100% need to ditch your stat as its not needed. The DC unit comes with a temp sensor which tells the unit to switch on at your pre selected temp

The DC 150 comes with the temp sensor? If all the tstat does is warm up the car and has nothing to do with cooling after the car is up to operating temp, I can remove the tstat even without going with a electric pump?
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,525
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
The DC 150 comes with the temp sensor? If all the tstat does is warm up the car and has nothing to do with cooling after the car is up to operating temp, I can remove the tstat even without going with a electric pump?
It does if you get the kit version.

As for the stat removal its not that simple, the ewp does not spin so it heats up and does not cool till it gets to the selected level.

If you remove the stat your going to cool straight away as the engine spins the pump and then you wont have any heat gain. I believe their is an idea people used to do and thats drill a hole in the top of the stat so it flows through it but also has some restriction to build heat up
 

zedicus

Proven Member
469
70
Aug 4, 2011
Garden city, Kansas
i JUST got done doing a davies craig install on a toyota. it was a small pump EWP80L and the previous generation DC8907 EWP controller. on MOST cars the thermostat controls rather coolant goes through the radiator or bypasses the radiator (there are other systems but this is most common and in use on DSMs, and my toyota.) the EWP and digital controller pulse the pump and low temp to help engine warm up, and the pump only runs at full capacity when a set temperature is reached. what you need to do is do away with the bypass loop from the old system, and do away with the thermostat, the controller and EWP make that loop and bypass unnecessary. (and if you leave the bypass loop in place you may cause overheating as not all coolant will go through the rad.

option 2: make sure you flow match the EWP and leave the thermostat in place as factory. too much head pressure is bad for an EWP but otherwise the coolant system does not have to be significantly altered to run one. (the drilling a whole in the thermostat is to help with head pressure if the pump is oversized too much)

the toyota i put the EWP on is a 1.5L engine and it only took the 80L pump to keep it cool even on a 100+ degree kansas day. and i am running a 13:4.1 compression engine on pump gas with no overheating. i did the option 1 install with no thermostat housing at all, and totally removed the old bypass circuit. the EWP pulses most of the time, i did get the EWP turn on continuous for a little while the other day with the air-conditioner running and it being 102 outside. and like i said, high compression engine (not a geustimate, it is measured 13.4:1 physical comp)
 

jpmxrider489

Supporting VIP
2,347
104
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I would suggest getting something like this, and getting an inline water pump, if such a thing is available:
https://stmtuned.com/collections/1g...ter-pump-block-off-plate?variant=537239224329

It does if you get the kit version.

As for the stat removal its not that simple, the ewp does not spin so it heats up and does not cool till it gets to the selected level.

If you remove the stat your going to cool straight away as the engine spins the pump and then you wont have any heat gain. I believe their is an idea people used to do and thats drill a hole in the top of the stat so it flows through it but also has some restriction to build heat up

I wanted to update this thread with some ideas I had. Wanted some thoughts on this. I attached some link for things that I am talking about. Not sure if it would be more cost effective to go this route or the EWP route. I currently have a chase bays rad with 16an ports. Trying to create a modular cooling system. Unfortunaly, there isn't many people talking about this. I was thinking about getting the Frontline head adapter with the sensor ports to run the OEM sensor and my AEM sensor. Then I was going to attach the chase bays filler neck to it with a bulkhead/union. Then after that, with another bulkhead, attach the inline thermostat. I already have a 6bolt water pipe with a 16an welded on. I also don't have the capability to weld aluminum.

I also saw some products from Moroso that I might be able to adapt to make work. But the goal is to have a setup that can be driven on the weekends and the track.

The modularity of it is important. I want the ability to cool both wastegates and a turbo. I currently feed both gates with a -6 to a -4 T and then returning to the water pipe with the same method. I am looking for a method that would allow me to plug ports that I don't need and use them if need be. I'm worried if I go with a EWP the modularity wont be there.

Im hoping some people can provide thoughts on my goals here.

 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,525
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
I wanted to update this thread with some ideas I had. Wanted some thoughts on this. I attached some link for things that I am talking about. Not sure if it would be more cost effective to go this route or the EWP route. I currently have a chase bays rad with 16an ports. Trying to create a modular cooling system. Unfortunaly, there isn't many people talking about this. I was thinking about getting the Frontline head adapter with the sensor ports to run the OEM sensor and my AEM sensor. Then I was going to attach the chase bays filler neck to it with a bulkhead/union. Then after that, with another bulkhead, attach the inline thermostat. I already have a 6bolt water pipe with a 16an welded on. I also don't have the capability to weld aluminum.

I also saw some products from Moroso that I might be able to adapt to make work. But the goal is to have a setup that can be driven on the weekends and the track.

The modularity of it is important. I want the ability to cool both wastegates and a turbo. I currently feed both gates with a -6 to a -4 T and then returning to the water pipe with the same method. I am looking for a method that would allow me to plug ports that I don't need and use them if need be. I'm worried if I go with a EWP the modularity wont be there.

Im hoping some people can provide thoughts on my goals here.

You do not want a thermostat at all on the EWP. That defeats the object of going ewp. It pulses itself to regulate its temps so adding a stat wont be helpful in anyway.

If you need take offs for turbo and WG then that had to be done after the head (note that i still kept my heater core working so it feeds from the modified frontline head adaptor and comes back into the rad onnthe low pressure side) you can do the same here. So your feeds will be after the head and return back into the rad or just before the pump onnthe suction side of it !!! Not on the pushing side of it.

Keep it basic and simple is the key. While i went a little further then most its not for no reason,
Adding all these aftermarket parts takes alot of room and with multiple 16AN fittings your talking about you will run out of room fast, bare in mind 16AN will run hotter as its smaller then oem hose is! As you know i was going to run 20AN but even then space was tight and silicone hose is far cheaper and also easier to work with! AN does look nicer i agree.

You could also buy a distribution block thinking about it from the head (high pressure side) and then open it up as and when you need to run a line to something but also keep in mind the same needs to apply for the return so maybe 2 distribution blocks. 1 out = 1 in
 
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