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Heater wont turn on....

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candela

20+ Year Contributor
3,589
4
May 10, 2002
Austin, Arizona
I cant seem to figure out whtf is wrong with my car. My heater will not turn on at all. Ive checked all fuses related and physically checked to see if the switches were opening the blower and they are. I tried to get down there with my voltmeter and see what was up but Im retarded with that thing, i dont understand this crap at all. I reall would just like for my heater to work and I dont knwo what the next step is... I cant imagine the blower motor would just go out like that all of a sudden :confused: Anyhow does anyone have any tips or diagnoses steps i could follow to get this bad boy working again? Thanks in advance,


Austin:thumb:
 
I assume that you mean the blowing stopped and if it worked, you'd have heat.... and not that it blows cold air. . . . .
When my air stopped flowing, I rapped the back of the blower motor with a wrench [as a test] and it started again.... for ten minutes, then gave up again. Yes, they do give out all of a sudden... especially after 10 years of use. You can test the voltage by pulling off the connector to the motor and checking with a meter or jerry-rig a 12 volt light bulb with wires to the connector. If it lights, then voltage is there [duh]. ALSO, when you turn the fan speed switch to 'high' you should hear a click from underneath somewhere. It is normal [relay activating] and proves that the circuitry is working.... and probably the motor is spent. It's a shame that you have to replace the motor for $100+, when all that's wrong is that the carbon 'brushes' inside the motor are worn down to nothing... and if you could get them, it would cost you about 6 bucks !!
Let me know what you find.
JOEL
 
Well the blower doesnt turn on at all period. All the relays and switches and fuses work, thats what i was saying earlier. I guess Ill just have to get back donw there with my voltmeter and try again. I got down there before and got no reading from the motor, but I figured something else was wrong cause I didnt think that they just gave out like that.... well thanks guys :thumb:

Austin
 
You wrote "I got down there before and got no reading from the motor". What kind of reading were you trying to get? If measuring the motor itself, and it is disconnected while you were metering it, then you're using a meter that measures resistance [or continuity], right? Anyway... if there is high resistance or open [infinite resistance] then the motor is definitely the problem. I'd still try to measure if 12 volts appears at the plug connector [the one that you just pulled off the motor connector], just to be sure.:cool:
 
Thats the one that I checked. I checked it at the connector whie it was on to see if the motor was getting power, just to be sure that nothign else was the problem...
 
..... And there was power? If yes, then the motor's bad [duh]. What goes wrong in the motor is.... the carbon 'brushes' wear down to nothing. They cost a few bucks, if you could get them, which you can't. What a pisser.... buying a new motor for $100+ when a cheap part goes bad. I did a temporary fix on my motor by going to an alternator rebuilder shop and buying brushes that were ALMOST the same size. They work, but the motor is noisy and the new brushes last only 3 or 4 months...... but it only cost me 5 bucks. My Chrysler dealer said that the motor is discontinued and only current shelf stock is available; when they're gone, they're gone. [That's for a '91.] Local auto stores have a replacement, but it has wires, not a connector, and no rubber mounting ring...... you know - a generic substitute.
Let me know what you get and if you are now blowing !!! :shhh:
 
It looks like about 11 years give or take is the life span of the brushes in the blower motor. I just pulled mine to cleat it while I was trying to get power cable throught the firewall from my new stereo and in the process found that the brushes were about 1/8" thick. I scrounged some 6.5mm x6.5mm x17mm brushes ment for a Bosch tool that I cut down to 10mm long and they seem to work for now. I'll let you know if I manage to find some direct replacements.
I'll need to cut the comm down when I pull it the next time or it will eat brushes.

Steve
 
I turned down the comm as much as I could. It's smooth now but so much metal had to come off that there are gaps between the sections. I can't do anything about that, and I'm sure that's why my 'almost the right size' brushes eat themselves away so quickly. Come the spring, I'll spring [arf-arf-arf] for a new motor.
If you DO find an exact brush replacement, please let me know.
Thanks,
JOEL
 
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