ECMlink Help - Is it possible to get a ECMLink tune from parts list thats close enogh to run the car to get it tuned?

[ctrenks]

Does not look good , did the open air reset and now goes right to flashing 7.5, at least we know its not lean!

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[ctrenks]

First, are you capturing those values?
Second, are you displaying those values?
If either values are only on the left side, they need to be moved to the right side by selecting it and clicking the button to move to the right side.

I have the item listed in pin setting, I do not see them in the F9 list, only the LC1 O2, no speed density items appear to add

Cleaned up the WB O2, it actually read 13 / 14 for a sec then when back to 22.4, then flashed to .4 with the red light blinking on the LC2 controller, new O2 arrives tomorrow

 

[ctrenks]

Ok I figured it out an added the other values. WB id a definite issue still though.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Great post to follow.

 

[ctrenks]

New o2 and real numbers, she is rich even with -16% trims

 

[AWD-Tony]

Log and display ISCposition, battery voltage, VE & LTFT
Lower the highlighted values to get Airflowperrev down to .25-.28. This will pull fuel at idle.

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[steve]

About 41 seconds in, the coolant temp hits 86F and the ECU tries to enter closed loop. It starts adding fuel to get the O2 sensor to switch.

About 45 secs, it starts pulling fuel for the same reason and maxes out CombinedFT @ -16.8% without getting the sensor to switch. The injectors are humming along at just under 2ms while the WB says your rich @ 13.1:1 (I don't see a min injector PW setting in this log)

About 172.5 seconds in, the ECU gives up trying to make closed loop work and you see the CombinedFT jump to adding 5.1% fuel again while your AFR goes to almost 12:1 and your O2 is pretty much pinned at 0.96v. Hitting the throttle at 259 seconds doesn't get the O2 to move.

About 283 secs, it looks like you start having misfires, back off the throttle, and the O2 wakes up causing the ECU to try going into closed loop again. Because you closed the throttle while the RPMs were high the ECU cuts the injectors off and the WB finally hits the lean side, the O2 switches but then goes high again and sticks there while the ECU pulls fuel again back down to -16.8.

Next signs of life is about 352 secs in where you again close the throttle and get the injectors to cut off.

Have you checked your idle vacuum with a gauge? The Omni says its low at idle which might just be cams but should be verified.

I'd try changing the injector global (larger -%) to see if you can get it to idle and stay in closed loop. (lets see if you can pull some fuel out or if your hitting a min pulse width at idle)

Try letting the fans work normal rather than on full time to see if the car will heat up faster. In that log it never went high enough to start changing the long term trims.

 

[ctrenks]

I added the values, also lowered the MAP Comps on the RPS by the 16% its showing its reducing but did not seem to have any effect at all?

 

[AWD-Tony]

You're on Speed Denisty so no need to use the MAF slider. Zero out the MAF slider and lower the highlighted values. Try 50 in these cells. Also, with the car fully warmed up, adjust the BISS SLOWLY to get iscposition to 30 while radiator fan is off. You have a random misfire code. Clear that and see if that returns.

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[ctrenks]

Cleared the misfire code and it has not returned, I threw new NGK wires on it when i brought it home as i could hear it ark, Ill adjust the BISS tomoorrow, is in or out increse the value, i assume out allows more flow

 

[AWD-Tony]

Cleared the misfire code and it has not returned, I threw new NGK wires on it when i brought it home as i could hear it ark, Ill adjust the BISS tomoorrow, is in or out increse the value, i assume out allows more flow

I believe so. You’ll see the change right away so it’s not a big deal if you go the wrong way at first. Just make sure all accessories are off including the fan on final check.

You’re getting it dyno tuned correct?

 

[ctrenks]

yeah it goes to the dyno Sept 6th so i want it as close as i can before then

still hearing a snapping soind like an arc actually either from the injectors or the wires hard to tell, ran in the dark and didnt see any visual arc. BISS i started all the wat in and two turns out, was about 11, turned a little to get to 22 but then after some time it fluxuated between 8--12?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Did you do a blt?

 

[ctrenks]

No I have not, I should before I get too deep into trying to tune this, have to get some equipment, should also replace all vacuum lines

Yes getting a blt is very important otherwise your running in circles.

Also question as the coil pack was moved under the intake and requires longer wires, anyone know a wire set from NGK that has the same plug end but are longer? I have one wire that is too short on the new set

Ordered all new hose kit, and boost leak tester, will get this all cleaned up and get going again

 

[ctrenks]

Identified 2 boost leaks and a PCV valve that wont hold over 5psi so going to address that soon.
25psi to 4psi takes about 8 seconds to drop and I see its leaking on the intake to fuel pressure regulator and the P port on the throttle body that leads to my boost control or gauge

 

[chrisman287]

Nice to see you getting it sorted out