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Head Stuck...Need Some Help.

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Put it on a piece of wood, this will allow you to fully penetrate your head (dirty thoughts, LOL) Since you are only going one MM larger you should be just fine as far as alignment goes. Oh be super careful to keep metal shavings out of your camshafts and valves, ect. Better yet would be to dissassemble the head and do it. I know that in some cases I have used a healthy dab of grease to keep metal shavings at bay :thumb: congrats on getting ## head off bty!
 
Put it on a piece of wood, this will allow you to fully penetrate your head (dirty thoughts, LOL) Since you are only going one MM larger you should be just fine as far as alignment goes. Oh be super careful to keep metal shavings out of your camshafts and valves, ect. Better yet would be to dissassemble the head and do it. I know that in some cases I have used a healthy dab of grease to keep metal shavings at bay :thumb: congrats on getting ## head off bty!

Thanks for the tips. I planned on drilling from the mating surface through to the inside of the head, do you suggest going down through the head? I planned on taking everything out of the head but the springs, valves, etc. So your telling me to use a glob of grease to catch the shavings?
 
I would go from the top of the head. Alignment will be better that way. You should just pull the cams and leave the rest alone, you will be able to clean everything out after. Use air and safety glasses for removal.
 
I did this on four different heads last year. Drill from the bottom using a 1/2" drill bit. Either have someone turn a vacuum on and hold it above the holes you are going to drill or use some type of grease to make it sticky in there. I think we drilled out all 10 holes on the last head a few weeks ago on my mirage and it took us 5 minutes. 5 minutes to drill and clean. The 1/2" bit is just a little bit larger and is all you need.

Steven
 
Yes, you could use a glob of grease to catch the shavings. As far as which end to start at, I personally would start from the top and go through the bottom. Then get a countersink to use on each hole in the bottom to ensure you don't create any high spots.

Have you check to see if the old bolts fit in the head just fine? Because it does sound like you got the ol' switcharoo
 
Yes, you could use a glob of grease to catch the shavings. As far as which end to start at, I personally would start from the top and go through the bottom. Then get a countersink to use on each hole in the bottom to ensure you don't create any high spots.

Have you check to see if the old bolts fit in the head just fine? Because it does sound like you got the ol' switcharoo

No I haven't checked to see if the stock bolts fit, I will though. What would be the point of switching the heads? The guy didn't seem like he did much work on import heads, his whole shop was filled with big blocks, small blocks, etc. I will def. check though, thanks.
 
I grabbed one of the stock head bolts, and something weird happened once again! Of the two holes that the arp studs don't fit through, the head bolt fits through one of them really tight and the other it gets stuck in. I didn't try every head bolt, but I cant see them being any different. I am REALLY confused as to why this is? I cant see why the shop would switch the heads, makes no sense to me? And it looks exactly like the one we gave him. Any thoughts on this?
 
I would reccomend that when drilling the head bolt holes to use a drill press, to ensure that your newly drilled holes are perpendicular to the head surface. If they end up at too much of an angle you may still have problems fitting the head.
 
I would reccomend that when drilling the head bolt holes to use a drill press, to ensure that your newly drilled holes are perpendicular to the head surface. If they end up at too much of an angle you may still have problems fitting the head.

I thought about that already, but I dont have access to a drill press.
 
Since we're talking goofy, I ran into this problem once. The head had been overheated/boosted so much that the bolt/stud holes oblonged from the stress. Take a close look to see if those holes are actually round.

MB
 
Since we're talking goofy, I ran into this problem once. The head had been overheated/boosted so much that the bolt/stud holes oblonged from the stress. Take a close look to see if those holes are actually round.

MB

Will do, thanks. I highly doubt it though, the car never saw more than 12lbs of boost and didn't overheat. But I'll check.
 
Ok so I drilled out the holes and got the head on. I also got on the turbo/exhaust setup. All I have left is the battery, intercooler pipes, radiator, the valvetrain, set the timing, put the motor mount back in, and hook up some random wires. I ran into one odd problem while bolting the head down though. I never read anything about this before. As I installed the 12point nut on the middle stud on the exhaust side, the nut hit the valve spring towards the passenger side. As I turned the nut down the spring shaved metal off the nut until it passed the spring, it was peeling the metal off the nut like an orange. The nut turned the valve spring while I was tightening it also. Has this ever happened to anyone else? I just cleaned the shavings up and continued on. It didn't do it with any other nuts. Does this mean the valve spring was installed wrong?
 
I finally got the car running. Revised lifters are great, no more ticking! No more leaking head gasket, leaking oil feed line, multiple coolant leaks. She's running like a champ! With the 2g exhaust manifold, 02 housing, and the port work I did on the 14b she spools up way faster and doesn't creep anymore. Tons of work well payed off. Thanks again everyone for your help. My next step is to get the idle corrected, it has been screwed up since I got it.
 
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