2G Have so many questions, 97Eclipse GS-T/Talon TSi

[_Dev_]

Hey guys so I just got this car about two weeks ago. I love it, it’s got some goodies. I don’t know much about it though. As I’m doing changes myself, I keep running into simple blocks.. My question today is, where can I drain my coolant from? I went to where the stock drain petcock is and it’s not there.. could it be different since I have a Mishimoto Rad and Fan Shroud? The only other thing I can think of to do is disconnect the big rad hose ( I’m guessing) at the bottom under passengers side and drain from there… I don’t have many pictures as of right now but will upload more..

Pic 1, where stock petcock should be..
Pic 2, general Engine Bay.

Any help, greatly appreciated. Thanks All!

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[jdxnc]

It looks to be broken off or replaced with an allen plug in pic 1, that's where it would be. Drill it out if need be and install a new one.

 

[luv2rallye]

Or pull the big lower coolant hose which is fine since you don't drain it very often - just let it cool off first so you don't burn yourself.
[If you're running factory setup, I hope you've got that air snorkle tube (for original blowoff bypass) blocked off or you will have unfiltered air as well as no MAF metering.]

 

[_Dev_]

Thanks Guys. So that plug in Pic 1 is a magnetic plug with no way to take it out.. I can definitely remove lower rad hose but I think I may wait till Friday and get some new hoses to replace the old ones.. I think one of the previous owners was running water for coolant, making this a summer Dsm.. I tried to loosen clamp and pull rad hose but it’s stuck on there good.. also reservoir super dirty.. Bright orange inside.. like rust and grit.. Any help greatly appreciated guys.

 

[luv2rallye]

Always run 50/50 antifreeze coolant year round because it protects from corrosion also. Always twist hoses to break them loose while pulling to get them off. Since you plan on replacement you can even cut it off.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Like Gary said, if replacing the hoses (and especially on HEATER HOSES), just slit the hose at the nipple lengthwise to loosen it up and then it should come off much easier. I make sure to do that on the heater hoses so I don't have a leak at the heater core (never fun to replace). Sometimes you need to make a couple slices in the hose to get it to loosen up. Have your drain pan ready and in place!
If your coolant looks as bad as the overflow tank looks, it would be a good time to flush and backflush the system to get as many contaminants out as possible before installing new fluid.

 

[shellhouse]

A little off topic, but it may be good to run timing belt covers, an exh manifold heat shield, fusebox lid, and recirc bov to intake pipe. If the timing belt(s) aren't a good brand, it may also be good to replace those.

It would suck to have something hit the timing belt and cause engine damage.

 

[_Dev_]

Appreciate you guys! Yeah I got the car like this, so a lot of these things are on my list to be able to change/replace. If I were going to reuse the same lower rad hose, can I disconnect, drain, then run water into the system and flush it out that way? I don’t have any special flush or cleaner atm..

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Yep, just do your best with plain ole water. It's all you can do and better than leaving some crud in the cooling system that you can flush out with a water hose (hoping the best for you).

 

[luv2rallye]

I first remove thermostat (and temporarily put thermostat housing back on). Then disconnect both rad hoses at the radiator and use a garden hose to blast water into the lower hose up into the engine until it spurts out the upper hose fitting and up the radiator as well to back flush each. Then forward flush each and repeat this sequence until you see no more crud. It helps remove crud if the engine has been warmed (remove thermostat first while cold). Of course adding a rad system cleaner and running 30 minutes to lossen crud before flushing is the best if you can.

 

[_Dev_]

I first remove thermostat (and temporarily put thermostat housing back on). Then disconnect both rad hoses at the radiator and use a garden hose to blast water into the lower hose up into the engine until it spurts out the upper hose fitting and up the radiator as well to back flush each. Then forward flush each and repeat this sequence until you see no more crud. It helps remove crud if the engine has been warmed (remove thermostat first while cold). Of course adding a rad system cleaner and running 30 minutes before flushing is the best if you can.

So when you say blast water into engine… disconnect upper rad hose from rad, seen in pic 2..
Then disconnect lower rad hose, the take garden hose and blast water through lower hose upward?

So when you say blast water into engine… disconnect upper rad hose from rad, seen in pic 2..
Then disconnect lower rad hose, the take garden hose and blast water through lower hose upward?

Also, forward flush would be just the opposite right? So after that, pour water where my coolant cap is and also try to blast water into reservoir to clean out? All before reattaching either side?

 

[luv2rallye]

Yes. I disconnect upper rad hose from rad also, so crud from the engine (when back flush blasting into lower rad hose) will exit engine at the upper rad hose (to not go back into rad). And then back flushing radiator then forces crud from rad to exit at rad top. I even blast water into the rad top for the forward flush (although just pouring it in is ok too after a back flush). I wrap the garden hose nozzle with rags to help keep a tighter fit into the hose (or rad opening). Note thermostat must be removed for back flushing to work. Back flushing is extremely important as it loosens crud that a forward flush won't.

 

[_Dev_]

Yes. I disconnect upper rad hose from rad also, so crud from the engine (when back flush blasting into lower rad hose) will exit engine at the upper rad hose (to not go back into rad). And then back flushing radiator then forces crud from rad to exit at rad top. I even blast water into the rad top for the forward flush (although just pouring it in is ok too after a back flush). I wrap the garden hose nozzle with rags to help keep a tighter fit into the hose (or rad opening). Note thermostat must be removed for back flushing to work. Back flushing is extremely important as it loosens crud that a forward flush won't.

At the risk of sounding dumb, I took pictures before I do anything… pic 3, those two bolts come out then the thermostat will be there?

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At the risk of sounding dumb, I took pictures before I do anything… pic 3, those two bolts come out then the thermostat will be there?

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Also could I just take out the hose in pic 2 at the top by the cap or should I take out the side by the rad

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

It is probably easier to flush with the hose on the radiator until you change it out and yes those 2 bolts will get you to the thermostat. If you take the hose off at the radiator you will have a better way to "push" water thru the engine with a garden hose tho.
I would take both hoses off at the radiator, that way any crud won't try to flow thru it, that stuff will just come out of the hose and onto the ground or catch tub.

 

[luv2rallye]

Yes those are the bolts. I would disconnect the hose at the rad end so the crud comes out there when back flushing, but either way works.

 

[_Dev_]

It is probably easier to flush with the hose on the radiator until you change it out and yes those 2 bolts will get you to the thermostat. If you take the hose off at the radiator you will have a better way to "push" water thru the engine with a garden hose tho.
I would take both hoses off at the radiator, that way any crud won't try to flow thru it, that stuff will just come out of the hose and onto the ground or catch tub.

Also, would I need a sealant for when I put that thermostat back in and for when I bolt it back down? I don’t have any atm and would hate to mess it up and have to leave it for Friday..

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

A gasket is usually used there but in a pinch you could re-use the old gasket and put silicone on it. Try not to goof it up when you take it off, it will more than likely be brittle.

 

[_Dev_]

A gasket is usually used there but in a pinch you could re-use the old gasket and put silicone on it. Try not to goof it up when you take it off, it will more than likely be brittle.

So I may just go pick up a gasket.. should I get a new thermostat? If so, any recommendations?

 

[luv2rallye]

On my 99 GST there's a rubber gasket or o-ring on the thermostat (comes with it). If not I use Permatex Ultra Blue Gasket Maker. Important: When re-installing thermostat keep the "jiggle valve" up.

 

[_Dev_]

So I may just go pick up a gasket.. should I get a new thermostat? If so, any recommendations?

Also any specific gasket or will the either eagle/eclipse one do..

On my 99 GST there's a rubber gasket or o-ring on the thermostat. If not I use Permatex Ultra Blue Gasket Maker. Important: When re-installing thermostat keep the "jiggle valve" up.

Really stupid here… “jiggle valve”?

 

[luv2rallye]

You'll know it when you remove thermostat - it jiggles. It's purpose is to let a tiny amount of coolant through when it's closed (cold). But it must be up - (not down) so any trapped air will go through.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

After you flush the motor and fill her up, don't forget to "burp" the air out of the upper radiator hose, or keep checking the level until you can no longer fill it. We usually have to get some trapped air out of the system so it will cool effectively.

 

[luv2rallye]

I find squeezing the lower rad hose (with rad cap off) works best for burping after thermostat opens (use rag as hose will be hot).

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Gary is on the ball........

 

[_Dev_]

After you flush the motor and fill her up, don't forget to "burp" the air out of the upper radiator hose, or keep checking the level until you can no longer fill it. We usually have to get some trapped air out of the system so it will cool effectively.

How can I check the level while filling it?