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2G Have so many questions, 97Eclipse GS-T/Talon TSi

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_Dev_

Probationary Member
15
3
Jan 17, 2022
Spring Hill, Florida
Hey guys so I just got this car about two weeks ago. I love it, it’s got some goodies. I don’t know much about it though. As I’m doing changes myself, I keep running into simple blocks.. My question today is, where can I drain my coolant from? I went to where the stock drain petcock is and it’s not there.. could it be different since I have a Mishimoto Rad and Fan Shroud? The only other thing I can think of to do is disconnect the big rad hose ( I’m guessing) at the bottom under passengers side and drain from there… I don’t have many pictures as of right now but will upload more..

Pic 1, where stock petcock should be..
Pic 2, general Engine Bay.

Any help, greatly appreciated. Thanks All!

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You have to have the radiator cap off, so let it warm up with the cap off. It will ebb and flow for a while then settle down. Keep topping off the coolant until you can't fill it anymore. Squeeze that lower hose to "burp" any air that you can and then put the cap on and drive it. The next time it is cooled off, recheck the fluid level and top it off.
 
In the proper air tight system, if the hose connection to the coolant overflow reservoir is air tight and you have no leaks in the system, coolant will be drawn from the overflow reservoir into the radiator only while the engine is cooling down (many hours until completely cold). That will automatically top off the rad the final amount as the system settles in (during repeated engine heat/cool cycles) filling all engine spaces with coolant. However you still need to top off the rad now and fill the overflow to the correct fill line (not higher). The overflow going down after engine cool off is an indication the engine hasn't filled completely.
 
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In the proper system, if the hose connection to the coolant overflow reservoir is air tight and you have no leaks in the system, coolant will be drawn from the overflow reservoir into the radiator only while the engine is cooling down. That will automatically top off the rad the final amount as the system settles in (during repeated engine heat/cool cycles) filling all engine spaces with coolant. However you still need to top off the rad now and fill the overflow to the correct fill line (not higher). The overflow going down after engine cool off is an indication the engine hasn't filled completely.
Okay, going to do now. Thanks guys. Fingers crossed!

In the proper air tight system, if the hose connection to the coolant overflow reservoir is air tight and you have no leaks in the system, coolant will be drawn from the overflow reservoir into the radiator only while the engine is cooling down (many hours until completely cold). That will automatically top off the rad the final amount as the system settles in (during repeated engine heat/cool cycles) filling all engine spaces with coolant. However you still need to top off the rad now and fill the overflow to the correct fill line (not higher). The overflow going down after engine cool off is an indication the engine hasn't filled completely.
Just to be sure, when I take off the thermo housing, to take out the thermostat, I’ll have to put back in the housing and then purge the system with water right? First from lower going up rad hose and probably do the port on the rad at the bottom and then forward flush by pouring water from hose in through cap and then through top of rad..and then it goes through, then take off housing, replace thermostat, put housing back together, put all connections back on, then fill with coolant? Also any tips to make putting pipe back on?
 
Those are the wrong bolts to pull out the thermostat on a 2G. Unlike a 1G, the 2G thermostat is mounted horizontally, hence the references to the jiggle valve needing to be oriented "up", or towards the top. The bolts you would need to remove are on the side of the housing where the lower radiator hose connects. I tried to mark them in your picture.

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Just to be sure, when I take off the thermo housing, to take out the thermostat, I’ll have to put back in the housing and then purge the system with water right? First from lower going up rad hose and probably do the port on the rad at the bottom and then forward flush by pouring water from hose in through cap and then through top of rad..and then it goes through, then take off housing, replace thermostat, put housing back together, put all connections back on, then fill with coolant? Also any tips to make putting pipe back on?
Correct. Putting it back on will be obvious. Just make sure the gasket or o-ring is on properly. If it's an o-ring just coat it with coolant before putting on. If a gasket, I like to apply light coating of gasket maker to both sides before putting on.
 
Okay so, I did the Coolant change.. weird thing now though, there is a slight idle surge (800-1k.). Not super high but definitely when warmed up does it more.. my temp needle from the dash reaches to about little less than half way.. Not entirely sure what’s up.. any ideas guys? It’s Friday so whatever I’ll have to pick up, I’m down for it.. I’ll try to take a video later when I get home from work.

Okay so, I did the Coolant change.. weird thing now though, there is a slight idle surge (800-1k.). Not super high but definitely when warmed up does it more.. my temp needle from the dash reaches to about little less than half way.. Not entirely sure what’s up.. any ideas guys? It’s Friday so whatever I’ll have to pick up, I’m down for it.. I’ll try to take a video later when I get home from work.
I’m kinda lost guys.. any help greatly appreciated!
 
Do you mean when it get warm it's now surging between 800-1k or is the idle now steady somewhere between 800-1k? If steady I wouldn't worry about it, mine is there too. Any ways it wouldn't be just because you flushed the rad. Temp needle sounds correct.
When I start it, it idles well, but its kind of like when you turn on your fan and your idle goes up.. for me, it got to temp, then it goes and revs itself up a little bit up to 1300 or so, then holds it there for a few seconds then the idle drops back to normal.. but it’s like a cycle.. idles at 750/800 for a little while then revs up to 1300-1500, then keeps it there for a few seconds, then it’s like it cuts the throttle or something maybe and goes back to normal idle. Over and over again.. I’m almost home so I’ll try to get a video..

Do you mean when it get warm it's now surging between 800-1k or is the idle now steady somewhere between 800-1k? If steady I wouldn't worry about it, mine is there too. Any ways it wouldn't be just because you flushed the rad. Temp needle sounds correct.
Oh also found out the car had no thermostat in it…
 
Here's a pic of the 2g turbo thermostat. Stock is 180*F. I like that one year round and put cardboard in front of 1/2 of the radiator in winter so you get heat inside. That way it stays cool in summer and I never have to change the thermostat for winter.

Here's some info on idle surge:
Steve's idle position switch mis-adjusted can be one cause (I've experienced this):
- https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/rpm-problem.445180/#post-153072456
- https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/idle-throttle-body.433552/#post-152950655

And here's more info on idle surge:
- https://www.sixsigmatuning.com/dsm-idle-control
- https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-fix-your-idle-surge-problem.191137/
- http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/tttt/tttt3.html
 
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Here's a pic of the 2g turbo thermostat. Stock is 180*F. I like that one year round and put cardboard in front of 1/2 of the radiator in winter so you get heat inside. That way it stays cool in summer and I never have to change the thermostat for winter.

Here's some info on idle surge:
Steve's idle position switch mis-adjusted can be one cause (I've experienced this):
- https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/rpm-problem.445180/#post-153072456
- https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/idle-throttle-body.433552/#post-152950655

And here's more info on idle surge:
- https://www.sixsigmatuning.com/dsm-idle-control
- https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-fix-your-idle-surge-problem.191137/
- http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/tttt/tttt3.html
Thank you so much.. update: so I flushed the coolant again, ran cleaner through it, purged system with water, filled up with coolant, ran for about 10 min, coolant with cap off, noticed it was slightly frothy, like white and bubbly at the top, also the overflow filled up.. any idea? I thought it was possibly left over cleaner so I drained and refilled again.. idles fine and drives well aside from the fact that I need to tune it because it runs a little rich.. but now, my AEM AFR just stays on Heat and doesn’t tell me my ratio.. not sure why this is.. was fine before.. I appreciate you guys.
 
That could very well be related to your surging. (the AFR not reading). Your ECU looks at that sensor and tells the engine when to cut fuel (when it is rich, and add when it is lean). Retrace every wire for it and make sure it is good, it sounds like a bad connection.
 
That could very well be related to your surging. (the AFR not reading). Your ECU looks at that sensor and tells the engine when to cut fuel (when it is rich, and add when it is lean). Retrace every wire for it and make sure it is good, it sounds like a bad connection.
Thanks bro. So now it doesn’t surge.. keeps the idle steady. It worked this morning for the first drive but after that, when I filled up gas and turned the car back on, it didn’t register as it normally does.. I’ll definitely try to trace the wire back..
 
How I cleaned my reservoir tank was with CLR and hot water. I put a hand full of sockets inside the tank and then submerged it in CLR and hot water from a kettle... The next morning it was like brand new... I hand painted the lettering...
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