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2G Help Selecting Brake Upgrade

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yellowkyd278

15+ Year Contributor
124
0
Sep 28, 2004
Los Angeles, California
I'm trying to find how deep I need to go in brake upgrades for my applications. I drive a 2.4 evo16g making the usual 330 - 370 whp (dynojet)... maybe a bit more but you get the idea.

The car is primarily a daily driver seeing -- 85% of it's life is on the roads. I auto-x occasionally but by no means do it competitively. A majority of the other 15% is spent on open track days. I usually go about once a month -- sometimes 2 -- but usually once.

So do I:

1. Just get a set of good pads (R4-S, R4-E, R4)
2. Add a pair of front rotors too (powerslot, stoptech) to the pads
3. Get a $500 - $700 front brake kit (stage-2 stoptech, baer, powerslot)
4. Get a Wilwood front kit from TCE (13.0" dia x 1.10 or 1.25") for $1400
5. Go all out and get the stoptech big brake kit for $1900
6. There's a deal for a pair of Wilwood 4 piston Aluminum calipers w/ race pads from TCE (12.2" dia x 1.25" 2 piece aluminum hat safety wired rotors) $600

From what I'm reading changing the rears aren't a necessity...

Anyhoo, any input or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
 
A. Do NOT get a drilled rotor for open tracking.
B. Use only a RACE pad (preferably matched compounds to start off), front and rear, for open tracking.
C. Some guys (GreenGSX) are using SS lines/race pads/cooling ducts/stock 2pot brakes, with good results.
D. Others (Slow Old Poop) break 1.1" x 13" rotors like changing socks.
E. The track you are running, and your driving style determine what will really work.
F. I tend to like to err on the side of WAY too much brake, therefore...

I like your option # 4 if $$ isn't tight, or #6 looks like a SMOKING deal. Todd's (TCE) kits and customer service are awesome too.
 
i'd go for #6. i know the set you're talking about, the guy seems legit i was talking to him about them as well.
 
I purchased a pair of drilled & slotted TPM rotors, why shouldn't I use them? Because they weren't cheap!

Under open track situations, drilled rotors have a greater chance of cracking around the holes. Doesn't always happen, it's just that non-drilled ones don't have holes to crack around.

I've never heard of Hawk greens, are they new?

JFZERO, are you talking abuot the JDM Galant spindle/EVO VIII caliper swap? That setup is sweet. :cool:
 
Yeah, he's talking about the JDM Galant knuckles / evo8 switcheroo.

Anyhoo, any more suggestions? List is on first post

Andrew

Under open track situations, drilled rotors have a greater chance of cracking around the holes. Doesn't always happen, it's just that non-drilled ones don't have holes to crack around.

I've never heard of Hawk greens, are they new?

JFZERO, are you talking abuot the JDM Galant spindle/EVO VIII caliper swap? That setup is sweet. :cool:
 
Under open track situations, drilled rotors have a greater chance of cracking around the holes. Doesn't always happen, it's just that non-drilled ones don't have holes to crack around.

I've never heard of Hawk greens, are they new?

JFZERO, are you talking abuot the JDM Galant spindle/EVO VIII caliper swap? That setup is sweet. :cool:

Yeah, he's talking about the JDM Galant knuckles / evo8 switcheroo.

Anyhoo, any more suggestions? List is on first post

Andrew
 
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