2G Help! Interior Lights, Washer Fluid / SRS Dash Light Stay On

[javier347]

I purchased Ohm Racing Fusebox and Engine harness a couple years ago, I am just now installing these after the car being down for several years.

The problem I am having is that when I connect the battery the interior lights remain on, the SRS and the windshield light all stay on. Now its been 8 years since I have used this car but I also noticed that with out the key being in the ignition I am able to bring the windows up/down and don't think it should work this way. Also noticed that none of the other dash light come on when turning the key to the on position.

I have made sure that the ignition switch is good, I did this by validating that the blower only works when the key is set to the on position, when I turn they key off the Greddy Turbo Timer runs its clock down and the blower stops working. I also turn the key to the on position and made sure the blower was working followed by disconnecting the ignition switch which resulted in the blower turning off.

I have checked all the connections at the driver fusebox and made sure all the fuses are good, I disconnected the light door switches to rule that out. I am really not sure what else I can check here, would def appreciate your guys input on what else I can possibly do to get this sorted out.

One last thing, the car is a 96 and when purchasing a new fusebox from OHM racing you are supposed to send them your original fusebox. I noticed I did not send the original one but instead sent them a spare one that I had for a 97 gsx instead. Not sure if this would be an issue but wanted to point that out since this was my mistake if it turns out to be an issue.

Thank you

 

[chrysler kid]

I mean you might want to start by emailing ohm racing

 

[luv2rallye]

I mean you might want to start by emailing ohm racing

Yes that's the best idea. Ask if a 97 fusebox will work in a 96. It's well known the 95-96 (2ga) is different than the 97-99 (2gb). As far as the power windows always working, check if my mod was done (https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/power-window-operation-without-key-for-2g.274267/).

 

[javier347]

Yes that's the best idea. Ask if a 97 fusebox will work in a 96. It's well known the 95-96 (2ga) is different than the 97-99 (2gb). As far as the power windows always working, check if my mod was done (https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/power-window-operation-without-key-for-2g.274267/).

I did reach out to them, waiting to hear back from them.

Your mod was not implemented the relay is still there, I did try to connect to the ECU for the 1st time in years and was able to but I was able to do so without and with the key. Don't think it should work that way but again its been quite some time since I been in the game.

 

[luv2rallye]

Without my mod (or the windows relay being stuck on) they should only work with the key to ON. The engine ECU has nothing to do with it. The ETACS-ECU turns the windows relay on (with key ON) so if it was faulty I suppose it could hold the relay on. Try unplugging the window relay to see effect. If they now don't work either the ETACS-ECU was holding the relay on or there may be a short to ground on the relay's blue-yellow wire (which is what the ETACS-ECU does).

 

[chrysler kid]

I know my answer was pretty snide, but in terms of the 2g year variations; the 96 and early 97 cars have the most in common (unless you had a late 97 with a black box ecu)

Late 98 and 99 models had a different evap system, and in 99 they get rid of the weird interior recirculation scroll wheel next to the center vent

Anyways it sounds like the interior ignition harness has a problem. The wires run out of the column and there is accessory 1 and 2 power sources. If the car was an original harness i would say the switch is not correctly installed to the harness or failed internally causing the column harness to function when its not suppose to.

Alot of the diagrams for column wiring can be found in turbo timer installation guides

 

[javier347]

Bringing this back, still waiting to hear back from OHM Racing. Will try them again next week.

I connected my multimeter to the negative terminal to see what fuse is drawing power. I noticed that the ignition and the fuse labeled TOP are the ones drawing power. With both fuse connected the multimeter reads 2.3a, with only the TOP fuse it reads 1.48a and with only the ignition fee it reads 1.25. When I disconnect both of those the multimeter reads .01 which I think is good.

Removed the TOP fuse and left the ignition fuse on, next I disconnected the ignition cable from the ignition switch and did not see any difference with the multimeter. With the ignition cable plugged back and turning the key to the on position I did see more power being drawn. I would think this confirms that the ignition switch is good.

Figured I would disconnect the MPI / Fuel Pump relay along with the power transistor, after doing this the Multimeter now reads .89. I put a light tester to the power transition cable and sure enough is getting power.

Just wanted to provide a small update in case someone has seen this and can point me to next steps etc. I did order a short circuit tester in hopes it can help diagnose this issue and figured this thing out.

Thank you

 

[luv2rallye]

Figured I would disconnect the MPI / Fuel Pump relay along with the power transistor, after doing this the Multimeter now reads .89. I put a light tester to the power transition cable and sure enough is getting power.

With the ignition key on, you will always see voltage at the power transistor's blue/black and black/white wires when the coil is plugged in, because +12v goes through the coil's primary to the power transistor (the power transistor is operated by switching this wire to ground which fires the coil). But if you're seeing voltage when the ignition key is off, suspect a faulty ignition key.

 

[javier347]

With the ignition key on, you will always see voltage at the power transistor's blue/black and black/white wires when the coil is plugged in, because +12v goes through the coil's primary to the power transistor (the power transistor is operated by switching this wire to ground which fires the coil). But if you're seeing voltage when the ignition key is off, suspect a faulty ignition key.

Gary,

Below is a pic of the transistor cable and the ignition plug I am referring to. I am seeing power with the ignition key off and with the ignition plug removed from the ignition.

Below is that I am seeing based on your feedback:

1 - Ignition plug disconnected from Ignition = In this state I am seeing power on the white cable to the far right and on the blue (1) and gray cable (3) from left to right.
2 - With Ignition plug connected to Ignition = Same result as 1
3 - Ignition cable Plug connected and key on the on position = Same result as 1

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[luv2rallye]

You said this is a 96 but not what engine. I'm assuming the 2.0 Mitsu turbo. Many of your previous posts suggest you've overhauled and modded this quite a bit years ago.

Looking at that PT connector, its wires colors don't match either my 96 or 97 manuals. So I'm wondering if that 97 harness you got is incompatible with your 96. If so, anything is possible and you've got a lost cause until you have the correct one (since you can never know what all was changed). 2gb's (97-99) in general have many things different than 2ga's (95-96) so harnesses would likely be different.
My 96 and 97 manuals show the PT wire colors as:
pin 1: blu/blk
pin 2: brn/red
pin 3: blk
pin 4: wht
pin 5: unused
pin 6: blk/wht
pin 7: blk/blu
pin 8: blk/wht

Mitsu engine harnesses 2g:

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[javier347]

You said this is a 96 but not what engine. I'm assuming the 2.0 Mitsu turbo. Many of your previous posts suggest you've overhauled and modded this quite a bit years ago.

Looking at that PT connector, its wires colors don't match either my 96 or 97 manuals. So I'm wondering if that 97 harness you got is incompatible with your 96. If so, anything is possible and you've got a lost cause until you have the correct one (since you can never know what all was changed). 2gb's (97-99) in general have many things different than 2ga's (95-96) so harnesses would likely be different.
My 96 and 97 manuals show the PT wire colors as:
pin 1: blu/blk
pin 2: brn/red
pin 3: blk
pin 4: wht
pin 5: unused
pin 6: blk/wht
pin 7: blk/blu
pin 8: blk/wht

Gary,

You are correct it is a 96 and I am running a 2g 7-bolt with 1g CAS. Car has been down for the last 7 or so years and I am now trying to get it all back together with new fusebox and engine harness from OHM Racing. With that said I had an extra 97 - 99 Fusebox harness that was sent to OHM Racing to build the new one. Not sure if perhaps that has anything to do with the issues I am seeing here. The PT is off of the engine harness which I did not think would make a difference but seeing that you are stating that there is an issue with the colors I will have to reach out to OHM Racing and get some clarification.

I will say that it has been hard trying to get ahold of them to sort this out, hoping I can communicate with them next week.

Thank you

 

[javier347]

Still trying to figure this one out, OHM Racing finally reached out and stated that my issue may be related to the dash wiring which does not make sense since I have not touched the dash and all was working prior to getting the harness. I am waiting on a final confirmation since they did state that a different fusebox should be an issue but not sure if that was a typo on their end. Hoping it is an issue with the fuse box so I can just buy a new one from them and be done with this headache.

 

[javier347]

Still working on this one, I noticed that when I unplug and plug back the 10amp room lamp fuse I hear a relay going off. I traced it to the keyless entry module by the driver side rear quarter panel. I disconnected the module and noticed that the interior lights are now off, I am now also able to toggle on/off the rearview mirror which I was not able to do before. Can this module be the one causing issues with the interior lights staying on at all times? If leave it disconnected what am I losing other than interior lights since they are completely off now even if I open a door and the door switch goes off.

 

[javier347]

Well I am not out the woods yet, even with the keyless module removed the dash lights still remain on. I have tried to reach out to OHM racing many times and they just do not respond back to emails or answer the phone. I am at a point where I rather trash this new fusebox harness and go about buying a stock one since this is the only thing that has changed.

 

[javier347]

I was able to work with OHM-Racing, send them the Fusebox harness which they tested and came back with no issues.
Back to the drawing board, may just have to send this thing to someone so they can figure out this weird ass electrical issue.