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Head Istalled-Have some questions***PIC

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GSXlaunch

15+ Year Contributor
392
0
Sep 3, 2003
TexasUS
I just installed the head on my 91GSX this morning. I am pretty sure everything was at tdc and everything was lined up. How can it be that all the lobes on both cams are exactly in the same position? It just seems weird to me. I am thinking the way the valves are located in the head the intake and exhaust vavles will still open at different times. Is this right or did I do something wrong. Here is the pic...

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/leche1103/vwp?.dir=/1991+GSX&.dnm=cam+lobes.jpg&.view=t

Secondly, assuming everthing is okay thus far, can I manualy turn the crank a few times before starting her up to make sure no valves will hit??? or is there an easier way to ensure I will not bend any valves? I used arp head studs and torqued them down to 85lbs....thanks for the help in advance.

TT
 
Well took it out again tonight...about 55 degrees and nice. Anyhow drove it about twelve miles. The turbo has never sounded better and is very noticeable. Got on boost a few times and everything was smooth up to about 5800 rpms where I maxed out tonight. Oil pressure was way up...water temp was way low...no missing or hesitating at all...up to 95mph. All that went out the window when I got home. I let it idle for about 2 minutes in the drive way while I looked over everything. Low and behold I found an oil leak; gear oil seems like. It is coming from the front of the drive shaft where it mates with the tranny. The oil was very thick and dark gray and it definitely smelled like gear oil. Please tell me this is not too serious. Can I just pull the drive shaft and replace the seal???? I am driving the car to work tomorrow (24 miles round trip) so hopefully it will be okay.
 
Forget it...it is the seal the resides inside the transfer case dust cover. I can see it pooling inside the cover near the bottom. Oh well more down time. Yippee!

I will do some researching and find what gear oil is best for the transfer case. Thanks
 
That would be nice I guess. However I plan on changing the seal myself this Saturday morning. If that takes care of it which I am sure it will, there will be no need to go thru the hassle with the dealership. What gear oil/additives will I need to change the oil in the transfer case/tranny. I am not sure if I open the drain plug on the t-case if it will drain the tranny as well and the same goes when I go to fill it up. Thanks for all the help. By the way, I had to drive the car to work today and tomorrow as well. My 98 Mazda's tranny is about ready to crap out. Hopefully Autozone or Pepboys carries that shaft seal.

I have one other question. Is it normal for the temperature gauge to read very low on sub 50 degree mornings? All the way to work this morning it read at 1/4 and sometimes fluctuated between 1/8 as well. I also noticed my fans were not kicking in like they were last night after I got on it a few times. Of course I was not driving it hard today just keeping it under zero-low boost and nice easy shifting because of the leak. Thanks again fellas.
 
The guys usually talk about a new Yoke too on that recall - Tranny Fluid is totally seperate from Transfer case fluids - All kind of different opinions on Fluid types & specs - I'd go with whatever someone in your climate reccommends - IMO that's the difference - I would use Synthetic in the rear end & transfer case for sure - tranny fluid opinions differ. Gotta have it up level on 4 Stands for that job. My fans hardly cycle in SC in the Winter so no problem there. It was so cold there your motor was running on the Heater core & never opened the Thermostat - that's cold.
 
Thanks. That is what I needed to know. Shouldn't take too long...so I will set aside all weekend to do it:D .

I am thinking of using Castrol Synthetic gear oil in the rear end, tranny and t-case. I will double check that with the dealership. If I pick up over 50 miles by Saturday I am throwing on my straight thru exhaust and mbc on saturday as well.
 
Pretty much everybody agrees Synthetic is OK for Transfer Case & Rear Ends - including the LSD Diffs.

There are guys that say that Synthetic is bad for the Viscous Couplings in the Tranny.

Then there are guys that say the Tranny Viscous Couplings are sealed so it's OK.

There are guys that say that GL-5 grade lubes are bad for the Tranny Synchros.

Then everything I saw said GL-5 on it till I saw Vavoline Non-Synthetic Multi Grade that at least said GL4 AND GL5 & OK for Limited Slip Diffs on it so I went with that in the TRANNY - I use Synthetic Valvoline in Transfer case & rear Diff - I'm sure there are other options & I don't doubt that there is some truth to ALL the above. No doubt your dealer will have a different opinion - it's like Lawyers - they can't agree on anything...
 
I think I'll try the BG Sync for the tranny and transfer case. For the rear diff I will use full synth 80w 90. This will have to wait until after Christmas since I'd rather spend on others other than this car for a change. Now, with that said...I plan on getting 1 qrt of vavoline full-synth for the transfer case. I only want this to fill it until I can get around to funding the repair to the leak. I just purchased two tires (225-50-16's) for the rear since I had a 50 series tire on the front and 55 series on the rear. I did not want to screw anything up. So I am going to keep a very close eye on the leak from the rear seal and fill with the synth fluid as needed. Where is the fill plug on the transfer case? I am guessing it is on the side but what side and is it possible to fill from above the engine bay area?

On a side note...I tried to launch from 3K and bogged terribly. It was my first real try. I will post this in the proper forum...thanks

TT
 
Look at the pic, this is what it would look like if you were looking at it from the drivers side, with the red arrow being at the front of the car. The purple arrow is the drain plug and the red arrow is the fill plug.
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Side note: My car bogged when I launched below 4000 RPM, try launching at 4500 RPM. This first time I did it, I wet myself
 
Perfecto...thanks again fellas.

After talking with the guy who sold me the car (a good freind of mine) I informed him of the leak. He told me when he put that drive shaft back on it was rusted pretty bad and had some edges that he could not sand off. So now I guess I need the spline or d-shaft coupler as well as the seal. I have no idea what that part of the shaft if called. I will go to the dealership next week sometime to figure it out.
 
Car has been running well...nice and smooth. I have a little over 250 miles on it since the head rebuild. When can I add my mbc, and walbro 255 with the hard wire?? I am hoping to up the boost to 16-17psi (after I add my boost gauge ofcourse)?? I got rocked by a 69 Camaro on the highway last night. He pulled 2-3 cars on me all the way thru third. I want to be ready next we meet up. Thanks

TT
 
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