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help b4 i switch back to rotarys!!!!!!!!

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Probationary Member
Mar 28, 2003
ok any help on this wil be greatly appricated.i like dsm but i am tired of messing with this all the time,
first off i think i should give a brief mod. list so i can be given advice so here goes...
14b turbo
stock icaftermarket ic pipes
2nd gen ported manifold
turbo xs rfl
non ported o2 housing
550 injectors
250 walbrol f pump
act clutch
s afc
k n filter
ok now i just bought the car about two months ago and ive did the fuel upgrades and the afc. I dont have a clue about data logging but i do have a knock light hooked up to my ecu. so i was trying to go off of that? the car ran like crap before i put the 550 inj. it would always knock at the high end even though i had the afc cranked all the way up.
so i bought the inj. put them in and the fuel pump and it still ran like crap even worse, so i turned the afc way down @ 2k to 4.5k and it got better but i dont know what to do know what should i run for boost 15psi?
what should i set my afc at? Why isnt the ic piping comming from the ic ever cold?i need some advice please thanks
Originally posted by bootyloc
Why isnt the ic piping comming from the ic ever cold?
Because you're not going to have a good enough intercooler to ever get "cold" air back out of it. You're lucky if it pulls out 100°, which would still keep your output over 100°
Are you venting your BOV to the atmosphere?

B/c if you are that might be causing problems also.

I've heard of people being able to hook them up and run the to the atmosphere, but most people don't have such luck.

I would suggest puttin on your stock 1G BOV rerouting the dump to the intake.
An inexpensive and quick troubleshooting tip.

I would check more into venting to the Atmosphere
yea i am venting to atmos i didnt think that would hurt at WOT just run rich in between shifts? or am i wrong my car felt faster when it had no afc and no fuel upgrades.
is it possible that i am running to much boost?
i have a turboxs manuel boost controller and when i close it all the way i still pull like 15 lbs of boost? i dont understand?
is it a waste gate prob? i still have the internal waste gate. all i want is a general idea of what to set timing what to set afc...and what to set boost at?
I forgot to mention this

You should check your injectors and how they are installed. What I mean by this is grab them with two fingers around the plug harness area and wiggle them back and forth, there should not be much wiggle at all, and if there is, the crappy designed gasket/spacer that sits on the shoulder injector that acts as a stabilizer/sealer to the fuel rail most likely needs to be replaced or an alternative part needs to be put into place.

It just so happened I had this same problem with my car.
Car ran like crap, had no power above 3 grand
I couldn’t figure it out, everything that you could think of possibly going wrong with my car was trouble shooted, and I am not joking when I’m saying this, a buddy of mine grabbed that plug I said above and wiggled it, he said that’s real loose, I went to his car, his was kind of loose too but his car ran good. I was upgrading injectors anyways so I unbolted everything and inspected all the parts, threads, spacers.

What I saw was that one of the gaskets was way more plyable and bigger than the other 3. I thought about everything for a few minutes and made some calls to see if I could order some of these things. No luck getting a part # or anything, all that people were carrying were O-ring kits.

My 660 dsr injectors came with upper and lower O rings. No companies that I’ve heard of include this gasket/spacer in their kits but now I think they should include 8 lower Orings and 4 uppers. By the way the RC/DSR injectors have a porely designed upper O ring shoulders, the O ring is very movable in a lot of directions and should only be able to be spun around the diameter and not the sides.

I inspected the gasket/spacer and matched the size up with the stock Lower Orings from my stock injectors. The inside diameter was pretty close, the Oring was a little smaller, and the thickness after you compress the gasket is pretty close to that of the O ring also, so I tried slipping the Oring on the injector all the way to the shoulder. Fit snug, a little tough to get on though.

Since my lower O rings were in good shape I figured, what the hell, I slipped on all my old lower O rings off my stock injectors and put the on the new 660 injectors shoulders.
Retightened all my parts up.
Car ran perfect, no leaks

The injectors are real stable now and do not let any air pass by inside of them. When installing your injectors this way make sure to use either a torque wrench or use a realy long fitting on a socket driver and twist with your fingers to make sure you do not strip the aluminum threads.

I’m going to try and get this on the Vfaq website b/c there may be a lot of people that have this problem.

:thumb: maybe I should pattent this idea:shhh:
Well, first of all, you have no idea what you're doing with the SAFC, no woder your car runs like shit. You SHOULD NOT install a SAFC if you do not know how to use it, or if you have to install it, then just leave it zeroed out until you know what to do. It's not a toy.

First, you NEED to pressure test your whole intake. Build a pressure tester, and hook it up to the turbo outlet, and go to town. Don't ask me how, we've disuccsed it like 47465 times in the past 3 months, you'll figure it out.

Second, you need to zero out your SAFC, or On the low throttle map, set the 1k rpm point to about +5%, the 2k to about +2%, ans the rest to 0%. Leave everything else. You really shouldn't attempt to tune until you have a logger.

The RFL will make the car run crappy any time you are not at WOT, so enjoy.

The knock LED is pretty worthless, and you DEFINATELY cannot use it as a tuning tool.

That o-ring that AWDBurn was talking about could be the sourceof the probelm, but don't bother to replace it until you know it is. If that is leaking, it will show up pretty obvious on a pressure test.

....Kyle T.
14b - 12.8 @ 108
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